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Road racing, DCCD and VDC/TC
Road racing, DCCD and VDC/TC
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Old 07-23-13, 05:46 AM   #51
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Default Re: Road racing, DCCD and VDC/TC

I leave my DCCD in auto when the tarmac is dry, granted I have not played with the settings much (read: at all, at least when dry.) My concern was that adjusting while slipping may cause DCCD damage (as discussed in several other threads.) Furthermore, there were other things that need my attention.

Wet-tarmac is a different story. I have tried the 50/50 lock and like the feel in corners...a lot. THe caveat is that you get a LOT of understeer. DISCLAIMER: Although I experienced a marked increase in understeer when locked, the direct correlation to the DCCD setting is not confirmed as my tire pressures were WAY too high.

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Old 11-02-19, 01:53 PM   #52
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Default Re: Road racing, DCCD and VDC/TC

Bumping from the dead!!

Started tracking my car - 2016 STI and wanted to collect some input from those that have been down the road i started.

I've never touched the VDC, TC, or DCCD +/Auto/- and want to start doing some testing.

Car is on e85 and running adjustable sway bars 26F & 24R. 3.2F camber & 2.3R Camber. Been having trouble hitting those contact indicator triangles on the RE71's so i'm going to back out the camber .3 on every corner. Tire pressure has been 31F/33R(which got me close to the triangles in the rear) HOT have also tried 34/36.

I run typically at Sonoma as well with a PB of 1:56.

What would be a good setting to try out for all the traction options and DCCD? I get a lot of push sometimes, but I love the turn in of the larger bar and the high-speed stability it provides. I also want to start bombing through T1 and T10, but lack confidence in not knowing the limits of the car/tires which i'm sure i'm far from.
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Old 11-02-19, 05:22 PM   #53
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Default Re: Road racing, DCCD and VDC/TC

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rymaggi View Post
I've never touched the VDC, TC, or DCCD +/Auto/- and want to start doing some testing.

running adjustable sway bars 26F & 24R. 3.2F camber & 2.3R Camber. Been having trouble hitting those contact indicator triangles on the RE71's so i'm going to back out the camber .3 on every corner. Tire pressure has been 31F/33R(which got me close to the triangles in the rear) HOT have also tried 34/36...
I get a lot of push sometimes, but I love the turn in of the larger bar and the high-speed stability it provides. I also want to start bombing through T1 and T10, but lack confidence in not knowing the limits of the car/tires which i'm sure i'm far from.
You have documented a lot, but a lot is missing. What size tires and wheels? What setting for the sway bars? Who makes them?
Overdriving (front understeers) is a common newbie issue. Have you used a pyrometer? Have you tried more pressure in the rear? Stiffer sway settings in the rear? There are all kinds of websites that recommend adjustments for different handling issues.
You do not mention shocks. Stock? You need a good coilover. Not a $1000 set.
The DCCD can help, but you need the basics done right first, not the DCCD as a bandaid.
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Old 11-03-19, 09:16 AM   #54
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Default Re: Road racing, DCCD and VDC/TC

Tire size: 265/35r18
RPF1: 18x9.5

SuperPro 26mm Front: Soft
SuperPro 24MM Rear:Medium

Understeer is def, from me, but sometimes i feel its the "grip" and setup.

I ordered a Pyrometer.

I have tried higher pressures all with bias towards the rear.

Have not gone full stiff in the rear. By looking at it, the headlight leveling thing might get in the way, i'll have to remove it, move to full stiff, then reinstall that little headlight leveling lever that bolts into the LCA.

Fortune Auto Coilovers 8k/8k. I do plan to change these spring rates to match the coilovers for the time being then either Ohlins or KW's down the road. I'd like to make due with these for now, they are leaps and bounds better than ISC or BC and Tein low entry's (i've tried them all when i was younger and less income).

I'm hoping to dial in the basics based off what i have for now, and create a "to-do" list that allows all the parts i have to work together and not against one another. However, thats where my inexperience comes in and i'm stuck to either googling and hoping i can find similar threads (Never happens) or leaning on the forums.

Not many people track their STI's, they're all hard parkers....

I would like to setup the TC VDC so that it allows me to "drive" the car. However, i don't want to die either (joke).
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Old 11-03-19, 10:30 AM   #55
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Default Re: Road racing, DCCD and VDC/TC

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rymaggi View Post
I would like to setup the TC VDC so that it allows me to "drive" the car. However, i don't want to die either (joke).
Surely you are running with that stuff off? I could not drive my car with it on.
What power do you make? Tires may not be enough.
I believe the secret sauce has the front spring rate being softer. You may want to go to 10 or 12K in the rear.
I have 24mm bars front and rear, though my car only weights 3K at the most. My rear is full hard, front full soft.
Def track the tire temps. It can make a world of difference when it's balanced. You need an assistant if possible, to read the temps ASAP. Read articles about reading temps and what they mean for adjusting camber. With my Hoosiers I'm 34-36 hot.
Try -3.0 Front & -2.0 Rear camber.
Shameless plug, but see what I've done if you haven't. My member's Journal.
My next major project is to put uprights on it by Full Spectrum Performance. This will correct a lot of suspension geometry issues. Hopefully yours is not lowered that much.
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Old 11-03-19, 05:13 PM   #56
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Default Re: Road racing, DCCD and VDC/TC

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Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
Surely you are running with that stuff off? I could not drive my car with it on.
What power do you make? Tires may not be enough.
I believe the secret sauce has the front spring rate being softer. You may want to go to 10 or 12K in the rear.
I have 24mm bars front and rear, though my car only weights 3K at the most. My rear is full hard, front full soft.
Def track the tire temps. It can make a world of difference when it's balanced. You need an assistant if possible, to read the temps ASAP. Read articles about reading temps and what they mean for adjusting camber. With my Hoosiers I'm 34-36 hot.
Try -3.0 Front & -2.0 Rear camber.
Shameless plug, but see what I've done if you haven't. My member's Journal.
My next major project is to put uprights on it by Full Spectrum Performance. This will correct a lot of suspension geometry issues. Hopefully yours is not lowered that much.
340/380 to the wheels.

I'm running with it on (VDC & TC). Sonoma has quite a bit of walls. Look at the track and T10 is a high-speed bend as well as T1 into T2. Those area's i know i can shave a few seconds as i'm using the "I run out of 4th gear" as an excuse to not be throttling through. I'll post a link to my Session 3 of HPDE3 from last week below.

I've seen (local tuner) Snail Performance; where they're matching the front bar with the spring rates 26F & 24R / 12F & 10kR. I like the high speed stability and also the precise turn in. I however don't like the oversteer when bombing into a corner, which of course is "driver" and can be avoided of course.

I plan to have someone jimmy on the spot to record inner, middle, outer temps on all 4 next time. Which would be the 10th or 5 months down the road in March"ish".

I'm spending the summer prepping the car with "health maintenance"; KillerB Pan Kit, Oil Cooler, Ron Davis Rad or just CSF, AOS, KillerB oil valve, Rad ducting, and a few other smaller items.

I'm gonna give 2.9F & 2.0R camber a try. I'll def check out your journal. Only way to learn this shit is from others tbh who've been faced with the same issues.

This was my first "open passing" I'm a more cautious driver and don't care to pass in "sketchy areas" on cars that i don't know and are unpredictable.

I've had private instruction on Sonoma for about 15 "sessions" (3 Track "days" worth) This HPDE3 was techincally my 4th track day. The burgandy Porsche you'll see in the video, i wasn't able to go my normal pace behind. He had the top end to keep me off, but in the technical not so much.

NASA - HPDE3 - Session 3 - Sonoma Raceway - WRX STI - PART (2/2) - 10_26_19 - YouTube

Last edited by Rymaggi; 11-03-19 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 11-04-19, 11:55 AM   #57
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Default Re: Road racing, DCCD and VDC/TC

You cannot tell what the car is doing with the nannies on! Here, in the NE, BMW clubs will not let you on the track with them on!
In my '08 it would not let me drive the car anywhere near its potential. It was interfering something terrible. I don't think it's the fact that I am an ex-race car driver, either.

I think Snail can help you. I know one guy who was involved with their AZ shop.

Good list of things to do. Add an oil pressure gauge with warning light and front brake ducts. Look into adapting Z06 brake ducts and I have a picture tutorial about how I first did it on my '08. It's not too hard to mod the backing plates to work. I then went to Roo ducts and on my '07 I used the Z06 ducts with very slight mods and fashioned my own inlets from a cheap dust collection part.
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Old 11-04-19, 02:14 PM   #58
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Default Re: Road racing, DCCD and VDC/TC

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
You cannot tell what the car is doing with the nannies on! Here, in the NE, BMW clubs will not let you on the track with them on!
In my '08 it would not let me drive the car anywhere near its potential. It was interfering something terrible. I don't think it's the fact that I am an ex-race car driver, either.

I think Snail can help you. I know one guy who was involved with their AZ shop.

Good list of things to do. Add an oil pressure gauge with warning light and front brake ducts. Look into adapting Z06 brake ducts and I have a picture tutorial about how I first did it on my '08. It's not too hard to mod the backing plates to work. I then went to Roo ducts and on my '07 I used the Z06 ducts with very slight mods and fashioned my own inlets from a cheap dust collection part.Image Link
When you refer to "nannies", i'm guessing that means VDC and TC? lol

I've always felt that the VDC and TC would keep me in check when pushing the car, but i have nothing to go off of since i've never really turned it off.

Doing custom ducting is definitely something i want to do. All the brake duct kits made by companies are so expensive. There's also these which could help for now...

Boomba Racing Brake Cooling Deflector | 2015+ Subaru WRX (031-00-008)
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