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Speaker Replacement (Phase 1)
Speaker Replacement (Phase 1)
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Old 06-15-19, 04:18 PM   #11
gsxr1000
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Default added more pix

Ok, Phase III, subwoofer installation:

I decided on the Alpine SWE-S8 powered sub to fill out the lower registers for my speakers, which roll off at 70 Hz. I decided to install it myself after seeing there were multiple existing grommets through the firewall to access to battery for power.

I did a quick fit check to see if it would fit under the driver’s seat, and it did!





Then I used the Pioneer factory wire harness for preamp level outputs for the line level Sub Out signal


...so, out comes the head unit again. The RCA cables I bought were not as tight as I liked, so I zip tied them to be safe.






I also had to cut and resolder the Amp Turn-On line from the Maestro cable harness (Blue-White wire) for the sub (if you use line level inputs, this sub’s amp needs this 12V command line to turn on)


I plugged in the Alpine remote level control as well

I found the factory ground under the front passenger seat, decided to move the amp to the passenger seat, connected everything up for a power-on test to make sure everything works. PASS!


Ok, now I need to find a way to get into the engine bay to reach the battery. I didn’t want to use the grommet behind the FL wheel, so I tried to find the unused one I keep hearing about “above the clutch master cylinder”. That took forever. To save everyone else time, it’s easily in the engine bay, driver’s side, behind the inter cooler.



This firewall hole is NOT visible from inside the car. I popped the factory grommet from the engine bay out while trying to slice an “X” through it to pass the power cable, then used needle nice pliers to remove it entirely. Wet the entire grommet with water (or spit) and it pops back into place easily.


It was much easier to pass the wire through that open hole in the firewall, then slide the grommet on after I shoved about 12” of wire in. You then have to reach all they way above the accelerator and brake, bend the grey factory noise deadening, and you can find the wad of wire you shove through. Now that the grommet is in place, you can pull the rest of the cable into the cabin.



Then I routed the power cable front the positive terminal to the fender, along the top of the engine bay and into the firewall hole

And with the zip ties trimmed:


I routed it into the instrument panel behind the stereo and out the bottom

I then removed the center console and trim panel around the shifter to pass the power cable through, along the driver’s side of the transmission hump. I passed the RCA cables, remote volume cable, and remote amp turn on cable along the passenger side of the transmission hump (to separate power and signal lines to avoid potential noise). Then, I crossed the power cable across the signal lines at a right angle at the rear of the transmission hump, and passed them under the carpeting and poked them out the existing square hole under the passenger seat.

I soldered and shrink wrapped the power cable, ground cable, and remote turn-on wire and tucked excess cables under the carpeting (I didn’t want anything above the amp, out of fear that the passenger seat sliding back and forth could snag or cut a cable).

I was able to fish the ground cable under the rug and over to the factory ground screw, then tighten it from the passenger seat footwell area the the larger cutout in the carpeting.




I still need to find a way to secure it to the vehicle. It sits in the small “well” under the seat, but it’s going to slide around unless I secure it. I think I can use the 2 existing skinny bolts in the floor under the seat to strap it down, or come up with something to anchor it to the seat mounting bolts.

I used the Velcro supplied with the amp to mount the remote level control in the instrument panel bin. I needed to relieve a small channel for the cable into the shifter trim panel.


Flash used to show where I made a hole:


As far as the sound, it’s great! It’s more than I need and totally completes the upgrade from the factory. The bass is very tight and controlled (at 50% of max). It probably only needs to set to 33% to really match the speakers (which are powered by the Pioneer head (22wpc max, and 14 wpc by the CTA standard). The front speakers sound much more clear now that they are high pass filtered to only what is above 63Hz. I’m not going to impress anyone with 12”+ subs in a box, but with the windows up, it’s more than I needed to make the car sound correct.

The sub has a crossover frequency dial, which I should probably set at the highest frequency (150Hz), which should mean that no crossover is being used (less distortion). The Pioneer head has the ability to set crossover points for front, rear and subwoofer, and frequency roll-off sharpness. I initially set the stereo to roll off at 63Hz (the only setting between 50 and 80hz) for my door speakers, since the Alpine’s are only flat to 70 Hz. I then cross in the sub at the same frequency. I need to play with this more. I also need to re-run the Pioneer’s pink noise and SPL car calibration it does for its equalizer now that I have the sub.

Last edited by gsxr1000; 06-16-19 at 05:19 AM. Reason: missing photos
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Old 06-16-19, 09:11 AM   #12
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Default Re: Speaker Replacement (Phase 1)

OK, and finally, Time Alignment and EQ (what Pioneer calls Pink Noise level calibration and time delay adjustment on the AVH-NEX4400 head). I had to recalibrate the sound now that I have applied HPF to my front and rear speakers (>63Hz) and added a sub (LPF to<80Hz).

I decided to use the omnidirectional microphone supplied with my home theater receiver, although you may be able to get decent results with any 1/8" mic, like a speakerphone mic.


I set the Sub Level control using the Alpine remote to 33% (because I wanted to have additional headroom to turn it up later). I set the listening position to 'Front Left' on the stereo and entered into the cal mode by selecting 'Source Off', then 'Settings' (the sprocket icon), then 'Audio' (speaker icon), plugged in the mic cable


I placed the mic on the headrest approximately where my head is, and ran the cal (which takes 5+ minutes).



Here is the result (not sure why it thinks the sub is 106" away, maybe because the speaker doesn't have a direct line of sight to the microphone. Bass is pretty non-directional, so even when I manually corrected it to 44" (about the same distance to the front kickpanel speaker), I can't hear any difference.


Sounds much better!
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