IW STi Forum banner

Carmudgeon's 2008 DGM STi - Ohlins are on

GR Hatch: 
76K views 214 replies 38 participants last post by  carmudgeon 
#1 · (Edited)
Name changed from KC_Scooter to Carmudgeon.....





Custom Tune by Modified By KC
360whp/358wtq on 91 octane @ 21psi
365whp/364wtq on E85 @ 19psi (Sport mode)
390whp/424wtq on E85 @ 23psi (Sport #)

Induction/Fuel
Perrin CAI
Perrin FMIC
Perrin Fuel Rail
Blouch 20G Turbo
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Perrin Recirc Blowoff Valve
Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors

Exhaust
Cobb Downpipe
Perrin Uppipe
Perrin Equal Length Headers
Perrin CBE

Engine Miscellaneous
Cobb Accessport
NGK LFR7AIX spark plugs
Crawford Performance Air/Oil Separator
Killer B Ultimate Oil Pickup and Windage Tray

Drivetrain
ACT SB4-HDG6 clutch
PST Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
Tigwerks Engine Mounts
Group N pitch stop and transmission mount
Kartboy Short Shifter with Front And Rear Shifter Bushings
Whiteline Positive Power Kit

Suspension
Ohlins Road and Track Coilovers
Cobb 25mm Front Sway Bar with Rallitek HD End Links
Perrin 22mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar with Rallitek HD End Links
Whiteline Rear Swaybar Mount Support Braces
2011 STi lower control arms

Brakes
ATE Super Blue brake fluid
StopTech Posi-Quiet pads
StopTech Stainless Steel Lines
DBA Slotted Front and Rear Rotors
Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace

Chassis Bracing
Cusco Front Strut Tower Brace
Cusco Rear Strut Tower Brace
Whiteline Front LCA Brace

Exterior
Rally Armor mudflaps
Grillcraft scoop and upper grill

Wheels
Evo X OEM BBS wheels w/ Dunlop Direzza's (Summer)
MSW Type 14 wheels w/ Michelin Pilot Aplin PA3's (Winter)

Gauges
Zeitronix ZT-2 Wideband Controller and Datalogging System
Zeitronix LCD display with custom mount

Audio
Pioneer F700 Navigation System
Polk Audio db6501 speakers (front)
Polk Audio db651s speakers (rear)
 

Attachments

See less See more
10
#190 · (Edited)
Numbers for the initial test:

Ride height: stock, +/- 1/16"
Spring rate: 9k front/7k rear
Damping: 28 ranges of adjustment, currently 10 clicks from firmest setting.

Definitely a firmer ride over the stock struts with RCE black springs. I'm going to drive it a couple of more days with the current damping until I get a better feel for it but will probably back it off to a softer setting for daily driving. Definitely handles better though, even with crappy all season tires.

I didn't want to lower the rear since lack of suspension travel seems to be the achilles heel of the GR. I might lower the front an inch or so after the winter.

As expected there's also an increase in NVH with the solid top mounts. Have noticed a few new buzzing/vibration noises. Nothing too serious.
 
#192 · (Edited)
The car must have heard me say I've run out of projects because it invented one for me. Started hearing a popping sound from the front end over the last couple of days. Luckily it was just one of the end link nuts had loosened up. That'll learn me to not put loctite on the threads.

Also adjusted the Ohlins again over the weekend. I'm now 20 clicks from the firmest setting which is close to the softest setting. Definitely more floaty than before but that's what I'm looking for when I schlep back and forth to work.
 
#193 ·
Well the car continues to generate projects for me. Took the car in this morning to have the fluid changed in the tranny and rear diff and found out the left front bushing in the rear diff has failed.

So it seems my options are either locate a set of Group N bushings and have them pressed in or purchase the Beatrush Tension bar that replaces the entire piece. Cost will be a toss up either way.
 
#194 · (Edited)
Ended up going with the Whiteline Positive Power Kit (KDT905). Cheapest solution and it's readily available. I would have preferred Group N bushings but they're hard to find on short notice, sames goes for the Beatrush Tension Bar.

And while I was futilely digging through my box of spare parts I found the Whiteline Positive Shift Kit that I had forgotten to put in. So I'll have them put that in when they do the diff.
 
#195 ·
While waiting for the bushings to show up I went ahead and changed the power steering fluid using the dilution method; suck, fill, drive, repeat. The fluid was pretty brown after 40k miles so I switched to Royal Purple Max ATF.

It had started making a groaning sound for the first turn or two in the mornings which is what precipitated the change but so far the new fluid hasn't made a difference. Maybe its just the cold weather.
 
#196 · (Edited)
Replaced the bushings in the lower support for the rear differential today. All the goo around the left side is from the hydraulic bushing leaking. On the right is the Whiteline KDT903 kit that fills the voids in the stock rubber bushing on that side. More on that in a bit.



In this picture you can see what's left of the stock rubber bushing in the lower right, it's basically destroyed and came out in pieces. When I bought the KDT903 kit I didn't realize it was just to fill the voids on the one side. I went ahead and put it in and didn't think much about it at the time. The KDT905 kit completely replaces both bushings and really is the one you want. One of which is pictured in the lower left.



The hydraulic bushing I removed by cutting the rubber out and then used a hacksaw to remove the steel sleeve that is pressed into the aluminum brace. The KDT905 bushings just slide in with some gentle persuasion. Only took me about an hour to do everything. I already had the KDT906 kit for the rear support so looking forward to a test drive.

Bottom line, don't buy the KDT903 kit and go for the KDT905 (front) and the KDT906 (rear).
 
#206 ·
Replaced the bushings in the lower support for the rear differential today. All the goo around the left side is from the hydraulic bushing leaking. On the right is the Whiteline KDT903 kit that fills the voids in the stock rubber bushing on that side. More on that in a bit.



In this picture you can see what's left of the stock rubber bushing in the lower right, it's basically destroyed and came out in pieces. When I bought the KDT903 kit I didn't realize it was just to fill the voids on the one side. I went ahead and put it in and didn't think much about it at the time. The KDT905 kit completely replaces both bushings and really is the one you want. One of which is pictured in the lower left.



The hydraulic bushing I removed by cutting the rubber out and then used a hacksaw to remove the steel sleeve that is pressed into the aluminum brace. The KDT905 bushings just slide in with some gentle persuasion. Only took me about an hour to do everything.
What about the slotted bushing? How did you remove its sleeve?

Also, how difficult was it to remove the sleeve on the hydraulic bushing? Did you just put a single cut in the sleeve and collapse it or did you have to cut it in more than one place? Was the outer surface of the ring stuck to the aluminum surface of the member or did the ring pieces simply fall out once the ring was cut?
 
#197 ·
Just got back from a test drive, huge difference. Bear in mind that's due to the fact that both of my bushings were destroyed. For those of you whose bushings are still intact it probably wouldn't make as much of a difference. Definitely recommend it if you have a higher HP engine.

There's a line from an old Drew Carey routine where he describes drive through liquor stores as "almost a good idea". That's kind of how I feel about Whiteline bushing inserts.
 
#198 · (Edited)
Winter tires are on

Ordered a set of MSW Type 14 rim's with Michelin Pilot Alpin PA3's, 225/50 17". The size is almost the exact same diameter as the stock rims and I wanted something a little narrower to help cut through the snow. I've had Blizzak's when I lived farther north, but their dry handling characteristics frankly sucks which is why I went with the Michelin's. Not as hardcore as the Blizzaks as snow tires go but hopefully won't be as squirmy, even with the taller sidewalls.

 
#199 ·
Re: Winter tires are on

Ordered a set of MSW Type 14 rim's with Michelin Pilot Alpin PA3's, 225/50 17". The size is almost the exact same diameter as the stock rims and I wanted something a little narrower to help cut through the snow. I've had Blizzak's when I lived farther north, but there dry handling characteristics frankly sucks which is why I went with the Michelin's. Not as hardcore as the Blizzaks as snow tires go but hopefully won't be as squirmy, even with the taller sidewalls.

... but it only ice storms in KC... most annoying winters i have ever seen...

regardless, nice setup!
 
#201 ·
Nothing like a weekend road trip to shake out a few issues. Before I put on the winter rims I had noticed a vibration under light braking. I had hoped it was just an out of balance tire but after switching to the winter rims the shake continued. Turned out the left front rotor was warped. They're DBA 4000 slotted rotors but they've never seen any track duty so it's a little disappointing since they're out of warranty at this point. Luckily someone local was selling a set of new DBA blanks so I've put those on for the time being.

And I finally fixed my aftermarket seat heater. My ghetto wiring solution had come loose. Mmmm, toasty.

Now all I need to do is fix the *#EK@!L#@! exhaust leak and I'll be set for the winter.
 
#203 · (Edited)
It's a generic aftermarket kit from Jegs, I forget what the part # is. The install is pretty straightforward, just time consuming since you have to pretty much disassemble the drivers seat to install it. The only issue I've had (apart from the wiring) is the seat cover coming loose on the back. The bottom of the rear cover is pulled tight and hooks together at the base. The leather has stretched so its too loose and comes undone.

For power I just used the feed for the hidden accessory plug in the center console since I never use it. It's a 15 amp switched circuit so plenty for the heater. I didn't want to hack up the factory wiring harness so I just crimped a pair of spade connecters onto the leads for the heater, unplugged the wiring harness from the socket, and pushed the spade connecters into the factory plug and wrapped it with black electrical tape.
 
#208 ·
What about the slotted bushing? How did you remove its sleeve?

Also, how difficult was it to remove the sleeve on the hydraulic bushing?
The side that doesn't have the hydraulic bushing doesn't have a sleeve. As you see it in the picture is how it came out. It was literally in pieces and there wasn't anything that I needed to do to clean out the hole.

The sleeve for the hydraulic bushing can be easily removed with a hacksaw if you don't have a press, just be careful not to cut into the dogbone since its aluminum and much softer than the sleeve itself. You don't need to cut all the way through, just most of the way and then give it a good wack with a hammer and chisel. You'll need to remove the interior of the bushing first. In my case it wasn't hard since the bushing had almost completely separated from the sleeve. Use a large drill bit to drill a hole in the rubber along the sleeve and then use the hacksaw blade to cut out the rubber.
 
#209 ·
Thanks for the info. How did you handle getting the KDT905 bushing into the hole for the slotted bushing once the hole was cleaned out? The KDT905 bushings I have are several mm larger in diameter than the hole. Even with grease and a mallet the bushing is not going in.
 
#211 ·
Good to know. I'd say all four pieces comprising the two KDT905 bushings are easily 5mm larger in diameter than the hole in the dogbone (41310AG040). That's why I wrongly assumed there was a bushing ring on that side. I'll double check to see that these are actually the "67146" bushings, as specified in http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/install_guides/Z5109.pdf. If they are, I should get the calipers on them for measurement and see what Whiteline has to say.
 
#213 ·
Tigwerks engine mounts

Finally got around to installing the Tigwerks engine mounts that have been sitting on my desk for a couple of months. I had been using a set of Group N mounts after installing the ACT SB4-HDG6 (puck) clutch which was a huge improvement over the stock mounts but there was still a little too much flexing.

I had been on the fence about installing them because of the additional NVH but its not actually as bad as I thought it would be. There is a transient vibration right around 1000 - 1100 RPM. Others have 'fixed' that by bumping up the idle speed, I haven't yet but may tinker with it this week.

Still using the Group N pitch stop and transmission mount. I had thought about buying a transmission mount when Tigwerks releases one although I don't know if I see a point. The amount of drivetrain flex at this point is negligible.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top