Re: 2011 sedan wheel alignment..
I got front camber bolts for the bottom hole and maxed them out per the nasioc thread. Then went and got an alignment to -2.1/-1.3. (I know -2.4 showed upw hen he was turning the bolt so there was a bit more left) my stock alignment was -.4ish/-1.3 with tons of toe in(.43/.24 in teh front wtf?). with the bolts before alignment i was at -1.3/-1.3 with a bunch of toe in that made the car lethargic on turn in but still pretty oversteery with the rear bar on stiff. On the track i really appreciated the -2.1/-1.3 setup, but honestly for the street I dont feel its needed. With the heavy rearward bias of our stock springs i had to loosen my rear sway up all the way to get some balance. I am planning to pull the camber bolts and run -1.3ish/-1.3 when i switch back to winters. Personally I tend to shoot for a tiny bit of positive toe. I tell my guy to go for 0 but error on the side of positive so i generally end up with .01-.02 positive total toe.
this setup makes me happy. required camber is to some degree a function of your tires, how you drive, and other suspension functions. I had to run tons of front camber on my bugeye wrx to not destroy the outside of my tires. That issue just doesnt seem to occur on the sti. Possibly relative to caster? The outside inch of my 275's was fairly untouched until i put the car on the track. The molding bumps are still there on the treadface where it meets the sidewall so there is NO rollover with my tire pressure/ camber/suspension/driving setup.
Last edited by Socko; 08-22-11 at 06:28 AM.