[DrPhyzx]

Originally Posted by Turninconcepts.com

Something's up with the server. Checking it now.

Ok - let me know if you can see the pics now.

Yup... got em. Disappointing you couldn't get lower than -1.0 in back. I thought stock was supposed to be -1.5 but maybe yours was a bit more. Any chance WL will rework this for a broader range (which makes fine adjustment harder) or in some way that gives an offset? It'd be nice to be able to go from, say, 0 to -1.5.

What did you think of the ease of adjustment? Resistance to slipping? BTW, I've never run camber bolts but everyone talks about slipping. How big a problem is this for bolts (front) when everything is properly torqued?

[Turninconcepts.com]

There is no way to get any more adjustment out of them with a design like this. Maybe mine was a bit different to start. No way of knowing since I did not have the alignment checked before this.

Slipping shouldn't be an issue with these if tightened properly. If you put camber bolts in the bottoms holes on the front you will not have any slipping issues.

[calves]

also surprised that you can only get 1.0*. My stock camber (with a custom sound weighing up the rear, see journal) was 1.2* left and 1.4* right. so all that bushing change and it only removes .2 to .4*???? seems way too low, imho.

well, i guess the only way to find out is to try the bushings. when are they going on sale? and know of any decent shops who can swap out the bushings for a reasonable price in los angeles??

[Turninconcepts.com]

Originally Posted by calves

also surprised that you can only get 1.0*. My stock camber (with a custom sound weighing up the rear, see journal) was 1.2* left and 1.4* right. so all that bushing change and it only removes .2 to .4*???? seems way too low, imho.

well, i guess the only way to find out is to try the bushings. when are they going on sale? and know of any decent shops who can swap out the bushings for a reasonable price in los angeles??

they are available now.

When you start talking tenths of a degree do not forget overall manu. tolerances. That can play quite a bit into it.

As for LA - any decent machine shop should be able to press out the small bushings. Heck, some creativity with some sockets and a C-clamp, and you could do it yourself. As for the large bushings. I'm not advocating burning them, but....

[caveguru]

Not sure I'm understanding everyone, but are you saying the factory camber was negative 1.2 to 1.4 degrees, and you wanted it to be less negative? On a GD car, this would typically reduce rear traction in corners. What am I missing?

Frank

[waktasz]

The new rear suspension gains a ton of camber under compression. Starting with 1.4 might end you up with double that, or more, mid-corner, which might be too much, depending on the application.

[calves]

yes, my factory suspension was negative 1.2 to 1.4, and I would want to lower that to zero to 0.5, for exactly the reason waktasz stated above. =)

[wrxtunerd]

So if I get lowering springs, will I get crazy accelerated tire wear? I'm talking a moderate drop, like .5" in rear and 1" up front.

[Turninconcepts.com]

Camber has little to do with tire wear. Toe is a much larger factor in tire wear. If you keep it at 0 you can run up to -3* or so without any tire wear issues.

[caveguru]

Originally Posted by Turninconcepts.com

Camber has little to do with tire wear. Toe is a much larger factor in tire wear. If you keep it at 0 you can run up to -3* or so without any tire wear issues.

respectfully can't agree with that at all. In the final weeks of my last set of Pilot A/S's, the -2.6* of front camber that I'm running clearly increased the wear rate on the inside 1-2 inches of tire tread. I can post pictures. Toe was 0.02 or better from a fresh alignment. My track tires are wearing more evenly, but I spend very little time going straight or at anything less than 0.5g on those.

Frank

[calves]

+1 caveguru. camber will definitely have higher tire wear on the inside, depending on type of driving (assuming a lot of straight with limited turns). also, some tires (azenis comes to mind) are thicker on the inside to compensate for the higher tire wear from running higher camber.

[caveguru]

Originally Posted by calves

also, some tires (azenis comes to mind) are thicker on the inside to compensate for the higher tire wear from running higher camber.

I did not know that. I'll have to research that some more for my next set of stickies.

Frank

[Turninconcepts.com]

Originally Posted by caveguru

respectfully can't agree with that at all. In the final weeks of my last set of Pilot A/S's, the -2.6* of front camber that I'm running clearly increased the wear rate on the inside 1-2 inches of tire tread. I can post pictures. Toe was 0.02 or better from a fresh alignment. My track tires are wearing more evenly, but I spend very little time going straight or at anything less than 0.5g on those.

Frank

I have been running at least -3* of camber on my cars for the last few years and have always had even tire wear as long as toe was 0...and I mean 0. I definitely take corners spiritedly which helps and don't do too much highway cruising. Most people have no problems with tire wear running this much camber with 0 toe with limited highway cruising.

[caveguru]

Originally Posted by Turninconcepts.com

with limited highway cruising.

That's the clincher right there. I've been driving a ~450 mile roundtrip to PA, all hwy, about once a week since last fall. I try to even it out as much as possible around town and on an occasional fun drive, but I was losing the battle. I'll probably keep the front at ~-1.5* for now, but I am definitely looking forward to learning more about rear and getting that dialed in.

Frank

[Turninconcepts.com]

Originally Posted by caveguru

That's the clincher right there. I've been driving a ~450 mile roundtrip to PA, all hwy, about once a week since last fall. I try to even it out as much as possible around town and on an occasional fun drive, but I was losing the battle. I'll probably keep the front at ~-1.5* for now, but I am definitely looking forward to learning more about rear and getting that dialed in.

Frank

Ahh....that explains it. Yeah, if you don't do too much highway cruising you can get aware with lots of camber.