I have a 2007 Sti with cobb stage 2, am getting error code p0018-(Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 2 Sensor A) and plug 2 and 4 misfire. I think its the camshaft sensor on the driver side. How do you get to it, is there a how to? Need Help
Need help p0018 error code
mpistol
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I have a 2007 Sti with cobb stage 2, am getting error code p0018-(Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 2 Sensor A) and plug 2 and 4 misfire. I think its the camshaft sensor on the driver side. How do you get to it, is there a how to? Need Help
Check for my threads, I've been here 
There is a lot to this code and it has several meanings. The sensor is on the front of the car near the cranks. You could have jumped a tooth on the timing belt and it's off balance. It could also just be a dirty sensor, sometimes those blue timing belts leave a fine powder inside the timing belt cover.
There is a lot to this code and it has several meanings. The sensor is on the front of the car near the cranks. You could have jumped a tooth on the timing belt and it's off balance. It could also just be a dirty sensor, sometimes those blue timing belts leave a fine powder inside the timing belt cover.
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The Crank position sensor is on the front of the motor, in the oil pump housing, the cam sensors are on the heads, just above the valve covers. Check, and clean the connections, reset the ECU, and see if it happens again. If the code comes back, take it to a certified mechanic, or if your like me and have lots of spares, start swapping sensors.
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You can also pull the sensors and clean them, sometimes they get gunked up and dont read properly.
Cam sensors are crazy... I worked on a car that kept getting this code. Pulled the motor out and replaced all the AVCS gears. After taking apart the old ones I found a small piece of silicon gasket in the gyro. With that the avcs was off balance causing the timing to advance.
You can imagine how great that was to find.
You can imagine how great that was to find.
I replaced camshaft sensor bank 2 on the left side of the motor, and all four spark plugs. I still get the error code P0018 and the car runs awful. I need to drive it to the shop but its 35 miles away, will it harm the car if I drive it to the shop?
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Did you reset the ECU? And did it change at all when you changed plugs? Is it misfiring at IDle?
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no follow up. i havent had to deal with this but all i can say is follow up on the code and troubleshoot. that is all you can do with this problem until you solve it.
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I have a built MY2010 EJ257 engine in my 08 STi.
I was on "E" today, filled it up at my usual spot and it took 14.3 gallons. Started fine at the pump, drove about one and a half miles home and while in the garage I noticed a very rough idle, the whole car was shaking. I initially thought it was bad gas, but I threw a P0018 (CRANKSHAFT POSITION - CAMSHAFT POSITION CORRELATION (BANK2)).
I did some searching, which lead me to replace the crank shaft sensor with one from my stock engine. I was getting actually ready to replace the cam-shaft sensors as well, but I don't have the tiny hands, dexterity or proper tools to get to those without removing the intake manifold. So I reset the code using the AP and fired it up, still idled like absolute garbage. I shut it down and fired it up again because the service manual says "Detected when two consecutive driving cycles with fault occur," and sure enough the P0018 came back.
Right now the path I'm taking is with the driver side AVCS. I'm going to see if I can take the one off of my spare (stock 08) engine and put it on to see if it helps clear things up. From what I understand an oil passage might be blocked or clogged preventing the AVCS from adjusting timing properly.
This kind of makes sense, because when I monitor sensors with my Cobb Accessport the values on the AVCS sensors are radically different from eachother. They show in degrees, one is 65, and the other is 5.
I was on "E" today, filled it up at my usual spot and it took 14.3 gallons. Started fine at the pump, drove about one and a half miles home and while in the garage I noticed a very rough idle, the whole car was shaking. I initially thought it was bad gas, but I threw a P0018 (CRANKSHAFT POSITION - CAMSHAFT POSITION CORRELATION (BANK2)).
I did some searching, which lead me to replace the crank shaft sensor with one from my stock engine. I was getting actually ready to replace the cam-shaft sensors as well, but I don't have the tiny hands, dexterity or proper tools to get to those without removing the intake manifold. So I reset the code using the AP and fired it up, still idled like absolute garbage. I shut it down and fired it up again because the service manual says "Detected when two consecutive driving cycles with fault occur," and sure enough the P0018 came back.
Right now the path I'm taking is with the driver side AVCS. I'm going to see if I can take the one off of my spare (stock 08) engine and put it on to see if it helps clear things up. From what I understand an oil passage might be blocked or clogged preventing the AVCS from adjusting timing properly.
This kind of makes sense, because when I monitor sensors with my Cobb Accessport the values on the AVCS sensors are radically different from eachother. They show in degrees, one is 65, and the other is 5.
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I wish there was a way to check without removing all the damn belts and covers. >.<
It's weird though... I barely ever beat on the car, and today was no different. I was in "I" mode all day, put about 50-75 miles on it and it was fine until I got home into my garage. It was fine in the morning, it was fine when I started it up and let it come up to temp when I left the office, it seemed fine when I started it up after getting gas. Then I get home and I'm just about to turn it off when I notice the shaking.
I called the gas station where I filled up to let them know of the issue, in case they needed to file some sort of incident report just in case. The lackey that answered the phone didn't really give a damn. Which is what I expected, but I still wanted to call them so I can say I did.
It's weird though... I barely ever beat on the car, and today was no different. I was in "I" mode all day, put about 50-75 miles on it and it was fine until I got home into my garage. It was fine in the morning, it was fine when I started it up and let it come up to temp when I left the office, it seemed fine when I started it up after getting gas. Then I get home and I'm just about to turn it off when I notice the shaking.
I called the gas station where I filled up to let them know of the issue, in case they needed to file some sort of incident report just in case. The lackey that answered the phone didn't really give a damn. Which is what I expected, but I still wanted to call them so I can say I did.
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What I've done so far;
Oh, on the Cobb AP, AVCS Left is the one with crazy numbers. It is showing 50 degrees at idle, where the AVCS Right is showing 0-5.
Next up;
- Check harnesses going to cam shaft sensors.
- Replace cam shaft sensors.
- Check timing marks on all cam gears.
Oh, on the Cobb AP, AVCS Left is the one with crazy numbers. It is showing 50 degrees at idle, where the AVCS Right is showing 0-5.
Next up;
- Check AVCS solenoids and lines for blockage, maybe replace these as well.
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I removed the banjo bolts from both AVCS feed lines (where it says "Engine Oil Pressure") and there were no screens in there at all. I also checked this on my 08 STi engine and they were present their either. I couldn't see any obstructions while looking down the hole where the banjo bolt went.
I suppose I'm going to remove the part labeled as "Oil Control Valve" which has the cylindrical gears attached to it and see if there's anything clogged in there.
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I suppose I'm going to remove the part labeled as "Oil Control Valve" which has the cylindrical gears attached to it and see if there's anything clogged in there.
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OK, I pulled things apart and got the driver side AVCS solenoid off... I can't see anything clogged in there, Hopefully I can get to that plate on the side of the casing that the solenoid goes into, see if anything is wedged in there.
I was curious so I pulled my driver side AVCS solenoid out of my 08 STi engine and found that it was quite different. The one from the 2010 engine is shorter and has one more 'port' on the bottom, where the one from my 08 STi is longer and a bit bulkier.... additionally the 08 seems to have a restrictor (?) on the end, maybe?
I slid the 08 one in the 2010 engine and it fit all the way in, would it be OK to use the 08 to see if this helps clear things up?
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I was curious so I pulled my driver side AVCS solenoid out of my 08 STi engine and found that it was quite different. The one from the 2010 engine is shorter and has one more 'port' on the bottom, where the one from my 08 STi is longer and a bit bulkier.... additionally the 08 seems to have a restrictor (?) on the end, maybe?
I slid the 08 one in the 2010 engine and it fit all the way in, would it be OK to use the 08 to see if this helps clear things up?
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I'm trying to be as clear as possible for these posts. If anyone needs clarification, feel free to ask.
From here on out, I'm considering the following terms synonymous, and will refer to them as OCV's.
I tried feeling around in the passenger side cylinder where the intake cam OCV goes but I couldn't fit my big ass fingers in there, so I took a picture. The holes inside the cylinder line up with the OCV that I pulled from my MY2008 STi engine, the longer ones in the pictures. There are 4 holes on the top, and 2 on the bottom.
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As stated previously...
Both of the intake cam OCVs from the the MY2010 STi engine were identical, they're the shorter ones in the picture.
Both of the intake cam OCVs from my old MY2008 STi engine were identical, they're the longer ones in the picture.
For good measure, I also took out the driver side exhaust cam OCV from my MY2008 STi engine and it appeared to be identical to the intake OCVs from the MY2008 STi engine.
Right now I'm drawing the conclusion that the intake cam OCVs that were in the MY2010 STi engine weren't the correct parts. I am going to try to get to the Subaru dealer to speak to a technician tomorrow if time permits.
From here on out, I'm considering the following terms synonymous, and will refer to them as OCV's.
- Oil Control Valve (OCV)
- AVCS Solenoid
I tried feeling around in the passenger side cylinder where the intake cam OCV goes but I couldn't fit my big ass fingers in there, so I took a picture. The holes inside the cylinder line up with the OCV that I pulled from my MY2008 STi engine, the longer ones in the pictures. There are 4 holes on the top, and 2 on the bottom.
As stated previously...
Both of the intake cam OCVs from the the MY2010 STi engine were identical, they're the shorter ones in the picture.
Both of the intake cam OCVs from my old MY2008 STi engine were identical, they're the longer ones in the picture.
For good measure, I also took out the driver side exhaust cam OCV from my MY2008 STi engine and it appeared to be identical to the intake OCVs from the MY2008 STi engine.
Right now I'm drawing the conclusion that the intake cam OCVs that were in the MY2010 STi engine weren't the correct parts. I am going to try to get to the Subaru dealer to speak to a technician tomorrow if time permits.
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If the problem is the wrong part in the engine, I'll be infinitely perplexed about how this issue showed up out of nowhere after putting a full tank of gas in. It will be one of the biggest coincidences of my car modifying 'career'. On top of that, how the hell has it been running so well for the past few weeks... CONFUSED.
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Did some searching...
Part number 6 in this diagram from OpposedForces.com is called "Valve assembly-oil control" and has a part number of 10921AA080.
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If you search that part number on the internet... you get nothing but pictures and links to the OCV that I have in my 08 STi engine.
Part number 6 in this diagram from OpposedForces.com is called "Valve assembly-oil control" and has a part number of 10921AA080.
If you search that part number on the internet... you get nothing but pictures and links to the OCV that I have in my 08 STi engine.
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The holes on the OCVs from my MY2008 STi engine line up exactly with the holes in the intake AVCS cylinder (top of head) on the MY2010 engine... The holes on the OCVs from the MY2010 STi do not, which leads me to believe the ones that are/were in there weren't correct in the first place. Actually, if you look at the pics you'll see that the holes on the MY2008 STi OCV also line up exactly with the holes on the MY2010 STI OCV. The only differences are the length, which I stated previously that both MY OCVs fit in the AVCS cylinder fine... and that one hole is relocated from the bottom of the MY2010 STi OCV to the top of the MY2008 STI OCV.
Here is another picture for further clarification.
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I went to the dealer after work today, part numbers for the intake cam OCVs on the MY2008 STi engine are identical to part numbers for the intake cam OCVs on the MY2010 STi engine. They brought out Subaru mechanic and we discussed, he also confirmed the intake cam OCVs found in the MY2010 STi engine weren't the correct components.
Now I need to pull the exhaust cam OCV assemblies to make sure those are correct too.
Here is another picture for further clarification.
I went to the dealer after work today, part numbers for the intake cam OCVs on the MY2008 STi engine are identical to part numbers for the intake cam OCVs on the MY2010 STi engine. They brought out Subaru mechanic and we discussed, he also confirmed the intake cam OCVs found in the MY2010 STi engine weren't the correct components.
Now I need to pull the exhaust cam OCV assemblies to make sure those are correct too.
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Alright, I put the proper intake cam OCVs in the MY2010 STi engine (the one in my car), cleared the codes and fired it up. I let it get to temp for about 3-5 minutes, it seemed fine. The other night it did the same, but then after turning it off and back on, I got crap idle again.
So, I turned it off then back on... it idled fine for 2 minutes. I did this three times, on the third I drove a couple miles and came back to see how it would idle in the garage. Still no idle issue, could this be solved?
I'm going to clean up and head out to Sonic in Cat City, where we all go on Thursday, so we'll see how things go.
So, I turned it off then back on... it idled fine for 2 minutes. I did this three times, on the third I drove a couple miles and came back to see how it would idle in the garage. Still no idle issue, could this be solved?
I'm going to clean up and head out to Sonic in Cat City, where we all go on Thursday, so we'll see how things go.
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