|07-31-19, 06:47 AM||#1|
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Feedback Score: 6 reviews
Superpro Rear Trailing Arm Bushings Install & Review
Part# SPF3097K & SPF3098K
The biggest PITA was getting the old bushings out. Since I didn’t have access to a shop press, I used the drill method and a recip saw to remove the stock bushing and pressed-in steel sleeve (see links below).
I used these for guidance:
DIY: trailing arm bushings (1 piece Energy Suspension and 2 piece Super Pro) - NASIOC
Project VA WRX: Upgrading the bushings and swaybars with Superpro Part 1 - Page 3 of 7 - MotoIQ
19mm and 17mm socket, ratchet, box end wrench
DIY bushing press (see 1st link near bottom of page)
Drill & drill bit
Vise grips or channel lock pliers
Recip saw or hacksaw with fine metal cutting blade
Big hammer and steel chisel
Steel brush, rag, and solvent
- Jack the car and place jackstands
- Remove both trailing arms
- Clamp the trailing arm in a vice
- Drill out the rubber between the steel sleeve and the steel insert in the stock bushing
- Grab the steel insert with channel locks or vice grips and rip it out
- Use a recip saw or hacksaw to cut through the pressed-in steel sleeve in the trailing arm…but be careful to avoid cutting into the arm itself. I made 2 cuts about an inch apart.
- Use a small sledgehammer and a burly chisel to bend up the cut edges of the pressed-in steel sleeve. Keep bending the tab you made back until the steel insert pops out of the trailing arm.
- Clean the inside of the trailing arm eyelet with a steel brush, a rag, and solvent.
- Grease the 1-piece bushing and use a DIY bushing press (made out of a threaded stud, a couple nuts, and a couple washers) to press it into the trailing arm eyelet. Lube up steel sleeve and slide it into the bushing.
Now you’re done with the trailing arm.
- Use the same process on the trailing arm lower mount in the rear hub – drill, rip out insert, cut steel sleeve, clean bushing eyelet
- Grease the 2-piece bushing and insert the bushing halves into the lower mount in the hub. Lube up steel sleeve and slide it into the bushing.
- Reinstall trailing arms. I usually apply final torque with the weight of the car on the wheels to prevent suspension binding.
An alignment is probably a good idea. Since I replaced the rear toe links at the same time, my rear toe was WAY off. Excessive toe destroys tires very quickly. The drive to the alignment shop was SPOOKY – the ass end was swerving all over the road.
Installed on a 2009 WRX with:
245/40-19 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo 2 tires
2011 STI springs
22/22 sway bars
2015 STI steering rack & Perrin steering damper lockout
SPT rear lower control arms
Rallitek adjustable rear endlinks
Rallitek adjustable rear toe arms
Front control arm rear bushing (ALK)
Rear subframe & differential
Rear trailing arm (front and rear)
Before I installed these, I could feel a subtle squirm at the back end under cornering loads – I’m pretty sure it was unintended toe changes as the stock bushings flexed under load.
I installed these bushings along with a set of Rallitek adjustable rear toe links, so I’m not sure which mod made the biggest difference. But I can say that this combination made the rear end more direct and responsive during hard cornering. Now I can immediately feel how much grip the rear tires have, and I no longer have to wait for the rear end to squirm and “set” through a corner.
I haven’t noticed any additional NVH, just a more solid feel from the rear wheels - great for a DD car. And highly recommended for road racers and autocrossers.
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