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Old 02-01-10, 05:28 PM   #1
HolyCrapItsFast
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Default Engine removal, GD

So I’ve put together this list of steps involved in removing a motor from an STI, 06 specifically, but I would imagine that this would be good for anything from an 04 to an 07. I realize that there are other lists here regarding engine removal but this one deals more with the efficient order of process.

This procedure has a difficulty level of 8-10. If you don't know your way around the tool box then have a shop do this work

Please understand that this is only one of a hundred ways to remove an engine from an STI and you may not exactly agree with the order I have chosen but this is the fifth time I’m doing this on my car alone and it is the method that best suits me. Practice makes perfect. If anyone finds this useful then that is great.

All input and comments are welcome, I’m sure I missed something.

Tools…
Engine Hoist
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
Screw Driver, Flat and Phillips
10mm Socket
12mm Socket
14mm Socket
12mm Wrench
14mm Wrench
Short and Long extension
Universal Joint
Pry Bar
Breaker Bar
14mm Hex, 10mm on older models
Heavy Pliers
Hose Clamp Pliers
Magnetic Wand (because you will inevitably drop something)
Drop cloth

Procedure…
1. Unplug Fuel Pump Relay
2. Loosen Gas Cap
3. Start Engine, Allow it to stall, Crank some more. (Releases fuel pressure)
4. Remove Battery
5. Remove Strut Bar (If Installed)
6. Remove Intercooler (Provides easy access to the turbo area)
7. Remove all visible fasteners from the turbo/downpipe union
Lift Vehicle
8. Unplug Rear O2 Sensor
9. Remove remaining nut from the turbo/downpipe union
10. Remove fasteners from the downpipe/intermediate pipe union
11. Remove Down Pipe
12. Remove lower engine Bell Housing bolts
13. Remove Motor Mount Nuts
14. Drain Coolant by opening the radiator petcock. You will need a large drop cloth.
Lower Vehicle
15. For WRX models remove the throttle and cruise control cables from the throttle body. Remove electrical connections to alternator, crank sensor, AC and power steering
16. Remove Upper and Lower Radiator Hose from engine
17. Remove coolant lines leading to the filler tank (passenger side)
18. Unplug Fans
19. Remove the Radiator
20. Remove Intake and Cold Air Box (if installed)
21. Remove the alternator belt guard
22. Loosen the belt tensioner for the AC belt, Remove Belt
23. Loosen tension on the power steering/alternator belt and remove
24. Remove reservoir hose from Power Steering Pump
25. Remove Power Steering Pump from engine and set aside.
26. Remove Alternator. Remove Air Conditioning Compressor Set aside where battery was
27. Remove Coolant Filler Tank from engine
28. Remove Bracket holding power steering lines to engine. (passenger side)
29. Remove Boost Controller vacuum lines. (passenger side)
30. Unplug Front O2 Sensor (passenger side)
31. Unplug Engine Harness (Both Sides)
32. Remove the Fuel Lines and Vacuum line to the fire wall and Master Cylinder (driver side)
33. Remove Pitchstop
34. Remove Starter (driver side)
35. Remove Heater Hoses from fire wall (driver side)
36. Remove the remaining bell housing bolts
37. Expose the Clutch Fork Shaft by removing the hex plug. (14mm Hex needed, or 10mm on some models) (driver side below starter) Remove the shaft by installing a temporary 10mm bolt into threaded hole and yank. Disengage the Fork from the Throwout Bearing prior to engine removal

Now you are ready to remove the motor (Do the following)
38. Attach Hoist (I simply tie an old seat belt around both sides of the intake manifold. This method will not scratch or leave marks on any painted or prepared surfaces like a chain might)
39. Position a floor jack underneath the transmission.
40. Lift the engine a bit with the hoist, then raise the jack to the tranny. This will balance the load on the input shaft of the tranny. Never allow the full weight of the engine to rest on the jack. Let the hoist do the work. .
41. Repeat until the engine mount studs have cleared the chassis allowing free forward movement of the motor.
42. Have a friend help with this step. Pry the engine from the tranny while very slowly pulling the hoist forward. Have someone there to catch the motor when it releases.

Tada! Its out.

I imagine that installation is in reverse order. The only thing to remember here is to attach the fork and throughout bearing assembly to the tranny first prior to mating the engine to the tranny.

Updated 08-21-2011. Pics provided by
1998typesh. I just doctored them up a bit with captions. Thank you Shawn!







































Many more still to come. Stay posted!

Last edited by HolyCrapItsFast; 09-30-11 at 04:16 PM.
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Old 02-01-10, 05:49 PM   #2
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Default Re: Efficient engine removal method

Sticky vote. Nice write up.
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Old 02-01-10, 07:39 PM   #3
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Default Re: Efficient engine removal method

Thanks for the post. I just recently R&R'd my engine, and I have made a few minor comments in red. Please check the comments as I may have misread your instructions.

Edit: I deleted my initial comments to not clog up your thread, since you have dealt with the comments.

Last edited by swr999; 02-03-10 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 02-01-10, 11:28 PM   #4
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Default Re: Efficient engine removal method

Quote:
Originally Posted by swr999 View Post
Thanks for the post. I just recently R&R'd my engine, and I have made a few minor comments in red. Please check the comments as I may have misread your instructions.
Thank for the review... I made the necessary changes above. I saw an obvious flaw when you mentioned the AC compressor. In my car the AC is not functioning so I just remove the lines... for a moment I didn't realize that I was writing this for the masses. I added steps for removing the belts. All better now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by swr999 View Post
3. Start Engine, Allow it to stall, Crank some more. (Releases fuel pressure)
Or let the car sit overnight, pressure will drain down.
This is not really a gauranty though. I'm gonna stick to the book on this one and play it safe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by swr999 View Post
I just left mine up on the 4 jack stands. Easier to work underneath
I layed out all the "Under Car" work first so it is not necessary for the car to be up from this point forward. Easier to work on stuff up top with the car grounded

Quote:
Originally Posted by swr999 View Post
24. Remove Bracket holding power steering lines to engine. (passenger side)
not sure what's happening here?
On an 06 the power steering lines run along the engine to the rack. These are attached to the same bracket that holds the filler tank on.
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Old 02-03-10, 06:01 PM   #5
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Default Re: Efficient engine removal method

Quote:
Originally Posted by brodix32 View Post

On an 06 the power steering lines run along the engine to the rack. These are attached to the same bracket that holds the filler tank on.

yea there are clamps i will call them that are a bi%ch to get off the first time. other than that looks good.
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Old 03-21-10, 09:02 PM   #6
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Default Re: Efficient engine removal method

I'm trying to pull the engine on my 06' STI and I followed a combo of this guide and the factory manual, and while everything swings free and I have no wires or hoses tying anything to the chassis, my engine an trans are not splitting apart so I have a few questions. I hope you guys can help the lightbulb click on.

First are there any bolts that go side to side that tie the engine an tranny together? I have all of the ones that go front to rear out (I have a shortblock sitting so I can verify I got all the bolts and nuts off the back of the bellhousing).

The only bolts I didn't take off were the inspection plate on the bottom or the one that goes side to side just below the turbo, do these need to come off?

As far as the engine mounts go do you just take the nuts off the crossmember, or do you have to unbolt them from the engine? I just took the nuts off, it allows the engine to come up and clear the studs no problem, but no separation from the transmission.

Final question. What does it take to disconnect the clutch fork. I pulled the clutch fork shaft with a 10mm bolt and the fork is just flopping around in there. Is there any trick to disengaging this besides just pulling it up after pulling the pin?

I'd love to pry somewhere, but there is absolutely no gap between the engine and transmission. It seems I missed something but I'm not sure what.

Thanks in advance,

Andre
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Old 03-30-10, 02:53 AM   #7
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Default Re: Efficient engine removal method

I had the same problem with my 2004 WRX...the transmission wouldn't come lose from the engine...I hated to do it, but after spraying it down with penetration spray...I simply had to use a chisel and hammer...once I got an opening, then used a pry bar to to release it. You will run the risk of damage by doing this, but I was running out of options.

What I need help on now is getting the engine mounts to mate back up with the frame. They are off by about 1.5" and the engine/trany won't go back any further. I really want to get my car moving along again...Anybody have any suggestions?
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Old 03-30-10, 03:23 AM   #8
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Default Re: Efficient engine removal method

A note, using Moly-B in area's that you may have to access again helps.


It also helps to disconnect the radiator fan connectors and the lower hose from under the car.
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Old 03-30-10, 07:26 AM   #9
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Default Re: Efficient engine removal method

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjim View Post
I had the same problem with my 2004 WRX...the transmission wouldn't come lose from the engine...I hated to do it, but after spraying it down with penetration spray...I simply had to use a chisel and hammer...once I got an opening, then used a pry bar to to release it. You will run the risk of damage by doing this, but I was running out of options.

What I need help on now is getting the engine mounts to mate back up with the frame. They are off by about 1.5" and the engine/trany won't go back any further. I really want to get my car moving along again...Anybody have any suggestions?
The first time I did an engine swap I had this problem... I installed the mounts on the wrong side of the engine. If you look at the mount it should be at an angle to the motor, not straight.

Other than that I couldn't really say.
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Old 03-30-10, 07:37 AM   #10
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Default Re: Efficient engine removal method

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redleg06 View Post
I'm trying to pull the engine on my 06' STI and I followed a combo of this guide and the factory manual, and while everything swings free and I have no wires or hoses tying anything to the chassis, my engine an trans are not splitting apart so I have a few questions. I hope you guys can help the lightbulb click on.

First are there any bolts that go side to side that tie the engine an tranny together? I have all of the ones that go front to rear out (I have a shortblock sitting so I can verify I got all the bolts and nuts off the back of the bellhousing).

Nope.. I believe there are eight bolts that are linear to the motor. (If i recall)

The only bolts I didn't take off were the inspection plate on the bottom or the one that goes side to side just below the turbo, do these need to come off?

Nope.

As far as the engine mounts go do you just take the nuts off the crossmember, or do you have to unbolt them from the engine? I just took the nuts off, it allows the engine to come up and clear the studs no problem, but no separation from the transmission.

Just the nuts.

Final question. What does it take to disconnect the clutch fork. I pulled the clutch fork shaft with a 10mm bolt and the fork is just flopping around in there. Is there any trick to disengaging this besides just pulling it up after pulling the pin?

Nothing special... when you pull up on the fork also pull it toward the front of the car. that will disengage it from the bearing.

I'd love to pry somewhere, but there is absolutely no gap between the engine and transmission. It seems I missed something but I'm not sure what.

Thanks in advance,

Andre
If you are sure you have disconnected all nuts and bolts from the tranny and disengaged the fork and removed the motor mounts it should come out. It is sometimes difficult to disengage the engine from the tranny and brute force is the only method. The guide pins are made of steel and they corrode into place sometimes... this is probably the source of your whoas.
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