Ok guys I'm finally making a thread for the push start prototype I put in my Sti after a ton of questions came flying in. I'm not great at using this forum yet so excuse me if I don't get all the pictures posted correctly..this thread is only possible thanks to czecho lol.
The thread was created to show people that this system exists and also to show Go Easy Systems that a lot of people are interested in it. They have the link to this thread.
The Push Button conversion includes:
Color matched door handle
2 RFID key fobs
Start button with JDM Bezel
Key hole cover
Immobilizer bypass
Back up key pad
NOT pressing the brake in:
First press is accessory, second press is on and third press turns everything off.
PRESSING the brake in:
Hold push button to start car.
People are having some concern with what happens if the key fob battery dies or gets bricked??! Inside the key fob is a bladed key (which you have to get cut) to enter your vehicle. If you keep the original key ignition intact, then your all set. If you did not then you go to your key pad that is included in the package for this very reason and dial in your code to start you car.
Do you happen to have a pinout of what the fuel pump wire outputs? I originally was assuming it was a kill, but the diagram shows that you are tapping the wire and not cutting it, so that is not the case. I am curious to know what the wire is looking for, be it a (+) of (-) input or if it outputs some sort of constant/pulsed ground. I could have sworn someone was asking this question in the previous pages. Since this is a universal kit, it could be some sort of wait-on-start feature where the pump needs to prime before starting, but with the info there I am not too sure.
I tapped the door lock/unlock down on the driver side kick panel. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but they are negatively switched. Meaning the wire you tap should rest at +12v and drop to zero when performing the function you want. [unlock wire will drop from 12v to 0v when you press the unlock button] Seeing as this is the most common door lock type, the module should have negative outputs by default, but just double check to make sure your door switches and module outputs match. I did not use a CAN module to interface the door locks and it works fine, however it does not retain the factory lock/unlock chirps. You either have to tap the original siren (located near the washer fluid reservoir) or add a mini piezo chime which you can get at radioshack or wherever.
I dont have any info on the trunk since I have a hatchback and didnt have to work on it, but my guess is you will have a negative trigger again coming from the module (or possibly a 500mA positive) which you will have to use as a relay trigger and have that relay drive the actuator.
TL;DR: Post the pinouts for the module and what the fuel pump wire outputs/inputs and I help out more.
Anyone have pictures once you place the key In the bypass box it says you have to wrap the wire around the immobilizer ring, but I've search google for this an cant find
As far as I am aware, these are all rebranded kits from the same manufacturer. With that being said, I have the advanced keys one and the range is about what it is with the stock Subaru Remote. I do miss the 1mile range I had with all my previous set ups, but that is all forgotten now that I never have to take my keys out of my pocket.
Had the keys that are hidden I the transponder cut plus a dummy key cut since, I will be cutting the key and leaving in the ignition till I can get the locking pin removed
So first attempt at trying to get it working failed we had everything working except being able to start the car via push button wiring was checked an double checked and just couldn't get it to work, so we removed the system an will try to get the immobilizer/host exchanged
damn, this thread is so frustrating and I haven't even installed or attempted the install yet. I seriously might just pay the money and have a shop do this. It might be worth the $400 to just let them deal with it.
We're the jumpers set correctly? Also, did you try troubleshooting with the Oem key in the ignition to make sure your immobilizer bypass wasn't the issue?
No jumpers in this particular system everything work correctly except the car starting, we verified with a oem key that it wasn't a immobilizer issue check all relays wiring multiple times
yah just to many issue to figure out also Innovative stopped returning my emails me once I had started asking for a replacement unit, The return policy is already shitty 20% fee for restocking & only if it was un-opened. so I am pretty much SOL, getting the Advanced Keys system installed on 13th, I will be using a Idatalink Immobilizer bypass
Well i officially gave up on the GPpower kit taken off aliexpress. A nice 300 bucks wasnt well spent. I test tapped into the wires in kick panel and one caused short circuit and destroyed my ebrake module which the dealer was nice enought to replace under warranty, with a warning of no further mercy.
Anyone here with a pure plug and play thingy for my legacy, i'll take in a heartbeat.
Got my advanced keys system installed at shop in my area today it did take him few hours since it was his first time installing this type of unit, everything worked great we had to go with a key in the box immobilizer, instead of idatalink the installer couldn't get the Idatalink working correctly.
Edit: on a side I do find the shock sensor a tad sensitive even all the way down
Nope just a base model impreza used this thread for research
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