[AnorexicSTI]

Here is my setup:

2750 lb car with 58/42 or possibly 57/43 weight distribution.

COBB front and rear swaybars with COBB endlinks. Rear swaybar set in the middle setting.

Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 245/40/17 for track
Bridgestone RE-01R 245/40/17 soon to be Michelin Pilot PS/2 235/40/17 of
245/40/17 for street

Ohlins Flag coilovers - what ride height do u guys recommend?

Whiteline Sport anti-lift kit

PDE camber plates set in the castor/camber position so that negative camber AND castor is added as the upper point is moved inwards

1. Very little roll and weight transfer as it is due to the light weight. The outside of the tires wear a BIT more than the insides at the track, but not extremely so.

2. Last settings were roughly -1.0 camber all the way around due to the increased ride height. Toe was 1/8" total (1/16" per side) Castor was slightly less than stock due to increased ride height (all the weight reduction raised the car). I definitely want more than -1 that I had last time, but not too much more since I like to increase in steps and I have 1 more event Oct. 12th as well to try something.

I was thinking -1.75 in front and -1.5 camber in the rear. Maybe going back to 1/16" total toe (1/32" per side). Max castor from the PDE plates and then back off using stock camber bolts.

I was told it's important to match the front and rear camber settings so they are not too far apart otherwise I will get oversteer. I don't want too much negative camber in front because then braking is affected. I also don't want too much negative camber in the rear because then traction limited acceleration (ie. off the line in 1st gear when drag racing) is affected.

This car sees track and street time.

I will then install the 6 gun kit for the next time and POSSIBLY do the free castor mod (but with all my mods I doubt I need to do the free castor mod).

[SWortham]

Sounds like you have a good starting point figured out already. I think you will find that a little more negative camber will be desirable though. I'd aim for something more like -2.2 degrees front / -1.8 degrees rear camber. Even if the car doesn't roll much the tires will deform in the corners, hence the need for the negative camber. And that's still a mild enough setting that I don't think it will affect braking distances too much.

By the way, I knew you were all about making your STI light. But 2,750 pounds?! Nice work!

[Track]

I'd be interested in ride height recommendations as well. I'm on COs + sways and I know I'm set very low right now.

Currently running -2.0F -1.0R with 0 toe all around and loving it. What is the "free" caster mod you're referring to?

[02wrbrex1]

Originally Posted by SgtKarj

I'd be interested in ride height recommendations as well. I'm on COs + sways and I know I'm set very low right now.

Currently running -2.0F -1.0R with 0 toe all around and loving it. What is the "free" caster mod you're referring to?

the free caster mod is twisting the top of your coilovers so your camber plates add caster and camber at the same time.

[Track]

Oh that makes sense! Thanks for the explanation.

[AnorexicSTI]

Originally Posted by 02wrbrex1

the free caster mod is twisting the top of your coilovers so your camber plates add caster and camber at the same time.

Actuially that is the 2nd free castor mod... the free castor mod as most people know it is to flip the pin on the lower control arm... but it comes with a price... one of the bushings gets stressed... I think with my anti lift kit and also angling my PDE plates so that it goes in AND back, I will have tons of castor.

[r12rex]

AnorexicSTi,

Sounds like quite a set-up you have there. I think your alignment settings would be a good baseline set-up.

I have RCE T2s with ALK, Sways, Ball Joint extenders, etc., etc.

Get yourself corner balanced. That will make quite a bit difference.

My alignment is set to right around your "settings"


-1.7 front
-1.3 rear
0 Toe

The front camber plate has room to give more negative camber up front for the track. This also allows for some toe out. Perfect for the track! With my RCE plates, if I go 3 notches, I'll be at roughly -2 camber up front with 1/16 toe out.

Set your camber plates this way so when you are on the street, your tires don't wear unevenly.

Again, this is just a suggestion. Good luck and let us know!

BTW. My car rotates quite nicely with this set-up. I think it's just PERFECT!



Kind Regards,
Ryan

[AnorexicSTI]

Here is what I got:

LF - 6.1 castor, 1.6 camber, 1/32" toe out
RF - 5.9 castor, 1.7 camber, 1/32" toe out
LR - 1.2 camber, 0 toe
RR - 1.0 camber, 0 toe

Stock castor is about 4.5 but mine originally was 3.9 due to the raised height from the 500 lbs of weight reduction... but with the coilovers and PDE plates, I was able to get it up to 6 degrees! I maxed out the PDE plates and then brought the camber back to 1.6-1.7 with the stock camber bolts.

I will see if I can get the rear camber equal next time out... I wonder how much more positive castor the Whiteline ALK will give me. I doubt I will even need to do the free castor mod after all this. 6+ deg is plenty!

Does anyone know what effect the 6 gun ball joint extender kit has on alignment?

I need to install the ALK and 6 gun kit before next even in October. I was possibly planning to install both SEPARATELY to see what effect each had, but if somebody can give me an idea of what will happen, that would be beneficial.

[flatthump]

I think you should chalk your tires to get an idea of Camber alignment. I have no idea how yout weight loss will affect tire and body roll. I mean, I could suggest the age old 'recommended' STi alignment settings, but I dont think that'd do you any good

[AnorexicSTI]

Originally Posted by flatthump

I think you should chalk your tires to get an idea of Camber alignment. I have no idea how yout weight loss will affect tire and body roll. I mean, I could suggest the age old 'recommended' STi alignment settings, but I dont think that'd do you any good

Less weight = less weight transfer, but depending on where the weight is removed, may actually increase roll due to increased center of gravity. However, I am confident that with my mods, I have either kept the same or lowered the center of gravity (before lowering it with the coilovers). I've removed a lot of "up top weight" such as the wing, trunk, hood scoop, grab handles, sun visors, low IC fluid, no windshield washer fluid, battery relocated to under passenger seat, no Air conditioning... the only really low things are headers, the u-brace, and the CF driveshaft... everything else was more or less in the "middle" heightwise (brakes, fans, seats, etc, spare tire, etc.)

Overall though, I get a lot less body roll than a stock STI... and the fact each tire sees a lot less load rolls it over less. I can't beleive the incredible tire wear I get. It's gonna take forever to wear these tires out... even with the way I drive on the track, pushing it right to the limit on every turn. Reminds me on my Honda... where on a 2600 lb GSR, my tires would get relatively fast tire wear and then 800 lbs lighter in a stripped out VX, I could go all race season on 1 set of tires and still have some left over for practice for next year LOL. Weight reduction ROCKS!!!

[evilSTi7]

i think you should run more camber in the front. -2.5 in the front and around -1.5 in the rear would be a very nice setup. Also what ride height did you end up settling on?

also, im not positive, but you might need to get a new alignment when you install the alk.

[flatthump]

Originally Posted by AnorexicSTI

Less weight = less weight transfer, but depending on where the weight is removed, may actually increase roll due to increased center of gravity. However, I am confident that with my mods, I have either kept the same or lowered the center of gravity (before lowering it with the coilovers). I've removed a lot of "up top weight" such as the wing, trunk, hood scoop, grab handles, sun visors, low IC fluid, no windshield washer fluid, battery relocated to under passenger seat, no Air conditioning... the only really low things are headers, the u-brace, and the CF driveshaft... everything else was more or less in the "middle" heightwise (brakes, fans, seats, etc, spare tire, etc.)

Overall though, I get a lot less body roll than a stock STI... and the fact each tire sees a lot less load rolls it over less. I can't beleive the incredible tire wear I get. It's gonna take forever to wear these tires out... even with the way I drive on the track, pushing it right to the limit on every turn. Reminds me on my Honda... where on a 2600 lb GSR, my tires would get relatively fast tire wear and then 800 lbs lighter in a stripped out VX, I could go all race season on 1 set of tires and still have some left over for practice for next year LOL. Weight reduction ROCKS!!!

Ya I agree....but I know you want a perfect aligment.....and none if us can give you that. I know your asking for recommendations...as for that I agree with EvilSti.

But I think u should chalk the tires at the track.....preferably when you the only one on it