IW STi Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Engine removal, GD

Jump to Latest
21 - 40 of 94 Posts
#21 ·
Re: Efficient engine removal method

STi_FTW said:
Yes, it's makes things so much easier getting those off when it's on an engine stand too.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what I was thinking. I'm planning on building a block out of the car and then just swapping everything over to the built block. It would be WAY easier to do with both blocks out of the car side by side.
 
#24 ·
Re: Efficient engine removal method

Is it necessary / easier to remove the transmission? My roommate is going to help me pull my engine when I get a built block and he's convinced the trans has to come out. Can anyone explain (perhaps in detail so I have something to argue with him about) why the trans doesn't need to come out or why it shouldn't?
 
#25 ·
Re: Efficient engine removal method

NaiveRapture said:
Is it necessary / easier to remove the transmission? My roommate is going to help me pull my engine when I get a built block and he's convinced the trans has to come out. Can anyone explain (perhaps in detail so I have something to argue with him about) why the trans doesn't need to come out or why it shouldn't?
Click to expand...
i know with other platforms pulling the motor and trans together is the easier way to do it, but for subaru's i've always seen them pulled separately.

Pull motor alone:
less to disconnect (tranny mount, driveshaft, front axles, speed sensor, more exhaust)

Pull together:
Less alignment to worry about, getting the tranny to line up and mate with the engine when i was dropping my motor in was a *****.

If you end up pulling both, you should post up the additional todo's here and give your option of which is easier.
 
#26 ·
Re: Efficient engine removal method

For me, I was stuck at separating the motor and trans for awhile, and thought about pulling them both. So I searched some more forums and came across a post on one of the sites, it said to find the smallest screwdriver I had and work at the small crack moving from drivers-side to pass.-side increasing the size of the screwdriver as the crack widened to walk the motor apart from the trans. This method worked for me and within about 15 minutes of this process I had the motor out.
 
#27 ·
Re: Efficient engine removal method

1998typesh said:
For me, I was stuck at separating the motor and trans for awhile, and thought about pulling them both. So I searched some more forums and came across a post on one of the sites, it said to find the smallest screwdriver I had and work at the small crack moving from drivers-side to pass.-side increasing the size of the screwdriver as the crack widened to walk the motor apart from the trans. This method worked for me and within about 15 minutes of this process I had the motor out.
Click to expand...
But what about putting the motor back in? I feel like removing the axles/driveshaft and everything from the trans is going to be way more hassle than just trying to line everything up in the engine bay.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Re: Efficient engine removal method

Really no reason to pull the trans when you pull the motor. The only hard part is separating them and on many cars that isn't difficult either. Some it's a pain and the only way is brute force/prying/chisel etc. I tried for more than an hour to get my first hard one apart without doing that and had a friend helping and we just couldn't get it to come apart nicely. We ended up just hammering a really flat scraper looking tool kind of like a really thin chisel in there and then working with it with a prybar. Eventually they came apart. I also gave the guide pins a quick cleanup with a wire brush and greased them when I put it back together to make it easier next time. Honestly I think it's going to be much harder to pull the trans with the engine because you have to move much bigger/heavier stuff around that way. The engine is relatively light and small compared to having the trans with it. I've never tried but it doesn't seem like a good idea. Putting the engine back in is fairly easy too. George's suggestion to put the clutch fork and throwout bearing on before putting the engine in is nice. If you forget, it can still be done after the engine and trans are together, just harder because you can't really see what you're doing very well. We actually didn't think about it and did it the hard way a few times before we learned. Lining up the engine and trans in the engine bay is not as hard as it would seem. You have the hoist holding the engine and a jack to move the trans. Other than that having a couple extra sets of hands is pretty helpful. Much harder by yourself. One thing that I would caution against for a first time is to be careful of the 02 sensor in the headers when you raise/lower the engine into or out of the car. It would be very easy to rub the end of it on the engine bay and ruin the wiring to it.
 
#29 ·
Re: Efficient engine removal method

NaiveRapture said:
But what about putting the motor back in? I feel like removing the axles/driveshaft and everything from the trans is going to be way more hassle than just trying to line everything up in the engine bay.
Click to expand...
For me, that part is yet to be determined. Hopefully I should be able to pick up the engine today after work with the install planned for first thing tomorrow morning. I do expect delays when getting it to seat against the trans.

(background: I had a severe engine noise so I pulled the engine out and took it to a machine shop along with some parts valves,springs,guides,seals to have whatever it was corrected and to improve the performance at the same time. I was not expecting to have to fork out an extra $400 for buckets (mine were the shimless type), but hopefully everything will turn out for the best)
 
#30 · (Edited)
Re: Efficient engine removal method

Now, I've never pulled a Subie engine, so doing this might be easier said than done. But, if it were me, I'd use some ratchet straps around the radiator support or all the way to the crash beam (remove radiator). Just ratchet them down to apply that pulling force and pull it off the tranny.

Just a random thought.

Edit: Back to the OP, I want to make sure I'm understanding this correctly. You put some seatbelts (straps) under the aluminum intake manifold to lift the whole engine? Seems like it might not be strong enough, but as I mentioned I've never done it at all so I don't know exactly how much the engine weighs.
 
#31 ·
Re: Efficient engine removal method

Sabrewings said:
Now, I've never pulled a Subie engine, so doing this might be easier said than done. But, if it were me, I'd use some ratchet straps around the radiator support or all the way to the crash beam (remove radiator). Just ratchet them down to apply that pulling force and pull it off the tranny.

Just a random thought.

Edit: Back to the OP, I want to make sure I'm understanding this correctly. You put some seatbelts (straps) under the aluminum intake manifold to lift the whole engine? Seems like it might not be strong enough, but as I mentioned I've never done it at all so I don't know exactly how much the engine weighs.
Click to expand...
The ratchet strap idea might work. Could be worth a try but it could potentially damage something else too. It might not work too they are on there really tight sometimes.

I would rather lift the engine using the seat belt method than a chain. Many people just bolt the chains to the intake manifold and lift it all out that way. I've done it that way before. I've also just removed the intake manifold and bolted chains to the block. I sort of like that better because it's less likely to damage anything, but it also takes longer. On the wrx's with the plastic manifold we took it off so we didn't damage it.
 
#32 ·
Re: Efficient engine removal method

Well, I believe the straps are strong enough. I was referring to the intake manifold not being strong enough. But if it works it works. :)

Regarding my idea, I would suggest going bottom to top around the back of the engine, over the radiator support, over the crash beam, back under the radiator support, and back to the engine. That part of your car can take a crash, it should be able to pull the engine off the trans.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Re: Efficient engine removal method

Sabrewings said:
Well, I believe the straps are strong enough. I was referring to the intake manifold not being strong enough. But if it works it works. :)

Regarding my idea, I would suggest going bottom to top around the back of the engine, over the radiator support, over the crash beam, back under the radiator support, and back to the engine. That part of your car can take a crash, it should be able to pull the engine off the trans.
Click to expand...
Hey I like your idea to apply a ratcheting strap to the engine to aid in separating the engine from a stubborn tranny. I will have to try that the next time I do my motor... which is in two months :tup:

To answer your question about the seat belt used as a strap. My main reason for using it is A, it is positioned directly over a balanced point on the engine if you use it in the manor I suggest and the engine will remain level during the removal process. B, it prevents damage from a chain if you have painstakingly painted your motor as I have done. :D

A seat belt is significantly stronger than other straps because of it's material and weave. Despite it's strength I still do double up. Here is a link to show you just how much force a seat belt can provide. I didn't believe it myself.

Seatbelt Physics
 
#34 ·
Re: Efficient engine removal method

I believe you on the strap part, it was the intake manifold's strength I was wondering about. It is aluminum after all. How do you go about tieing them? Just make a knot?
 
#35 ·
Re: Efficient engine removal method

my bare block stripped down weighed in a 296 lbs. in the crate i sent it in....so all together i would say about 350ish. I am currently in the process of putting my motor back in and i can't get it to mate back up with the trans. I have the clutch fork in the throwout bearing, but i can only get it in to about a 1/2" gap....any tips??

FYI...i used a rachet style strap to pull my motor out with on the hoist, just wrapped it around the manifold 2x and then pryed with a screwdriver at first then small crowbar and it just came right out.
 
#37 ·
Re: Efficient engine removal method

Sabrewings said:
Well, I believe the straps are strong enough. I was referring to the intake manifold not being strong enough. But if it works it works. :)

Regarding my idea, I would suggest going bottom to top around the back of the engine, over the radiator support, over the crash beam, back under the radiator support, and back to the engine. That part of your car can take a crash, it should be able to pull the engine off the trans.
Click to expand...
I understood what you meant. I didn't think it was going to work when someone showed me the first time either. I didn't try lifting by the plastic manifolds though. Just seemed like a terrible idea.
Next time I have a stubborn block/trans I'll probably try your idea. I've used them for other stuff similar to that I just didn't think of it for the block. I might end up glad you thought of it lol.
Any good ideas to easily remove the oil pan? I really hate putting anything between the block and pan but it was the only way I was able to do it.
 
#39 ·
Re: Efficient engine removal method

907STi said:
my bare block stripped down weighed in a 296 lbs. in the crate i sent it in....so all together i would say about 350ish. I am currently in the process of putting my motor back in and i can't get it to mate back up with the trans. I have the clutch fork in the throwout bearing, but i can only get it in to about a 1/2" gap....any tips??

Grease the dowels and shaft?
Click to expand...
 
#40 ·
Re: Efficient engine removal method

1998typesh said:
907STi said:
my bare block stripped down weighed in a 296 lbs. in the crate i sent it in....so all together i would say about 350ish. I am currently in the process of putting my motor back in and i can't get it to mate back up with the trans. I have the clutch fork in the throwout bearing, but i can only get it in to about a 1/2" gap....any tips??

Grease the dowels and shaft?
Click to expand...
Woah, the bare block, and by bare I mean, absolutely nothing is connected, just the pistons and rods inside, weighed almost 300 pounds? Holy crap! Going to be fun getting it into the trunk of my GF's car to drive it down to Orlando to get it rebuilt haha.
Click to expand...
 
21 - 40 of 94 Posts
About this Discussion
93 Replies
36 Participants
Last post:
ulyssis
IW STi Forum
posts
4.1M
members
124K
Since
2001
A forum community dedicated to Subaru Impreza and STI owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, engine builds, exhaust, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
GD-General 2.5 Liter/Litre Factory Motor GD-Members' Journals General Subaru Discussions 2015+ STI Discussion