[4banger]

I didn't pick the damping rates. Koni/GC did. 500/400 is what the math works out to for the optimal spring rates for these particular dampers. Go with lower spring rates, and the car will oscillate more over bumps.

Originally Posted by jagstyle

500/400 on a track ready daily driver?

[Naruto]

I just installed GC coilover sleeves/springs/camber plates for my 04 STI last week. First thing I noticed was that the rear springs I got were shorter than the front, (rears = 6") I'm saving for konis so for now I'm on stock shocks.

First thing I'm concerned about is that the 6" springs make the shocks settle down really far, won't this toast them really quickly?

Second, Mark at GC recommended ride height of 14" in the rear (measured from center wheel straight up to fender) and a MINIMUM of 13.5" But with the 6" spring and moving the sleeves to the top most thread, I can only get barely 13.5"

Did I get the wrong spring? Is this going to be a problem?

Oh and one last thing, I stupidly didn't measure the height before I changed it, does anyone know how much of a drop I made if the ride height is now 14" front 13.5" rear measured from center wheel to fender?

[300hp owen]

so youre rears are 6"
but how long are your fronts?

sounds like a pisser of a dilemma, hope you get it worked out...

[300hp owen]

Originally Posted by stretch

Hmmm, I wonder if anyone has ever looked into making or having made, the strut housings in aluminum... just wondering. it doesnt look like there is much to them but perhaps the welding involved is too time consuming ( = big money) when dealing with aluminum, I dunno.

[ButtDyno]

For weight reasons?

[300hp owen]

yup, and better heat transfer is an added bonus

[Naruto]

The guys at GC (especially mark) are pretty awesome. Initially they sent me the wrong top for the camber plates, when I told them they overnighted the right part to me at my friends house in vegas (all stuff originally shipped to LA).

I talked to mark about the springs and he said he just wanted me to be happy with the setup and offered to send me the 8" springs and I'd send back the 6" ones no charge, he even said he'd cover shipping. I asked him when I 'd get them and he said Monday (it was thursday afternoon) I needed to get them in on the weekend so I could have them ready for my move to Vegas and I told him to just overnight it to me and I'd cover the shipping. Mark said he'd overnight it and split shipping with me! When I got the new springs, they came with a little GC flashlight and a shipping label for me to return the springs without paying return shipping.

With some grunting and swearing I got them in now. so moral of the story, you can't really go wrong with GC!

Originally Posted by 300hp owen

so youre rears are 6"
but how long are your fronts?

sounds like a pisser of a dilemma, hope you get it worked out...

oh and fyi, after putting in the 8" if you're thinking about the coiloversleeves and springs with stock struts, I'd go with 8" front and 7" rear for more adjustability (I'm hoping to get konis + housings to finish up the coilovers soon so I dont mind for now.)

[waktasz]

What rates are you using with the 8" rear springs? With stiff springs back there, 8 is too long. I wish I'd have known this ahead of time.

[Naruto]

I believe it's 350/300 but I'll have to double check. It won't be too stiff since it's the max the stock dampers can take.

I think I'm going to leave them on and get new stiffer springs (7") once I get the konis (someday soon I hope) I'm driving to Vegas from LA this weekend so I'll get a better feel for them. I'll post my thoughts after the next autox and track day within a month.

[ButtDyno]

What are folks using for bumpstops? I didn't re-use my stockers, so that I could keep both my stock stuff and my race stuff fully assembled for easy swapping. Mark sent me bumpstops but they're pretty long - like 3" if I remember right, with 3 different-diameter sections. I am pretty sure I want to trim them for next year, but I was wondering if anyone had already - or if you were using different ones. I'm probably going to remove the skinniest part of the bumpstop (about 1" worth of it)...

john

[stretch]

John, the GC ones you and I were running are 2" long. When I looked at your car, you had sufficient travel prior to the bump stop so you shouldn't need to trim them. I'd leave 'em be. The longer the bump stop, the softer it will be if you do hit it- and since you have enough travel, you won't be hitting the bump stop unless your car has hit a major bump.

[Mykl]

Originally Posted by spazegun2213

I've always said that Zzyzx's are WAY to expensive for what you get. a long time ago i remember them saying they can do custom valving at an additional cost

I'm going to comment on this really old post because it caught my eye and I have ZZYZX's...

Yeah, they're expensive, but there's one critical capability that they offer that most lesser priced setups don't... dual height adjustability.

What this means is.... I don't need bumpstops, I can lower my car way beyond what is typically recommended, and I can actually brake and turn at the same time. nya nya!!!





Ok, that said.... had I not gotten mine used for a reduced price, I wouldn't have bought them. Their typical price puts them out of my range.

[Tim Flat4]

Much earlier in this thread I posted a question about stretch's "staged" upgrade path. I've got a similar question but a bit more specific now.

From my understanding if I were to start with just Konis and springs I'd have to order the Koni housings for the inserts or (to cut down on costs) I could use 04 WRX struts, modified to accept the inserts. Am I correct?

If so, would using STi-specific springs such as RCEs become a problem with the modified WRX struts?

During the winter I'm thinking of ordering a 27mm Whiteline FSB, used RCE springs and Konis for my first suspension mods. In theory it seems like a good idea/combo but I'd like clarification if at all possible.

[mgsm666]

Stretch / Mark / anyone else that can help!

So i've read over this entire thread (about six times), and i'm left with a few questions. First of all, i'm planning on running hacked wrx housings in the rear with inserts, and full GC housings in the front, as well as GC plates up front for the added inch of bump travel. Also, by the time i do this i'll also be running 22-24mm sways (probably front + rear, as 27 seems a little excessive for a DD that hates understeer ).

The goals of the setup are for a comfortable daily driver, with a few auto-x's every season. I started auto-xing last year, and absolutely love it - i'm not competitive, as i run with a club that's basically entirely on slicks, but who knows what the future holds .

My thoughts were this (and i'm asking for help, because i know absolutely nothing about how to calculate these #'s):

swift springs --> 350f / 300r (or similar). Stiffer or softer? What do you think?

Now i also want to be running a ride height of approx 14f / 13.5r, so i figured 8" springs - is that correct?

Finally, i took a brief look at the swift spring catalog that you posted. Looks like the rates go like this:
224
280
336
392
448.

Are there rates inbetween those listed rates?? Where is everyone coming up with their numbers? Does that mean i'm stuck with 336/280 unless i want to bump up to 392/336?? Would the higher rates make for a better combination? I believe the TiC setup (which i will definitely go for instead if it turns out not to be as expensive as projected), runs 336/280 swift's, correct?

Any (and all) help is appreciated, as i know very little about dialing in my suspension based on the numbers - i can tell you how it feels, but that's about it

HELP!!!


Thanks,
Jesse

p.s. Stretch, I live near (and auto-x with) Jay - the guy you sold your GC's to. I'll be home over christmas, and i'll definitely be begging him for a ride. You ended up keeping the eibach springs though, correct?? Aren't they slightly progressive? Basically, trying to get a sense of how i could modify your setup to fit my needs (based on how they feel when i get a ride).

[ButtDyno]

Originally Posted by mgsm666

swift springs --> 350f / 300r (or similar). Stiffer or softer? What do you think?

Now i also want to be running a ride height of approx 14f / 13.5r, so i figured 8" springs - is that correct?

Finally, i took a brief look at the swift spring catalog that you posted. Looks like the rates go like this:
224
280
336
392
448.

Are there rates inbetween those listed rates?? Where is everyone coming up with their numbers? Does that mean i'm stuck with 336/280 unless i want to bump up to 392/336?? Would the higher rates make for a better combination?

For a DD those are probably fine rates, and when combined with your swaybars should be a good compromise autox setup. It'll be very important to buy good tires (always is) and secondarily very important to get a good alignment which you should have no problem doing with the GC plates.

As for the springs, Hyperco is coming out with a new line that should match up very nicely with the Swifts in terms of travel and weight - we'll see about prices though.
Hyperco introduces Optimum Body Diameter (OBD) Race Springs!
Hyperco: The Next Big Thing
I think they're unveiling it this weekend. Those should have more "American" springrates, i.e. increments of 25/50. They sent me some of the specs for the spring rate I was looking at and they matched up very well - within .1" of the comparable Swifts. If you are not obsessed with spring travel there's always the Eibach ERS too.

If you do get the Swifts I think you would be fine on either of your two options.

As for spring length - I have the GC housings in the rear and I'm going with a helper spring in the rear for next year so that the spring is constantly seated - this should help with the creaking/rubbing of the spring on the perch. It's rubbing on threads I'll never use, but I'd like to make the sound go away I don't know if this happens on the inserts though...

john