[LOLSTi]

Originally Posted by flatthump

Or you could do this..HowTo: 4 wheel alignment (string method for toe and thrust)

werd.

[BlueGold]

Originally Posted by LOLSTi

Would work great. I would go closer to -*2 in the front with -1* in the rear.

Any chance you want to trade for some nifty lowering plates? Can't hurt to ask.

Which left do you mean? Facing the car? Swapping the plates will net you more caster with a little lowerceiling on the available camber, but shouldn't matter if you want less than 3* anyhow.

It was my understanding that left and right were from the prespective of the drivers seat?? So the "left" camber plate would go on the drivers side for example??

DAMN!! Almost negative 3!! I would love to take ride in that. See you take me for a ride up White's Hill and I provide beer...when we return of course. Not a bad deal if you ask me.

Originally Posted by flatthump

Or you could do this..HowTo: 4 wheel alignment (string method for toe and thrust)

That's what I'm doing while I install the camber plates.

[LOLSTi]

Originally Posted by BlueGold

It was my understanding that left and right were from the prespective of the drivers seat?? So the "left" camber plate would go on the drivers side for example??

DAMN!! Almost negative 3!! I would love to take ride in that. See you take me for a ride up White's Hill and I provide beer...when we return of course. Not a bad deal if you ask me.

I have my "R" plate as the driver's side, so I believe that the "intended" setup is how you picture it.

White's Hill is fun. We can do that anytime. (I'm underage though, so officially I'll take a Coke. )

[BlueGold]

Originally Posted by LOLSTi

I have my "R" plate as the driver's side, so I believe that the "intended" setup is how you picture it.

White's Hill is fun. We can do that anytime. (I'm underage though, so officially I'll take a Coke. )

RCE should probably consider sending some sort of instructions with their camber plates...to avoid confusion.

White's Hill is one of my favorite roads to drive. A good place to test power and suspension IMO.

All I have is Pepsi.

It's strange I don't see you in Harrison...since I live there....but I will keep my eye open.

[LOLSTi]

Originally Posted by BlueGold

RCE should probably consider sending some sort of instructions with their camber plates...to avoid confusion.

White's Hill is one of my favorite roads to drive. A good place to test power and suspension IMO.

All I have is Pepsi.

I agree. Though I love the "S" curve on Pinhook.

I agree about the plates, and Pepsi works.

I remember seeing you that one time getting on 74... but that's it. My girlfriend sees you often though, i believe. Have you seen the guy with the new black/gold 2007? I've seen him twice on Cambell rd.

[flatthump]

You always orient parts from the position of the driver. I dont know whether or not manufacturer's all use this rule though.

[BlueGold]

Originally Posted by LOLSTi

I agree. Though I love the "S" curve on Pinhook.

I agree about the plates, and Pepsi works.

I remember seeing you that one time getting on 74... but that's it. My girlfriend sees you often though, i believe. Have you seen the guy with the new black/gold 2007? I've seen him twice on Cambell rd.

I've seen that car once I think. Badass.

Originally Posted by flatthump

You always orient parts from the position of the driver. I dont know whether or not manufacturer's all use this rule though.

That was my understanding. The other question I had was what torque to use on the nuts on the camber plate?? Both the nuts attaching it to the body and the nuts holding the strut. RCE???

[flatthump]

They told me to do 15ft/lbs.

[AndrewSS]

As far as street and track settings go, this previous autox season I set the car to about -3.0 F and zero toe everywhere... at the end of the season I noticed some inside front wear, looks like negative camber wear... it sorta surprised me, but there was some wear.

Switching a track and street setting could become annoying, I still havnt decided what I am going to do this upcoming season. However if you can play with the car while its on an alignment rack you can set the "baseline" at the street setting (ex -1.5 and zero toe) then shove the plates in for negative camber, then go to the tierods and adjust to zero toe again while counting how many turns you have to do before reaching zero... OR you can make a "toebar" which is like an object that you measure exactly for where you have to set the tierod nut...

Like I said I am not quite sure what I want to do yet, the "toebar" idea sounds pretty good though...

[austinpike]

Originally Posted by wizzman

Wow, I was under the impression that teh effect on toe would not be that significant.

yeah, I wanted to do the same thing with my PDE plates (autox setting and street setting) but the toe changed w/camber more than I expected. Part of the issue was the machine measuring toe in degrees, and you always see the specs around here in terms of inches (1/8",etc,) and that conversion was more than my brain could handle at that moment. So I gave up and just had them max out the camber w/ zero toe. Which seemed to work well w/ pyrometer checks on the autox course, but run around at -3 for a couple months on the steet and you'll start to get some inside wear.

I'm sure with enough time on the rack you could find a couple good settings. I can't find my alignment notes, so I'm guessing here, but you could possibly end up with something like -2.5 / 1/8" out for the track, and -2.0 / 0 toe for the street. But at that point, is it really worth adjusting each time - you might as well split the difference and leave it.

[BlueGold]

Originally Posted by flatthump

They told me to do 15ft/lbs.

That seems correct for the nuts holding the plate to the body of the car but what about the nuts holding the strut?? I would guess at least 35 ft/lbs.

[flatthump]

Same grade and size fastener....I did it to 15 ft/lbs

[Greg]

Originally Posted by CGMDan

When I had my car aligned with RCE plates last month, we played with settings to see what would happen. With about -1.5 deg. of camber dialed and 0 toe, we added another 1 deg neg camber for -2.5 neg. total, it knocked the toe out to almost 1 degree. And that was just on one side.

Interesting. A friend of mine had this done at his aligment shop with different results. His street setup is -1.5 zero toe, and the track setup is -2.5 with 1/4 of toe (total for both sides). He's running the lowering RCE camber plate on pinks.

[scottjua]

on the left vs. right plate/orientation: shouldn't we think of it as we drive "left hand drive" cars, so to err on the driver's side for USDM cars meaning "left" in this instance???

[Got2Boostit2]

Originally Posted by flatthump

You always orient parts from the position of the driver. I dont know whether or not manufacturer's all use this rule though.

Pretty much industry standard in the US. Drivers side is left, passengers side is right. FRT of car is noted in most schematics....funny how this is like the way it is with me....but gotta realize not techs/neophytes would need this clarified.....