[UgotSmoked]

Yeah I know that this has covered many times before I just wanted to know if I got it right. In the not so distant future I am going to be putting my new 18X8.5" wheels/235/40-18 Tires on my car and dropping it on RCE Springs with Group-N top mounts. I know that I'll need an alignment soon after. I was planning on going -1.8 camber in the front, -1.5 camber in the rear and 0 toe all around. From searching and reading other threads though I have heard that camber cannot be adjusted in the rear. How much can I max out the rear camber on the stock suspension? Is this a good setup for a daily driver? I'm not really going to be tracking the car so my main focus is some improved handling and good tire wear. I do like to push it though. Any suggestions?

[r12rex]

The rear is not adjustable, but you may be able to get SOME camber out of it. Not much though. I went with camber bolts in the rear to add more positive. I have read many guys with RCE springs (I have RCEs with NL camber plates and group-N rears) get -1.8ish in the rear after the drop with really no luck in changing camber with the factory bolts. I say buy a set of bolts (Ingalls, eibach <~I have those) and adjust the rear to have more positive. Right now my specs are:

-1.5 in the front
-1 in the rear
0 Toe all around

For daily driving this is more than enough IMO. I can bring the rear out if I want to.

My current set-up

RCE Springs
NL Camber plates
Rear camber bolts
Rear Group-N
Sport ALK
TIC Fender cowls
H-Brace
Rear Strut bar
Whiteline 27mm Front sway
Whiteline 24mm Rear sway with Kartboy endlinks

This set-up is very neutral around streets and I have slight oversteer with this set-up. I actually lightened up the rear bar to 22mm and have a bit more understeer, but the rear end is still capable of coming out with throttle input. When the rear bar was set to 24mm the rear came out too quickly, now with it set to 22mm the rear does not come out as soon. I like this set-up now, but am thinking about setting it back to 24mm as I enjoyed this set-up a lot more. Cheers and good luck! PM if you have any other questions! Others...chime in!

BTW-Should not have any problems with tire wear with this set-up. If you would like more of an aggressive set-up I say -1.3 rear and -1.8 front

Regards,
Ryan

Originally Posted by UgotSmoked

Yeah I know that this has covered many times before I just wanted to know if I got it right. In the not so distant future I am going to be putting my new 18X8.5" wheels/235/40-18 Tires on my car and dropping it on RCE Springs with Group-N top mounts. I know that I'll need an alignment soon after. I was planning on going -1.8 camber in the front, -1.5 camber in the rear and 0 toe all around. From searching and reading other threads though I have heard that camber cannot be adjusted in the rear. How much can I max out the rear camber on the stock suspension? Is this a good setup for a daily driver? I'm not really going to be tracking the car so my main focus is some improved handling and good tire wear. I do like to push it though. Any suggestions?

[Rookie84]

Do you have the front set to 27mm?? You basically have the same setup as mine so I'm glad to hear it works well. I was thinking -2 in front and -1.5 in rear for agressive setup, though

[r12rex]

Yes, my FSB is set to 27mm. I am very happy with my set-up. Your alignment sure is an aggressive street set-up. You're pretty close to track territory though...That's why I wouldn't go that negative. I think tire wear would be affected slightly with that alignment specs. But, if that set-up works for you... I am happy for you! Just giving my input based on my experiences. You will absolutely love the set-up! Good luck!


Ryan

[RdRacer301]

I'm running -2.7*F and -1.9* in the rear. Zero toes all the way around. Obviously, tire wear is effected, but I can deal with a little shortened tire life for a great DD/track setup.

BTW, I'm on WL G4 coilovers with Cusco camber plates and WL 27-29 FSB&RSB.

[royalsti]

I'm running -2 upfront on the street and the front end bite is great. Seems the front wants to do a reach around on the rear end

Feels great on the street. Track I plan to run near -3 this year.

[RainMaker]

-2 front camber, -.5 rear, 0 toe, caster isnt adjustable.

[allwheelsdriven]

i am re-reading my alignment report and its this:

-1 camber front
-1.6 camber rear
zero toe

i am running 18x8 235/40/18 +51 and group n tops/pink springs and a perrin 22m rear bar and whiteline fsb set to 24mm.

I get more rear body roll than i want but i assume the whiteline alk i just ordered will help that. Maybe also a bigger rear bar. I also need to set the front bar to 29mm and at least get some bolts to get the front camber to -2. Any thoughts on dialing the rear camber more positive? I assumed it was to make sure my 235's wouldnt rub

[RainMaker]

Originally Posted by royalsti

Track I plan to run near -3 this year.

Dpending on the tire, that could be too much for straight line braking. Somewhere between -2.5 and -3.0 RE070s start to get nervous under full braking. Its slightly tolerable at an autoX, but I wouldnt do it on a track. Tires with a softer sidewall may also be OK at -3. Just be ready to dial the front camber back if you need to.

Chris

[RainMaker]

Originally Posted by RdRacer301

Obviously, tire wear is effected, but I can deal with a little shortened tire life for a great DD/track setup.

Depending on how much you track the car and how aggresive you drive on the street and how much time you spend on a long highway, -2 or -2.5 in the front wont wear your tires out much faster. Im wearing the outsides of my RE070s out faster

One track day can make up for alot of highway driving at -2.5 camber.

[royalsti]

Originally Posted by RainMaker

Dpending on the tire, that could be too much for straight line braking. Somewhere between -2.5 and -3.0 RE070s start to get nervous under full braking. Its slightly tolerable at an autoX, but I wouldnt do it on a track. Tires with a softer sidewall may also be OK at -3. Just be ready to dial the front camber back if you need to.

Chris

RainMaker, excellent point. I will be using the RE-O1r's for the track. So they are comprable regarding the sidewall stiffness. Not as good as the 070's, but still a valid point.

[UgotSmoked]

Anyone else that has input on my original thread?

[EROCK11]

I think the numbers you have in your original post will be fine for what you do. Zero toe is key and you could even dial back the front camber to -1.5 if you are worried about excessive tire wear. Can't do much in the rear w/out camber bolts/plates.
CN: Your alignment numbers look good for spirited street driving. Have fun.

[UgotSmoked]

Originally Posted by EROCK11

I think the numbers you have in your original post will be fine for what you do. Zero toe is key and you could even dial back the front camber to -1.5 if you are worried about excessive tire wear. Can't do much in the rear w/out camber bolts/plates.
CN: Your alignment numbers look good for spirited street driving. Have fun.

^Thank you

[spazegun2213]

Ugot,

you can run -2 in the front with no real problems at all, i dont have any tire wear at all. It really is the toe on our cars. My setup is -2F and -1R I dont have sways but i have the RCE springs. so you might want more rear camber, but i like how tossable my car is at the moment.