Will Spec C Water Tank Fit with CarLab X-Brace?

Rookie84 · 02-17-2007, 06:45 AM

I'm thinking about using Spec C tank for meth injection, but want to know if it'll fit with CarLab X-Brace. Thanks in advance

RainMaker · 02-17-2007, 06:53 AM

no, it will not fit. I'm sure there's some masterful fabrication and things that can be done, but as it is they want to occupy the same space.

fullerton · 02-17-2007, 06:57 AM

yep, its a no go unless you want to spend some time making new mounting hardware.

Rookie84 · 02-17-2007, 02:44 PM

I see. Thanks, guys!

***JDM-STI*** · 02-17-2007, 03:37 PM

IMHO, the Spec C tank being used for your meth would be well worth the loss of your x-brace. I fought an over heating pump and meth boil off issue before I went to the Spec C tank. Since I switched, I have had ZERO issues.

fullerton · 02-17-2007, 04:39 PM

this is a product with some demand. anyone out there have the capability to make a kit?

JJ18Sniper · 02-17-2007, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fullerton

this is a product with some demand. anyone out there have the capability to make a kit?

Definitely wortwhile to do... and should be feasible as the tank will just need to mount in front of the brace. I'd be very interested.

ace996 · 02-17-2007, 08:26 PM

Home Depot sells aluminum flat-bar which I used to custom mount a Cusco catch-can. No doubt this could be used to fabricate new mounting positions for the Spec C tank. I have plans for both the X-brace and the Spec C this Spring...if nobody has done it by then, I'll put up what is needed. Can't be too hard.
Be good,
TomK

fullerton · 02-18-2007, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ace996

Home Depot sells aluminum flat-bar which I used to custom mount a Cusco catch-can. No doubt this could be used to fabricate new mounting positions for the Spec C tank. I have plans for both the X-brace and the Spec C this Spring...if nobody has done it by then, I'll put up what is needed. Can't be too hard.
Be good,
TomK

I agree with you, it can't be too hard. We just need someone with the tools and resources to make a few for a GB.

RacerXS · 02-18-2007, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDM-STI

IMHO, the Spec C tank being used for your meth would be well worth the loss of your x-brace. I fought an over heating pump and meth boil off issue before I went to the Spec C tank. Since I switched, I have had ZERO issues.

You must not have an X-brace....it's definitely NOT worth the loss.

I have had Meth boiling issues and have since switch to a 25% water mixture which solved the problem, but it's not the best solution.

I have checked out installing the Spec-C tank with my X-brace, a bracket could easily be fabbed to fit the tank with the X-brace. It's something I will probably be doing in the near future.

***JDM-STI*** · 02-18-2007, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RacerXS

You must not have an X-brace....it's definitely NOT worth the loss.

I have had Meth boiling issues and have since switch to a 25% water mixture which solved the problem, but it's not the best solution.

I have checked out installing the Spec-C tank with my X-brace, a bracket could easily be fabbed to fit the tank with the X-brace. It's something I will probably be doing in the near future.

Nope, don't have the X-brace, but if it came between my meth kit failing due to heat and having an X-brace, I'm losing the X-brace everytime. Again, just my opinion.

ONARMPG · 02-18-2007, 04:36 PM

I have both the X brace and a Spec C 12L tank. Mine fits great. Easy fix.

It cost me about $20 to make it work. Not too hard at all, just had to think outside the box. It took some running to the hardware store and specialty bolt store for ideas. PM for the exact things you need...
BTW I know that another person, snorky, on here has done it as we exchanged ideas... Damn naysayers

JJ18Sniper · 02-18-2007, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ONARMPG

I have both the X brace and a Spec C 12L tank. Mine fits great. Easy fix.

It cost me about $20 to make it work. Not too hard at all, just had to think outside the box. It took some running to the hardware store and specialty bolt store for ideas. PM for the exact things you need...
BTW I know that another person, snorky, on here has done it as we exchanged ideas... Damn naysayers

Please post additional info, and pictures! Very interested in your method of choice on this.

ONARMPG · 02-18-2007, 05:31 PM

I can give the info, but no pictures as I have no camera (plus I'm lazy)...

Here is the deal... The obvious, You need to move the tank out 2" so it will clear the X-Brace as they want to occupy the same space.

The Spec C tank attaches to the vertical seat rails via four brackets that clamp to the rail. These brackets will be installed just like they are meant to as they clear the X brace with no interference. Now to move the tank out. You can do it two ways.

First way: Get longer bolts and 2" thread spacers. You will need a total of 8: 6mm with a 1.0 thread pattern and I think 60-70 mm in length bolts and 8: 2" thread spacers. You can get these at a specility bolt/screw store. It cost me like $28. Place the thread spacers between the tank and the brackets. Run the longer bolts through the tank and spacers. It should go bolt, washer, tank, spacer, bracket. Although you can't see the final product, I didn't like how ghetto it looked so I went a different route. I like clean installs so I went with more leg work and came up with a cleaner, cheaper route...

Second way... Call Maryland Metric at 800-638-1830 and order 8 standoffs. Part number K-810 6x50 ZP. They are $1.27 a piece plus shipping. My total was $18.63. I then went to my autoparts store and bought some fuel line/water line, etc.. Get big enough line that will slide over the standoffs, like 10mm ID, then cut 8 2" pieces. Install the standoffs into the bracket, then slide the line over the standoff. I then went with a washer, tank, washer, original flange bolt. It should go original bolt, washer, tank, washer, standoff covered with fuel line, bracket. The fuel line doesn't compress much and keeps the tank from moving, plus with a little armor-all cleans up nice.

The key and hard to find part was the standoffs. The spacer can still be thread spacers or the fuel line. You choose. I like the fuel line. It is the best I came up with. I looked for metal or nylon spacers in 2", or combo to make 2", with an ID that would allow the standoffs through. Got sick of looking. Was cleaning mine garage and steped on an old fuel line lying around thanks to my FMIC install. This worked for me. Good luck to those. The only hard part was the leg work, the install is cake...

***JDM-STI*** · 02-18-2007, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ONARMPG

I can give the info, but no pictures as I have no camera (plus I'm lazy)...

I hope none of the members here are "lazy" the first time that you need help...

02-17-2007, 06:45 AM	#1
Rookie84 Spec C Club Car: '93 RX-7 Fav Mod: LS6 and T-56 swap :D Location: Columbus, OH/Northern VA Posts: 1,461 Join Date: Aug 2004 Trader Rating: (3)	Will Spec C Water Tank Fit with CarLab X-Brace? I'm thinking about using Spec C tank for meth injection, but want to know if it'll fit with CarLab X-Brace. Thanks in advance This ad is not endorsed by this member. Please register or login to hide this ad.

02-17-2007, 06:53 AM	#2
RainMaker The Next Petter Solberg Car: 08 Z06 Corvette Fav Mod: Jack Jack Location: Portland, OR Posts: 883 Join Date: Oct 2005 Trader Rating: (3)	no, it will not fit. I'm sure there's some masterful fabrication and things that can be done, but as it is they want to occupy the same space.

02-17-2007, 06:57 AM	#3
fullerton abracious Car: AW GDF-D Fav Mod: Track time Location: Near a 100oct pump Posts: 16,330 Join Date: Oct 2005 Trader Rating: (10)	yep, its a no go unless you want to spend some time making new mounting hardware.

02-17-2007, 02:44 PM	#4
Rookie84 Spec C Club Car: '93 RX-7 Fav Mod: LS6 and T-56 swap :D Location: Columbus, OH/Northern VA Posts: 1,461 Join Date: Aug 2004 Trader Rating: (3)	I see. Thanks, guys!

02-17-2007, 03:37 PM	#5
*JDM-STI* Platinum Member Car: 2005 & 2008 STI Fav Mod: UR 35R and Hydra tune by Scott Siegel :) Location: Columbus, GA Posts: 1,894 Join Date: Mar 2005 Trader Rating: (11)	IMHO, the Spec C tank being used for your meth would be well worth the loss of your x-brace. I fought an over heating pump and meth boil off issue before I went to the Spec C tank. Since I switched, I have had ZERO issues.

02-17-2007, 04:39 PM	#6
fullerton abracious Car: AW GDF-D Fav Mod: Track time Location: Near a 100oct pump Posts: 16,330 Join Date: Oct 2005 Trader Rating: (10)	this is a product with some demand. anyone out there have the capability to make a kit?

02-17-2007, 08:26 PM	#8
ace996 Grassroots STI Racer Car: 06 STI - SGM Fav Mod: HPDE Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 568 Join Date: Dec 2004 Trader Rating: (1)	Home Depot sells aluminum flat-bar which I used to custom mount a Cusco catch-can. No doubt this could be used to fabricate new mounting positions for the Spec C tank. I have plans for both the X-brace and the Spec C this Spring...if nobody has done it by then, I'll put up what is needed. Can't be too hard. Be good, TomK

02-18-2007, 04:36 PM	#12
ONARMPG Junior STI Driver Car: 04 STi PSM Fav Mod: New Car Scent Tree Airfreshner Location: Bremerton, WA Posts: 51 Join Date: Feb 2004 Trader Rating: (2)	I have both the X brace and a Spec C 12L tank. Mine fits great. Easy fix. It cost me about $20 to make it work. Not too hard at all, just had to think outside the box. It took some running to the hardware store and specialty bolt store for ideas. PM for the exact things you need... BTW I know that another person, snorky, on here has done it as we exchanged ideas... Damn naysayers

02-18-2007, 05:31 PM	#14
ONARMPG Junior STI Driver Car: 04 STi PSM Fav Mod: New Car Scent Tree Airfreshner Location: Bremerton, WA Posts: 51 Join Date: Feb 2004 Trader Rating: (2)	I can give the info, but no pictures as I have no camera (plus I'm lazy)... Here is the deal... The obvious, You need to move the tank out 2" so it will clear the X-Brace as they want to occupy the same space. The Spec C tank attaches to the vertical seat rails via four brackets that clamp to the rail. These brackets will be installed just like they are meant to as they clear the X brace with no interference. Now to move the tank out. You can do it two ways. First way: Get longer bolts and 2" thread spacers. You will need a total of 8: 6mm with a 1.0 thread pattern and I think 60-70 mm in length bolts and 8: 2" thread spacers. You can get these at a specility bolt/screw store. It cost me like $28. Place the thread spacers between the tank and the brackets. Run the longer bolts through the tank and spacers. It should go bolt, washer, tank, spacer, bracket. Although you can't see the final product, I didn't like how ghetto it looked so I went a different route. I like clean installs so I went with more leg work and came up with a cleaner, cheaper route... Second way... Call Maryland Metric at 800-638-1830 and order 8 standoffs. Part number K-810 6x50 ZP. They are $1.27 a piece plus shipping. My total was $18.63. I then went to my autoparts store and bought some fuel line/water line, etc.. Get big enough line that will slide over the standoffs, like 10mm ID, then cut 8 2" pieces. Install the standoffs into the bracket, then slide the line over the standoff. I then went with a washer, tank, washer, original flange bolt. It should go original bolt, washer, tank, washer, standoff covered with fuel line, bracket. The fuel line doesn't compress much and keeps the tank from moving, plus with a little armor-all cleans up nice. The key and hard to find part was the standoffs. The spacer can still be thread spacers or the fuel line. You choose. I like the fuel line. It is the best I came up with. I looked for metal or nylon spacers in 2", or combo to make 2", with an ID that would allow the standoffs through. Got sick of looking. Was cleaning mine garage and steped on an old fuel line lying around thanks to my FMIC install. This worked for me. Good luck to those. The only hard part was the leg work, the install is cake...