[aus_taz]

So I keep ruining my wheel studs/nuts, I believe this is due to heat coming from the brakes as it happens after each track day, rotors have seen 1100F sustained temps. I'm looking for someone who has been through this and found a solution.

I do not over torque them, I don't re torque right after after a run but instead wait for them to cool. However when putting the stock wheels back on at the end of the weekend I will have trouble with one or more nuts not going on right, they will go on with some care but afterwards will only unscrew about 1 turn before locking up and I have to break the stud to get them off.

So far I have had to replace about 10 of the stock nuts and 2 wheel studs.

Anyone got some advise?

[sciolist]

My application is a little different, as I'm using the car primarily for autoX.

I've been using ARP studs and H&R nuts for two seasons now. The main two reasons I got the studs were 1.) to have the ability to experiment with different spacers and 2.) on the theory that harder material would have less tendency to strip. Both the studs and nuts have proved much more durable than OE parts. Throwing out a guess, I'll say I probably swap wheels about 200 times a season.

Another nice thing about the ARP's is that they have leaders, so starting the nuts is less likely to result in cross-threading.

I don't know what to tell you about shear strength and impact resistance as a function of hardness in the studs, although that information shouldn't be hard to come by. At some point, the less ductile parts are going to be weaker. Just in terms of cycling, the ARP's are definitely way more durable, though.

I think high-quality steel nuts are a must for anyone who's serious about reliability.

I also think it's helpful to have dissimilarity in the composition of the studs and nuts in terms of durability. Given that, it seems like you want the part that's more difficult to replace to be the harder of the two. I would also carry spare nuts and not be shy about replacing them... and keep a light coat of anti-seize on the threads.

[Turninconcepts.com]

Never had a problem with a stock stud on the TiC STi, the TiC WRX or the wife's outback.

If a lug nut feels a little catchy and odd it gets tossed and replaced no questions asked.

What are you torquing to?

[fullerton]

I swapped to ARP's in the rear after breaking a stud. The way I see it, if the stock hardware can't handle something and breaks, it is time for an upgrade.

I'll do the fronts when I get around to it, but I can say that the ARP's feel much stronger than the stockers.

The only problem is that they are kinda a bish to install.

[fullerton]

how'd you install the real ARps sciolist?

[sciolist]

Originally Posted by fullerton

how'd you install the real ARps sciolist?

I did them along with the hubs.

[fullerton]

Originally Posted by sciolist

I did them along with the hubs.

that would make it much easier!

do you need new seals when you disassemble hubs?

[aus_taz]

Torque to 80 ft/lb. Both times a stud broke I had a not that was catching and still used it as I was tired, end of a weekend etc. But I have also tossed about 10 other nuts that were catching.

From this and some other threads I'm going to install a set of APR studs this winter and howfully not have to worry about it anymore.

[sciolist]

Originally Posted by fullerton

do you need new seals when you disassemble hubs?

Not completely sure what you're asking here. I swapped up to the 5/114 hubs, so that was the whole deal - knuckle and hub.

When I previously did the bearings in the 5/100 hubs, yes, I replaced the seals.

I think the m.o. with the 5/114's is to just replace the whole unit, so presumably you would not be re-packing bearings there.

[fullerton]

Originally Posted by sciolist

Not completely sure what you're asking here. I swapped up to the 5/114 hubs, so that was the whole deal - knuckle and hub.

When I previously did the bearings in the 5/100 hubs, yes, I replaced the seals.

I think the m.o. with the 5/114's is to just replace the whole unit, so presumably you would not be re-packing bearings there.

you basically answered my question.

without removal of the hub, the only way ARP studs fit is to trim a couple mm off the fat end and slide them through the ABS sensor hole. not the best way to do it, but it works.

[sciolist]

Yeah, I guess they were working with off-the-shelf sensors. That really is a frustratingly near miss, in terms of being able to install rear studs through the port. I'm thinking more along the lines of replacing one at a race event than doing the whole set with that comment.

This was something I knew in advance I'd want to do, so I bundled it together with the hub swap. Fortunately my OE studs held up okay to that point... but there was always that fear of borking one at an away game.

That's one of those things that's going to happen 10 hours from home, Sunday afternoon, when you're the last one on the lot. Or maybe someone is trying to help you out with a wheel.... Lousy situation either way.

[fullerton]

i would carry a few stock studs with you for cases like that.

[fullerton]

or pre-fit arp's