[FlyinbySTi]

I order the rear camber plates because I didn't want to be bothered with bolts and getting stuck with the car being a DD and the NE winters.

[IGoFast1589]

Originally Posted by FlyinbySTi

I order the rear camber plates because I didn't want to be bothered with bolts and getting stuck with the car being a DD and the NE winters.

Good call.

[twiSTies]

Originally Posted by FlyinbySTi

I order the rear camber plates because I didn't want to be bothered with bolts and getting stuck with the car being a DD and the NE winters.

Yeah, I bought the coilovers before the rear plates were available, otherwise I would have done the same thing.

[IGoFast1589]

How much more do the plates cost on top of the coilovers?

[IMPORTIMAGE]

pm sent, ps i got word this morning that due to fuel and the decline of the US dollar, a $50 price increase on the bc's will be happening in the somewhat near future. not sure of when, but i'll be sure to keep you guys informed.

[FlybySTi]

can you give me 2 separate prices on bc non-inverted with extender and with plates

[IMPORTIMAGE]

pm sent sir

[twiSTies]

I know I posted this in another BC thread, but I've added more details and felt it would be better served in this thread for people searching.

A mini-write up on my BC Racing BR Series non-inverted coilover experience after a year:

I've noticed that spring preload and adjuster settings can make a world of difference on these coilovers. Here's my experience with the different settings on re070s and toyo proxes 4 tires all at the recommended 14" front /13.5" rear ride height setting:

RE070:

full soft = ride the wave. a little bit too comfy..spring isn't being controlled enough.

5 clicks from full soft = the right setting for the stiff sidewall for ride comfort around town.

10 clicks = less roll but more pain over potholes and ridges

15 clicks on up = autocross settings, not street friendly over bumps.


Toyo Proxes 4 (gummy bear tires):

full soft = dear god, rides like an 1980's oldsmobile

5 clicks from soft = spring is not controlled by the damper, rebound too high with no compression.

8 clicks from full soft = spring still not controlled as much, very wavy and bouncy but the bounce is slowed over say full soft. the damper is working, but needs more behind it to control the spring rate and tire sidewall.

10 clicks from soft = almost right, compression is up to hold the spring, but rebound a bit too much.

12 clicks from soft = perfect for these tires. a little too much rebound, but appropriate compression. bumps are mostly soaked up by the damper, although you will feel some hits which get settled right away. multiple succession of bumps causes the tires to lose traction in a turn, meaning the damper is being overwhelmed, but hey...still comfortable.

higher than 12 = haven't tried yet on these tires since they're really just that awful for performance driving. i have a feeling that you'd have less roll, less damper compliance, and more tire sliding.


Whats nice to note, see and experience is that the adjuster does work and does a decent job of making appropriate changes considering the price range these are in. I think the different tires have shown that its a very significant advantage to having an adjustable shock on your car. I know the 65% critically damped motion ratio is the ideal, but without factoring in the tire sidewall, you can really under or overshoot your desired ride quality and performance with a non-adjustable shock, IMO. Even though these aren't that good in the grand scheme of shocks, they're still able to support different tire compounds enough that I can find a sweet spot for the track and street at different settings. Total recommended advantage to have on your car, 65% or not.

I've had the opportunity to flog an Acura TL Type-S around and noted that even that oem sport suspension has a lot of the same failings as the BC setup. It'll bobble and lose composure over ripples in the road and has a bit too much rebound over the bigger holes in the road. A lower spring rate helps mitigate some of the crashing, but the valving felt very familar to me.

Just to add this thought: For $1k, these are a tremendous value and I'm still surprised at their capability almost a year later. No leaks or issues with the shocks yet and no signs of coilbind either. They're able to compete at the higher levels of autocross against more expensive brands and don't kill your backside over 98% of the roads around here when they're on the right settings. I'm very pleased.

Issues to date:
Front camber plates squeak.
Rears clunk occasionally, but I'm starting to think thats more from the X-Brace needing to be tightened down at the strut tops.
Overheated the front struts during back to back runs through the Tail of the Dragon on RE070s. Adjusters slipped into their clicks and the shock response became slower and wonky. I don't have a technical way to describe it other than wonky.

Things I'd improve on:
More strut travel. Total travel is 122mm...not the least on the market, but not the 164mm that TiC can boast or the 162mm that RCE has on their T2's.
Better springs. Something thats lighter, more linear, less coils...like a Swift.
Better valving. Minor complaint because I'm used to the JDM way of valving, but I definitely prefer how the Europeans do it instead. Driving an M3 or any 3 series sport suspension vs. the competing Japanese sport suspension is a total eye-opener in valving philosophy.

No rust anywhere on the system after one PA rock salt winter. No coil bind marks on the springs after hitting bumpstops a few times out here. No oil leaks from any of the struts. No WTFWT (what the ef was that?!) noises from them either yet.

[twiSTies]

Final Impression:

I feel that these are a great budget coilover. Yup, I used the words great with budget together in one sentence. Over the past year, I've taken the heat for standing up for these things and quite frankly, I'd do it all over again. They perform well. They improve the ride quality. For $1000, what else do you want?

Clicks make a difference in ride quality and performance. It's apparent that this isn't a subjective feeling of improvement either. Countless people who use this coilover system happen to find similar settings on theirs for comfort and performance. Too many for it to be subjective. I've done back to back damper adjustment tests with unknowing passengers and asked them if they noticed changes. As little as two clicks and the responses have been affirmative.

I have not experienced any problems with them that could not be fixed by checking the spring preload, or lubing. I have had a great time on the backroads around here and had fun wringing out every last ounce of damper oil in them at the Tail of the Dragon with back to back to back to back runs through.

My advice with these is to know what you're getting into and know what your plans are with the car. For a budget autocross setup, these are the ticket. You will compete. These have gone to Nationals and with an amazing driver, have done very, very well. Countless autocrosses have been won or placed with these. They are not a mythical setup put together by a 3 fingered blind 10yr old in a far east basement.

Now, with that all said...there are downsides as one would expect in this price range. For me, it was namely two issues that I felt could be improved. The first one was strut travel. 122mm. Even the Bilstein PSS9 comes with 134mm and the AST/KW setup are over 160mm up front and 190mm plus out back. that's substantial for a street car. The second issue was the valving. It was apparent that over crazily repeating bumps that would make PennDOT blush, the valving couldn't keep up with the extreme movements of the suspension. Over the worst bumps and potholes, you'd get the rebound-induced bounce that would shoot you up in the stock seat like a trampoline at times. Chalk it up to running on basic Tokico-level shocks.

Lastly, I'd like to add something that I've come to realize after more years in this aftermarket game than I should have...namely, it's not really about the product itself all the time. Sometimes, its really more about the level of support and knowledge thats out there for the part. Josh at Import Image has done a fantastic job with keeping customers happy and if anyone is stuck on which budget setup to buy, that kind of service will make the decision for you that much easier.

So my final review on these coilovers considering price and level of ride quality and performance is a very solid 3.5 stars out of 5. That's compared to all the suspensions I've riden on from Stutgart to Tokyo to Detroit. Not a bad compromise.

[Dragicon]

^ thanks for the write-up., i've had it with my stock suspension.., the struts are starting to go again! So i have thought of buying some budget coilovers. How many miles have you put on yours? Rebuild? I read through the thread and didnt find anything about total mileage or whether you needed a rebuild or not.

Also, on the "soft" setting, 5 clicks or so, would you say that performance is comparable to stock?

[twiSTies]

Originally Posted by Dragicon

^ thanks for the write-up., i've had it with my stock suspension.., the struts are starting to go again! So i have thought of buying some budget coilovers. How many miles have you put on yours? Rebuild? I read through the thread and didnt find anything about total mileage or whether you needed a rebuild or not.

Also, on the "soft" setting, 5 clicks or so, would you say that performance is comparable to stock?

I have about 10-12k miles on them. No rebuilds needed yet.

Better than stock performance from these with the proper alignment.

[Dragicon]

Originally Posted by twiSTies

I have about 10-12k miles on them. No rebuilds needed yet.

Better than stock performance from these with the proper alignment.

How much camber are we talking about with the "proper alignment"? And that is better than stock performance on the soft setting or a much higher click setting?

[B4RSTiwsnc]

twisties, I am getting these soon and I would like your suggestion as to how I would set them up for a DD. I want the car to handle drastically better, and be alot lower. I was thinking 13.5 fr and rear. PM me what you think thanks!

[twiSTies]

Originally Posted by Dragicon

How much camber are we talking about with the "proper alignment"? And that is better than stock performance on the soft setting or a much higher click setting?

-1.5 up front
0 degrees toe all around
-1.0 camber out back

Both, since your roll stiffness and wheel rate will be much improved. Plus with these alignment settings, you'll outdo what they come with from the factory by a healthy margin.

[JayDeeEm]

PM me a price on a 2002 WRX wagon for the non-inverted ones.