[gabedude]

Yeah thats right. Like I said that week I did 4 tunes, so I am going from memory. 2 of them had aftermarket BCS, one had an MBC. If you only needed to reduce WGDC 15%, then TD could be ok stock. Also, I set init and max WGDC pretty close so TD is not as big of a deal.

[XPT Tuning]

I've had good results with minor TD changes when upgrading turbos on 32-bit. 16-bit required a lot of change. The GM BCS has been rock solid for me through 5 turbos.

[gabedude]

I hate tuning the boost on the 16 bit ECUs. I almost always recommend an MBC/EBC for those guys (unless the person wants me to tune it with the stock boost control logic). I never can seem to get rock solid boost without overboosting at least 1-2 PSI. The 32 bit ECUs are great with aftermarket BCS's though.

[gabedude]

So are we gonna BBQ or what? Anyone have ideas?

BTW, make sure to bring a paper cup or a plastic cup to put your beer in. Beer cans and beer bottles (of course glass is not allowed) are not supposed to be visible on the lake (they can give you some kind of ticket or some crap). I can't believe that that law passed in Travis county. Like it is going to stop the amount of alcohol consumed at the lake. Jeez.

[FlyingPerformance]

dont care, what time are we doing this?

I gotta look at my car some more. I am actually in Austin this morning, heading back to work. I spent some time trying to go over my car with the multi-meter, like the shop manual steps say, and some how I ****ed it up worse. Now it doesnt even think the damn sensor is plugged in and is constantly reading 14.7:1. Maybe I didnt get something seated back properly on the ECU, but I dont have time this morning to **** with it any more. **** THIS CAR. I think I may take Dave's suggestion and put the stock downpipe back on, borrow an STI TMIC(can I borrow Tess's for a few days, she can use the TurboXS one) and the stock air box, flash it back to stock and take it to the dealership and say fix it.

[gabedude]

We plan on meeting up at noon at the HEB. It is reading 14.7:1 now? Log AFC #1 and AFL #1. If AFC is moving around a bit, then it is working now. Intermittent shorts are hard to find.

You'd have to ask Tess about using her TMIC.

[FlyingPerformance]

no its showing 14.7:1, not changing at all, I drove it around and even under boost its stuck at 14.7:1 and its throwing a code(code pops up 30 seconds after ECU reset). Dont know what code, dont have a code scanner. I think I am gonna drive my car off a cliff.

[gabedude]

That must be the default. Did you monitor open loop. closed loop status? I bet it is at 7 (error open loop). You'll be fine without the front O2 for a bit. At least it won't learn to run so damn rich, but without AFC, your idle prolly sucks. It is a small issue (but obviously hard to diagnose and fix). If it was my car (since you have a new front O2) I would just buy a new harness for the O2 sensor and route it. Trust me, I know what it feels like to want to drive the car off of a cliff lol. I wanted to push mine off for the longest time. I am hoping that these forged dropins last a good bit now. We will see.

Hell I ripped a coolant line last night. I did find the atmospheric pressure sensor (it is inside the valve that attaches to the head which attaches to the smog pump). I still need to get some air out of my power steering and charge the AC.

[FlyingPerformance]

You cant just get a new harness for the o2 sensor, it is all integrated into the ECU wiring harness. There is only a plug between the actual o2 sensor and the main wiring harness, no other harnesses to be changed, unless I change the whole ECU wiring harness. I think I am just gonna return it to stock and take it up to the dealership(even if I have to pay for it). Yea it idles fine for about 30 seconds, then the CEL pops up and the idle goes to ****.

[gabedude]

Well, that sucks. Hopefully it won't be too outrageous if they charge you. You would think that the problem has to be at the connector. It started occurring when you put those headers on.

[FlyingPerformance]

Yea, but then I took them off, put the stock manifold back on, and changed the o2 sensor. I am just gonna take it to Billy and say fix it. Hopefully it is something stupid.

[gabedude]

Hopefully. It has to be a short that was intermittent now you have made it a solid short. At least there is discontinuity in the circuit all the time now. Now where that discontinuity is located at is the hard part. If it is in the ECU (say a resistor or something), then that's not good. Hopefully it is just a shorted wire against the chassis.

[FlyingPerformance]

If its in the ECU, I am getting the AEM(I am probably gonna get it anyway, just wanna get this sorted before I put in a new piece of hardware). I am gonna release the wires from the plug on the chassis side of the harness and see if one of them has broken inside the plug, its not hard to pull that plug off, its the same type of plug as the one I remove for the EBCS kits. I will probably do that sunday morning and check it out. I didnt even think of that this morning since I was short on time.

[gabedude]

Ok we washed the cars today, I fixed my coolant and power steering problem. Ready to go for tomorrow.

Tess's car:


My car (100 miles on new motor):

[FlyingPerformance]

bump for my car being broke. Its not the plugs, pulled each wire out tonight and checked them, no broke wires in the plugs at least. I guess its up to the dealership I go.