GD: Oil cooler! I need one!! DD/Tracked, WRB 05, ARFAB block, Dom 4 XTR; 400WHP@20PSI - Page 3 - Subaru Impreza WRX STI Forums: IWSTI.com
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Oil cooler!  I need one!! DD/Tracked, WRB 05, ARFAB block, Dom 4 XTR; 400WHP@20PSI
Oil cooler!  I need one!! DD/Tracked, WRB 05, ARFAB block, Dom 4 XTR; 400WHP@20PSI
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Old 09-29-10, 05:15 PM   #21
Glycerin
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Default Re: Car rebuilt by AR Fabrication updates returning soon!!!

so i had some problems with my front sway bar. here is a portion of my correspondence with Myles @ RCE. Ive color coded it for the simplicity of reading.

Before I post this I wanna say many thanks to Myles for being available and giving great customer service. Im thinking ill post up pics in the next post.

From: Mitch [mailto:@yahoo.com] Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 8:33 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RCE front sway making alot of noise.

Myles and associates,

I called on Thursday and you asked me to send pics of my setup to try to diagnose the problem.

Just to restate, I have your RCE Sways w/ kartboy endlinks. I have had them installed since early may 2010. Other suspension mods include BC Racing BR series coilovers and camber bolts up front that were installed on wednesday. Previously I had TEIN basic dampers without the camber bolts.

The sway bars have constantly made noise, and continue to with this new setup. I think I can see where the noise is coming from. It looks as though the endlink bolt is hitting the sway bar itself because there is a spot where is the paint is chipped on the swaybar. Only the front makes the clunking noise, and only when driving over uneven terrain such as bumps, dips, and uneven speed bumps. The endlinks are almost straight up and down.

what is the torque spec when tightening the kartboy endlinks?

I'm including quite a few pics. Please, help me resolve this issue!

thanks guys.

Mitch


From: Racecomp Engineering <[email protected]> To:< yahoo.com>
Sent: Fri, September 17, 2010 9:12:07 PM
Subject: RE: RCE front sway making alot of noise.

Thanks Mitch for following up with me. One thing I see that makes a big difference with clearance is you need to move the lower washer that is between the bolt and the bushing. It is not needed there as the bolt head holds the bushing in. This will give you the critical clearance you need between the bar and the bolt head. Thats washer is about 1/8 inch thick. It appears the bolt head has hit the bar just barely and this will make the difference.

Let me know your thoughts.

Myles

In a message dated 9/17/2010 9:37:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, @yahoo.com writes:

Thanks for the quick response! It look plausible. I'll take out that washer that next time I'm underneath the car.

What should i torque the the bolts down to when I put them back together?

Mitch



From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
Sent: Fri, September 17, 2010 9:48:46 PM
Subject: Re: RCE front sway making alot of noise.

ALOT...like as much as you can....35ish or more. We used an impact gun on LOW! Be careful as you can brake those bolts. We tighten these very much.


Myles,

Just a quick note to address my concerns from earlier. Hopefully you can use this to help others int he future.

I found out (by spending time underneath my car) that most of the clunk sound was coming from the front corner of the sways bar coming in contact with the tie rod. I know this because there are marks in the FSB and up and down the tie rod. You can probably see it in the pics i sent earlier. perhaps my ride height was affecting it. my new ride height right now is 13.75 measured from the center of the hub to the top to the wheel well on the front (14 in the rear.) that is with 17x8.5 Enkei RPF1s with some well used direzza star specs in 245/40 (17). C/Os are BC BRs with plates. Front camber is -2.3 by maxing out camber bolts.

To fix the issue i went to the hardware store and bought some thinner washers that should still do the job quite well. I also tightened down the endlinks to 40ft/lbs with antiseize. That did not change the clunk though, as the FSB corner was still contacting the tie rod when going around corners or bumps. I decided to try the harder setting on FSB just to move it away from the tie rod. the result was great! the clunk is gone and the car handles extremely well, even better than before (but they might be my -3.0 camber on the rear that i changed at the same time). Note to self for next time, only make one change at a time.

Thanks for your assistance. You have been very helpful.

Mitch


In a message dated 9/27/2010 3:38:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, @yahoo.com writes:

Hey Mitch thanks a ton man for the feedback! Interesting to know for sure. I havent had this issue before other than with a few 07's that we sold to but we dont any longer.

Glad it handles well too!

Best Regards,
Myles Williams
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Old 09-29-10, 05:20 PM   #22
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Default Re: Car rebuilt by AR Fabrication updates returning soon!!!

as you can see in the pics below, the tie rods have been hit by the front edge of the sway bar. originally i thought it was the bottom endlink bolt hitting the sway bar and making all that noise. i was [email protected]!



the sways are now on the opposite setting to counteract this from happening. i also put in slightly smaller washers.
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Old 09-30-10, 07:08 AM   #23
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Default Re: Sways fixed! Thx Myles @ RCE! WRB 05, ARFAB block, Dom 4 XTR;

You said that the front sway bar was impacting the tie rod on the rear, SOFT setting? Because mine is doing so on the front, HARD setting.
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Old 09-30-10, 05:06 PM   #24
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Default Re: Sways fixed! Thx Myles @ RCE! WRB 05, ARFAB block, Dom 4 XTR;

youve got yours set to hard and its still bangin? damn...

try callin myles at RCE and see what he says.
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Old 01-03-11, 04:21 PM   #25
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Default Re: Sways fixed! Thx Myles @ RCE! WRB 05, ARFAB block, Dom 4 XTR;

im horrible with updates, but i got tuned (finally) today. here are the results.




overall i am very happy. i will reintroduce meth in a couple weeks when the gauges are all installed. hoping for about 450 to the wheels.
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Old 02-21-11, 08:25 AM   #26
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Default Re: Sways fixed! Thx Myles @ RCE! WRB 05, ARFAB block, Dom 4 XTR;

the list gets bigger!

bushings added and buylists/installed lists updated!

I am signed up for Trackdaze @ VIR on Feb28 - Mar 1
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Old 02-22-11, 03:42 PM   #27
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Default Re: HPDE Dates inside!! DD/Tracked, WRB 05, ARFAB block, Dom 4 XTR; [email protected]

plug gaps checked and compression tested today. at or near 140 psi on all cylinders. yay!
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Old 02-23-11, 05:32 PM   #28
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Default Re: HPDE Dates inside!! DD/Tracked, WRB 05, ARFAB block, Dom 4 XTR; [email protected]

changed out my hawk HPS pads for HP+ pads for the track day coming up. also readjusted camber from -3.5 to -2.9. tomorrow im planning on using the dremel to install the Aerocatch hood latches and also put in the new fender liners, since its looking like we will probably get wet for a little while.

still trying to make a decision on tires. when i had them off for the brake pad, I noticed a few wear spots that are through the main tread. I might post pics on facebook and get some thoughts from elsewhere. rotating them from to rear should work for the track. Otherwise they are in perfect track condition!
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Old 02-28-11, 05:58 PM   #29
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Default Re: HPDE Dates inside!! DD/Tracked, WRB 05, ARFAB block, Dom 4 XTR; [email protected]

woohoo! VIR is awesome! the car is running great. we had a little (alot) of rain for my last session but the good ol subie was killin it!

3 hours of sleep last night, so im smoked. i get to do it all again tomorrow!
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Old 04-02-11, 12:44 PM   #30
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Default Re: HPDE Dates inside!! DD/Tracked, WRB 05, ARFAB block, Dom 4 XTR; [email protected]

ok heres what im thinking for brake ducts. I need your thoughts.

3620-3.00-12 FOOT
Neoprene Air Duct, 3 inch diameter, 12 foot length $70.99
ORDERING 1 of these
Neoprene Air Duct Hose is widely used for ****pit and other low pressure ducting applications. This hose is extremely flexible and pliable, but a bronze coated spring-steel wire support helix prevents it from collapsing. The fiberglass fabric cover and fiberglass cord are both impregnated and coated with neoprene rubber. The temperature limit is 300F. Lengths can be screwed together to form a longer continuous length if you've got leftovers around. Black only.


----------------------------OR--------------------------------

3621-3.00-12 FOOT
High Temp Silicone Air Duct, 3 inch diameter, 12 foot length $106.99
ORDERING 1 of these
Silicone Rubber Air Duct Hose is popular for brake cooling ducts due to its high temperature capability (maximum 550F). This hose is extremely flexible and pliable, but a bronze coated spring-steel wire support helix prevents it from collapsing. The fiberglass fabric cover and fiberglass cord are both impregnated and coated with silicone rubber. Lengths can be screwed together to form a continuous length if you've got leftovers around. Red-orange only.


----------------------------AND-------------------------------

3628-Black
Medium NACA Duct, Single Hose - Black $21.49
ORDERING 2 of these
Computer Aided Design (CAD) and wind tunnel testing have been combined to produce these ducts. Attention to detail results in maximum air flow with minimal drag. They are molded from tough, high-impact clear or black plastic. An integrally molded flange (approximately .75" wide on most ducts) makes them easy to install in body panels, air dams or side windows. The outlet nipple is sized to fit our 3" air ducting hose. Approximately 9.5" x 4.5" opening excluding flange.


----------------------------OR--------------------------------

3623-Black Air Inlet, 6 x 3.5 inch, Rectangular $18.99 ORDERING 2 of these
Computer Aided Design (CAD) and wind tunnel testing have been combined to produce these ducts. Attention to detail results in maximum air flow with minimal drag. They are molded from tough, high-impact black plastic. An integrally molded flange makes them easy to install in body panels, headlight openings, or air dams. The outlet nipple is sized to fit our 3" air ducting hose. Approximately 6" x 3.75" inches plus flange.


----------------------------AND-------------------------------

3613-3.25
Lined Hose Clamp, 2.31 to 3.25 inch dia 1 to 7: $2.89 8 to 49: $2.83 ORDERING 10 of these


----------------------------AND-------------------------------

05-07 STi Duct Plate Kit $75.00 ONE SET
For those enthusiasts who have purchased hose from another vendor and are looking for an inexpensive way to properly attach it to your spindle and focus the air at the center of your rotor, we have your solution, Quantum’s duct plate kits.
Our kit features TIG welded aluminum construction. The plates come with all the necessary hardware to bolt them to your spindle. We even include stainless hose clamps you can attach your existing hose.
Model: 07115.DK


-------------------------AND MAYBE----------------------------

C6 Z06 Inlets - Modified $45.00 ONE SET
We start with the factory C6 Z06 brake cooling inlets and then we modify them to accept our 3" hose.
Included in the kit are (1) RH and (1) LH duct as well as all necessary mounting hardware and instructions.
Model: 07043.01


-------------------------AND MAYBE----------------------------

Cool Shirt In-Line Blower Fan, 135 CFM, 3" Diameter CS470 $39.99 ORDERING 2 of these
Replacement 135 CFM blower fan for Cool Shirt™ Cool Air systems. Also ideal as an in-line blower for brake cooling ducts or windshield defoggers. 12VDC, 2.9 amps.


SO TO TOTAL IT UP:

106.99 for hose (depending of hose type)
43.98 for 2x NACA duct (depending on which duct will fit with FMIC, etc)
28.30 for 10x hose clamps
75.00 for 1x quantum duct set
=254.27 +shipping/tax

+45.00 for optional 1x the vette duct set
+79.98 for optional 2x inline fans
=379.25 +shipping/tax

+ epoxy/fastener type things...

i need to post up pics of my setup to see which ducts will fit my FMIC piping etc. but other than that...

what do you guys think?

Last edited by Glycerin; 04-02-11 at 01:18 PM.
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