[Transporter_STi]

I am going to install my Tanabe Springs and would like some instructions on the install. I have installed suspensions before but Subaru is new to me.
Thanks in advance.

[Rev]

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...spring+install

The only problem is that the install does not show specifics on removing the spring from the strut, but should give you an overall idea.

[Transporter_STi]

Originally Posted by STi_Thunder

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=f37c11e20a8e387a4e5cfb933d0e49cd& threadid=1873&highlight=spring+install

The only problem is that the install does not show specifics on removing the spring from the strut, but should give you an overall idea.

Thanks Buddie, that will help so much...
Thank You.

[droideka]

You CANNOT reuse the crush washers. Well, you can, but it is not recommended by anyone be they manufacturer or aftermarket BBK company.

Oh yeah, and for fvck's sake, find out the torque specs for each of the bolts you are removing and replacing. I can't believe that tutorial does not mention proper torquing of the bolts. :roll:

EDIT: OK. Nevermind about the brake lines. I didn't realize they were installed that way on a closed-end bracket and I've edited the post accordingly.

[Rev]

Oh yeah, and for fvck's sake, find out the torque specs for each of the bolts you are removing and replacing. I can't believe that tutorial does not mention proper torquing of the bolts.

The Service Manual does.

[Transporter_STi]

Originally Posted by STi_Thunder

The Service Manual does.

Can some give me that information?

[droideka]

Originally Posted by STi_Thunder

The Service Manual does.

Is the FSM available on CD?

[Rev]

Excerpt from the manual, Front Strut Install:

B: INSTALLATION

1) Install the strut mount at upper side of strut to
body, and then tighten with the nuts.
Tightening torque:
20 N·m (2.0 kgf-m, 14.5 ft-lb)

2) Position the aligning mark on camber adjustment
bolt with aligning mark on lower side of strut.
Install the strut to housing with a new self-locking
nut.

NOTE:
While holding the head of adjusting bolt, tighten the
self-locking nut.
Tightening torque:
175 N·m (17.8 kgf-m, 129 ft-lb)

3) Install the ABS wheel speed sensor harness to
strut.
Tightening torque:
33 N·m (3.4 kgf-m, 24.3 ft-lb)

4) Install the bolts which secure the brake hose to
strut.
Tightening torque:
32 N·m (3.3 kgf-m, 23.6 ft-lb)
5) Install the wheels.

For the rear struts:

B: INSTALLATION
1) Secure the strut mount to vehicle body using a
new self-locking nut.
Tightening torque:
20 N·m (2.0 kgf-m, 14.5 ft-lb)
2) Secure the rear strut to housing using a new
self-locking nut.
Tightening torque:
200 N·m (20.0 kgf-m, 145 ft-lb)
3) Install the brake hose to lower side of strut, then
insert the brake hose clip.
CAUTION:
• Check the hose clip is positioned properly.
• Check the brake hose for twisting, or excessive
tension.
• Do not subject the ABS wheel speed sensor
harness to excessive tension.
4) Lower the vehicle and tighten wheel nut.
Tightening torque:
90 N·m (9.2 kgf-m, 66 ft-lb)
5) Install the rear seat backrest and rear seat cushion.
(Sedan model)
6) Install the strut cap to rear quarter trim. (Wagon
model)

For instance, better get the FSM if you want to do it yourself. 870 PDF documents worth of information for $20.

[Transporter_STi]

Originally Posted by STi_Thunder

Excerpt from the manual, Front Strut Install:

For the rear struts:

Thank you so much!!!

[droideka]

Transporter,

So, I went out tonight and pulled a front off to check out the suspension bits. My strut DOES NOT have a closed-end brake line pass-through like the one in the tutorial. It is open-ended. One bolt comes off and the brake line slides right out. See here for what mine and yours should look like.

That being said, I'm going back to contend that you do not have to remove the brake line to pull the strut out. If there's not enough play in the brake line, pull the caliper off by it's two union bolts instead. Much, much easier than having to bleed brakes for no good reason. Of course if you're inclined to go with SS lines, now is a perfect opportunity.

[gtpark81]

dont forget to post alot of pictures!!! i would really love to see the tanabes cuz im thinking about buying them.....

[STIroide]

In the tanabe box ( GF210 ) they say that u must cut the stock rubber bump by a inch or two... Can I leave them as they are or I cut the bump as specified ?

[Transporter_STi]

Originally Posted by droideka

Transporter,

So, I went out tonight and pulled a front off to check out the suspension bits. My strut DOES NOT have a closed-end brake line pass-through like the one in the tutorial. It is open-ended. One bolt comes off and the brake line slides right out. See here for what mine and yours should look like.

That being said, I'm going back to contend that you do not have to remove the brake line to pull the strut out. If there's not enough play in the brake line, pull the caliper off by it's two union bolts instead. Much, much easier than having to bleed brakes for no good reason. Of course if you're inclined to go with SS lines, now is a perfect opportunity.

Thanks Bro that will help out so much. I noticed that too when they put the sti suspension in, thanks for all the information.

[Transporter_STi]

Originally Posted by STIroide

In the tanabe box ( GF210 ) they say that u must cut the stock rubber bump by a inch or two... Can I leave them as they are or I cut the bump as specified ?

I am not about that, don't the springs come with new bump stops?
Does anyone have any input into this?

[Transporter_STi]

Originally Posted by gtpark81

dont forget to post alot of pictures!!! i would really love to see the tanabes cuz im thinking about buying them.....

Don't worry I will post tons of pictures, I also have new wheels and a new front that no one has, I am the first person to have. (can't say will post pictures! you guys will love it!)