[Dsycks]

Steve, what do you think about doing top mounts that add camber/caster in lieu of adjustable plates? Bad idea?

Also, I know the fronts have the big beefy bearing at the top but what about the backs? Are you doing a top mount for those or should I consider something back there as well?

I still defer to you as I just know what I want my car to be able to do... I'll just collect knowledge and send money. Speaking of which... I need your address again if you could PM or email it to me.

[Dsycks]

Originally Posted by JD_STI

I ordered these coils from Steve. He recommended the Noltec pillow ball mounts in the front & Cusco camber plates in the rear. Problem is I can't find them anywhere.

Do you mean Cusco plates in front and Pillow ball mounts in the rear or are Evos and STIs that much different?

[Dsycks]

Here is a link to some folks who can get you Cusco plates or the new Whiteline plates which I find to be very interesting.

HSPN TV - HD Videos on Demand - Powered by HSPN Networks, LLC

I also note that there IS a Whiteline Roll Center kit as well as multiple options for rear pillow ball mounts.

[JD_STI]

Originally Posted by Dsycks

Do you mean Cusco plates in front and Pillow ball mounts in the rear or are Evos and STIs that much different?

Noltec camber/caster plate in front & Cusco camber plate in rear.

[donour]

Originally Posted by Dsycks

Out of curiosity... what are other folks thinking about as far as camber plates, yes or no? I'm also thinking about using the Whiteline Roll Center adjustment kit (as well as their new camber/caster plates) which I am not sure if there is an STI version of.

I shipped Steve a set of ground control camber/caster plates and works rear pillowball mounts back before christmas to verify fitment. His recommendation was the Tein's because both the front and rear are known to work. You can get the fronts for ~150 and rear for ~175 from various internet sources.

As a matter of fact... anyone else think it may be more simple to just do a very simple non adjustable plate that gives max camber and maybe some built in caster as well? It would cost less and we still have the ability to add positive camber for the street.

For a trailer car, maybe. For a street car, you'll want to adjust your camber and toe at event event. You probably don't want to be messing with the eccetric bolt which requires 100+ ft.lbs of torque. I say plates are easier.

d

[donour]

Originally Posted by Dsycks

Do you mean Cusco plates in front and Pillow ball mounts in the rear or are Evos and STIs that much different?

All but the most recent STis have struts in the back. Our Evos have mulitink. Camber is adjusted differently (and needs much less static camber).

d

[lovesmysuby]

Hey Steve will you be finished with your cc plates around the same time as the EM's? I'm still up in the air on which ones to purchase with my setup.
Will these have mounts for the brake lines on the strut body, from the pics on your site I don't think your competion coils have these that is why I ask?

[Dsycks]

Good question on the brake line brackets.

donour- are you the other evo who is in on this as well? If so, nice to meet you.

[donour]

Originally Posted by Dsycks

Good question on the brake line brackets.

Well the Evo bracket is removable. You just need the right sized bolt welded on and you can use the stock one.

donour- are you the other evo who is in on this as well? If so, nice to meet you.

Yeah that's me. There's only two of us huh?

d

[zzyzx]

Originally Posted by lovesmysuby

Hey Steve will you be finished with your cc plates around the same time as the EM's?

No unfortunately, I won't.

Originally Posted by lovesmysuby

Will these have mounts for the brake lines on the strut body, from the pics on your site I don't think your competion coils have these that is why I ask?

Yes, they will. There will be a mount on the backside of the strut body, and a separate bracket that bolts onto that mount.

[zzyzx]

Originally Posted by JD_STI

Noltec camber/caster plate in front & Cusco camber plate in rear.

Correct. I don't recommend the CUSCOs for up front because they bend. Mine did and a # of other people I know had similar experiences.

[zzyzx]

Originally Posted by Dsycks

Steve, what do you think about doing top mounts that add camber/caster in lieu of adjustable plates? Bad idea?

I recommend an adjustable camber/caster plate.

Originally Posted by Dsycks

Also, I know the fronts have the big beefy bearing at the top but what about the backs? Are you doing a top mount for those or should I consider something back there as well?

Get the Tein, HKS or similar rear mount for the Evo. These actually incorporate an upper spring perch, also. Better yet, just ask Donour and get what he did.

Originally Posted by Dsycks

Speaking of which... I need your address again if you could PM or email it to me.

Email sent.

[zzyzx]

Ok, I thought these would give you a good idea of what the coilovers look like.

These are static pics of the solid models in SolidWorks.



















Now... some of you will note a few features and may not know what they are. In fact, let's see who can figure it out first:

1) Mystery Feature #1 - What are the vertical grooves in the threaded portion of the strut body for?

2) Mystery Feature #2 - What is the horizontal groove about an inch below the threaded portion of the strut body for?

[donour]

Originally Posted by zzyzx

1) Mystery Feature #1 - What are the vertical grooves in the threaded portion of the strut body for?

Groove for locking set screws?

2) Mystery Feature #2 - What is the horizontal groove about an inch below the threaded portion of the strut body for?

Got me. I'll think about it.

d

[zzyzx]

Here are two test units installed on my 2.5 RS. These were used to confirm fitment, bump & droop travel, etc.

The first picture illustrates droop travel. Certainly enough unless you plan to spend significant time airborn.



The next two pics illustrate the range in adjustment of the camber bolt mechanism I designed as seen in previous posts here in this thread.

Note that I have Noltec plates up front, set to full negative. The first pic is of the camber bolt set to full positive. The second pic is with the camber bolt set to full negative.

Note that these are 16 X 8.5" +37 wheels & 245/45-16 Hoosiers. That's why at full positive the wheel looks like it's sticking outside the fender. It is. You need to run a certain about of negative camber for this combo to clear in the front.




I'm not sure you'll need the camber plate AND camber bolt set to full negative. However, if you didn't have camber plates, as you can see there's plenty of adjustment w/o them.