does anyone know how i can tighten up my e-brake cable? it seems like i have to pull it ALL the way up and its not as tight as it used to be. thanks guys
how to tighten E-Brake cable? anyone know?
dragnby
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That's not true. The manual does show how to do it at the hub. It's just not necessary to do it there if you can tighten it the way I described.
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Yes, you are correct, I just checked. My bad...That's not true. The manual does show how to do it at the hub. It's just not necessary to do it there if you can tighten it the way I described.
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I'd be interested to hear from someone who has more knowledge about the parking brake; preferrably a Subaru tech. I wonder when you do need to tighten it at the hub? I would think alternating between the hub/hand brake would be best so as to not pull the cable too much in one direction (all slack gathered at handbrake or hub depending on where you tighten each time).
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Bump.... one of my parking brake shoes is rubbing on the rear...
EDIT: see also: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-brak.../174983-help-one-my-e-brake-pads-keeps-rubbing-rear-disk-after-ebrake-used.html
EDIT: see also: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-brak.../174983-help-one-my-e-brake-pads-keeps-rubbing-rear-disk-after-ebrake-used.html
The proper way is to do it at the rear first, you're adjusting the mechanism that actually performs the braking vs. the cable that "activates" it. If the pads on the inside of the rotor are loosening it's safer to make sure that is what is adjusted first, rather than adjusting the cable to push on it harder. If it turns out the parking brake assembly is fine, then go to the cable.
Practically though I think it would be fine in most cases just to adjust the nuts on the cable. The only times I know of when you must adjust at the rear is when it is taken off, such as getting to the hub.
Practically though I think it would be fine in most cases just to adjust the nuts on the cable. The only times I know of when you must adjust at the rear is when it is taken off, such as getting to the hub.
if you tighten only the cable, you are using the cable to hold the shoes close to the drum at all times.
if you move the shoes with the adjuster at each wheel you can leave the stress off the cable, the lever, and the spreading wedge thing in its resting state. its a more precise adjustment. the way it works is the adjuster spreads the shoes at the top and the cable wedges the shoes open at the bottom. eventually using only the cable will wear the shoes unevenly due to the fact you keep spreading the bottom and never move the top pivot to compensate.
use the wheel adjusters in the hub, tighten them until the drum will not turn and then back off a few clicks so they dont drag. it is harder then adjusting the cable but it is the correct way to do it.
if you move the shoes with the adjuster at each wheel you can leave the stress off the cable, the lever, and the spreading wedge thing in its resting state. its a more precise adjustment. the way it works is the adjuster spreads the shoes at the top and the cable wedges the shoes open at the bottom. eventually using only the cable will wear the shoes unevenly due to the fact you keep spreading the bottom and never move the top pivot to compensate.
use the wheel adjusters in the hub, tighten them until the drum will not turn and then back off a few clicks so they dont drag. it is harder then adjusting the cable but it is the correct way to do it.
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I think there is a hole in each of the rear rotors that you can stick a screw driver into (flat-head?) to adjust them. It stinks the original image from the manual was removed from this thread. I am about to go biking but will post it when I get back unless someone else has it handy.
EDIT>> Come to think of it I think the hole is in the backside of the wheel; not through the rotor.
EDIT>> Come to think of it I think the hole is in the backside of the wheel; not through the rotor.
I am going to go ahead and tighten the cable adjusters in the car under the console. The reason for this is that as the cables are actuated over and over they stretch significantly.
Furthermore, no significant wear will occur to the brake shoes since they are only used to hold the car in place rather than slow it down to a stop. This is a common misconception in cars with four wheel disc brakes since most of their owners learned how to manage the issue on older cars with functional rear drum brakes that do go through brake shoes due to friction.
Furthermore, no significant wear will occur to the brake shoes since they are only used to hold the car in place rather than slow it down to a stop. This is a common misconception in cars with four wheel disc brakes since most of their owners learned how to manage the issue on older cars with functional rear drum brakes that do go through brake shoes due to friction.
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