[Turninconcepts.com]

Alright. Here goes with the write up and proper install instructions for the Whiteline rear endlinks for the 08. Let me know if you guys have any questions.

I have heard a couple people complain about torn boots during the isntall. First and foremost, make sure you push the boots ALL the way on the rod ends. If you do it correctly, they will stay for a little while making the install easier.



Assuming you already have the stock endlinks removed, loosen the lower shock bolt on the control arm. It's the bolt that is half cutoff on the right side of this pic. Loosen it till the nut is just about off the bolt. This will allow the control arm to widen a little bit.



Next take one of the spacers and the bolt that comes with the kit and begin to install. Place the bolt through the control arm, then the spacer. Now add one of the rod ends. It will look like this.



This next part is the one people have been having problems with. Getting the other spacer installed on the other side of the rod end. The easiest way I have found to do this is to get the spacer started, then tap it into position with a hammer. I have done this many times and it always works.

This first pic shows the other spacer in the starting position. It is BARELY resting between the control arm and rod end. It is very difficult to get it to this position if the other spacer and rod end are not inline with the control arm....meaning, they can't be at an angle and still get the other spacer into the starting position. You may have to work at this a little, but it shouldn't take more than a couple tries.



Now tap the spacer with hammer till you get it close to position. You will likely not get it perfect, but you will get it close enough for the next step. It will probably look something like this when you tap it down.



Take the stock endlinks bolt that goes through the control arm and put it into the hole as far as it will go. You will notice that the stock endlink bolt comes to a point. This bolt will help line up the spacer. Once the bolt is inserted, tap it with a hammer to line up the spacer. Remove the bolt and replace with bolt and nut from kit.

Finished product with spacers installed.




That's the tough part. Everything else goes together as one would expect and as the instructions indicate. Make sure you don't try to put washers on the inside of the control arm. They are suppose to go on the outside.

Hope that helps.

Tony

[cky3396]

are torque specs included with the kit? how about torque for the loosened lower shock bolt on the control arm?

nice writeup. i posted a link to this thread in the GR HowTo Sticky.

[GilMikalian]

The specs...

[Digitalfiend]

I'm using a solid rear endlink (Group-A opposed style endlink) with the 22mm adj WL bar (set on the middle hole) and have heard no noises or any clunking.

[sleepyhead]

I have a question about the Rear Stabilizer PDF instructions. There is a note stating: "Always tighten the stabilizer bushing in the state where the vehicle is at curb weight and the wheels are in full contact with the ground." Did you guys do this? I was under the impression that i would have to unload the wheels to do all the work. Thanks

[Digitalfiend]

With the wheels loaded, I had no issues removing the endlinks/bolts. I know when we tried to make an adjustment at the track with my '05, we had to jack up a wheel to get the swaybar hole and endlink centre to lineup as the bolt was not coming out.

[Turninconcepts.com]

You're supposed to torque to final spec with the car under it's own weight. This is so that you do not have any odd preload in any of the suspension bits. Common practice really. If you have spherical bearing endlinks though it won't matter as the bearings will spin with the bar movement.

Tony

[Turninconcepts.com]

Originally Posted by Digitalfiend

I'm using a solid rear endlink (Group-A opposed style endlink) with the 22mm adj WL bar (set on the middle hole) and have heard no noises or any clunking.

I had a set of Group A's for quite some time. They worked fine, but didn't fit my strange bar setup very well. Plus they made adjusting the bar very difficult due to the inflexibility ofthe bushings.

Tony

[sysfailur]

Excellent info in here! I refuse to pay someone to do this, must do it tomorrow lol

[caveguru]

Installed the Perrin rear endlinks last week. No issues- easier to get in than the OEM ones were to remove.

Frank

[Red08onGOLD]

There not all that bad i have Rallitek F/R Sway bars rear endlinks and AVO front endlinks

[Beaverboy]

I installed the adjustable Whiteline RSB with the RalliteK rear endlinks. I went with the RalliteKs because I felt like A) the OEM style socket and boot would prove to fare better with the salt roads I drive 5 months of the years and B) the price was right.

My issue with them is that the urethane bushings on the bottom mean that I see some binding if I try to use anything other than the center hole on my swaybar. I'd prefer to use a dual spherical setup like the Whitelines.. but I don't know that I can trust those little add-on boots. I had the old spherical Perrin endlinks on the back of my 2.5RS for years.. but I had to clean them and lube them after each winter.

I'm not happy with the short swaybar arm design (Subaru's design.. not Whiteline) as it is, because the swaybar is only acting vertically on the control arm for a very short portion of it's travel. I wonder if adding some spacers to the swaybar mounts to push the bar rearward would be beneficial for using the end (soft) hole.. or if it would just put too much stress on the mount ears on the rear subframe. Any input, Tony/Clint?

[Turninconcepts.com]

Originally Posted by Beaverboy

I installed the adjustable Whiteline RSB with the RalliteK rear endlinks. I went with the RalliteKs because I felt like A) the OEM style socket and boot would prove to fare better with the salt roads I drive 5 months of the years and B) the price was right.

My issue with them is that the urethane bushings on the bottom mean that I see some binding if I try to use anything other than the center hole on my swaybar. I'd prefer to use a dual spherical setup like the Whitelines.. but I don't know that I can trust those little add-on boots. I had the old spherical Perrin endlinks on the back of my 2.5RS for years.. but I had to clean them and lube them after each winter.

I'm not happy with the short swaybar arm design (Subaru's design.. not Whiteline) as it is, because the swaybar is only acting vertically on the control arm for a very short portion of it's travel. I wonder if adding some spacers to the swaybar mounts to push the bar rearward would be beneficial for using the end (soft) hole.. or if it would just put too much stress on the mount ears on the rear subframe. Any input, Tony/Clint?

The 22mm bar is plenty bar for this car. On full stiff like we have it (running a kartboy 25mm hollow bar that is equivalent in stiffness to teh whiteline 22 on the stiffest setting) it feels very good. You shouldn't have to do anything to make effective use of the sway on any setting with stock style endlinks. It is a bit difficult to adjust with bushing style endlinks, but they work fine.

[Beaverboy]

Originally Posted by Turninconcepts.com

The 22mm bar is plenty bar for this car.

No kidding! That's why I want to soften it.

Originally Posted by Turninconcepts.com

On full stiff like we have it (running a kartboy 25mm hollow bar that is equivalent in stiffness to teh whiteline 22 on the stiffest setting) it feels very good. You shouldn't have to do anything to make effective use of the sway on any setting with stock style endlinks. It is a bit difficult to adjust with bushing style endlinks, but they work fine.

Thanks for the reassurance.

[MEXSTIMPREZA]

Subscribing (in order to find the thread easier, I will be installing them today).
Again, thanks TiC.
BTW any write ups on Whiteline´s ALK and Rear Camber Bushings? (sorry).