[BBBsti LTD]

On a 2007 STi, what are the alignment spec in camber.
Also I know that the recommendation for the camber is something around -1.5 degree is this in all four tires? With this alignment should i expect any wear in my tires from the inside like happened to my 2001 Prelude with H&R Springs? The tires were gone in less than 10,000 of street use.
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[rmo55c]

according to the specs from dobbs for the 05 sti (which i doubt it changed):

Front camber: -1.3 to 0.3
Front caster: 4.1 to 5.6
Front Toe: -.13 to 0.13
Front SAI: 14.1 to 15.6
Front Included Angle: 12.8 to 15.8

Rear camber: -.9 to -.2.4
Rear toe: -.13 to .13

obvious these are just acceptable ranges, and not the ideal.

The ideal:
stock caster (mine was 4.3 on both sides), 0 toe (every alignment should have this as toe will destroy tires and toe is not hard to zero), and preferred camber.

The stock STi can get between -1.0 and -1.5 usually on the front but this varies car to car. The rear is not really adjustable without aftermarket parts that can allow for camber adjustment as far as I know.

Max out the camber on your STi with stock suspension. It will probably be at MAX -1.5. Expect closer to -1.0 at most. This will not cause any significant wear on your tires. I run -1.5 all the way around and almost wish I had done more. There is no signs of significant inner tire wear.

Hope this helps.

added - the front is not really that adjustable on a stock either, but playing with can usually net what I said above.

[Greg]

Originally Posted by rmo55c

The stock STi can get between -1.0 and -1.5 usually on the front but this varies car to car. The rear is not really adjustable without aftermarket parts that can allow for camber adjustment as far as I know.

Don't get his hopes up. After 06, max camber was under -0.8. Mine was -0.4. While the rears are not adjustable a good alignment guy will use the play in the bolts to what the customer asks for. Don't expect that treament from the average garage.

[BBBsti LTD]

So what do I need..... camberplates??? Pardon my ignorance!

[LOLSTi]

Originally Posted by BBBsti LTD

So what do I need..... camberplates??? Pardon my ignorance!

Or eccentric bolts.

Camber plates are the best way to go. For a street car, -2 in the front and -1.2 or so in the rear should be great.

[Greg]

Originally Posted by BBBsti LTD

So what do I need

What you need is a goal and a plan. Start there, unless you haven't had a proper alignent, then get that done first.

Camber plates can fit into the plan but they don't have to. You don't need -1.5 to have an awesome handlng street STI. If you want to track it, that's another story. Also bolts and plates are not the only way to get more camber. If you replace the struts with coilovers or Ohlins, the mounting points can change slightly giving you just that little extra. Bolts are cheap but need to be tightened and can slip. How many aligments and shreaded tires does it take to make up the cost difference between bolts and plates? Since the question can even be asked, bolts never made it into my plan.

Confused yet? Here's where you should start, define your goals, along with what you hate about the way the car currently handles or have areas you'd like to improve. Then start working on the overall plan. Alignment is first, then work from there. Everyone has a slightly different take on what's needed to reach thier handling nervana. Different goals and different ways of achieving it.

If you just want a recipe, we can give it. But it might not be the dish you had in mind. Camber bolts are only the appetizer, don't miss the main course.

[BBBsti LTD]

Thanks, Greg

I want a lower look, thats if for appearance.

Now I would like to have less body roll and to feel the car little more tight. I know... Sway's are in my plan. I am confused about what products should I get. Springs are a must but what about top hats and camber plates? I dont want to spend close to $1000 on struts, springs and plates, I think I can get a decent coilover setup for a little bit more and be able to adjust the height as well. But would be the ride to harsh/stiff?????

[Greg]

B) I want a lower look, thats if for appearance.
G) I understand the appearance issue, but as it turns out, you have to consider and address your over-all suspension plan including your performance and ride quality requirements before simply dropping the car a bit in the front. Lowering can be done with a lowering camber plate or a spring. Once you start talking about either, it needs to fit it the bigger picture. Will the spring suit your performance and comfort requirements? Will a lowering plate be too low if you change to a different spring later? Also remember that simply lowering the front changes the static location of the lower control arms and can result in more positive camber under compression. To counteract this more static camber is required, or the 6gun kit.


B) Now I would like to have less body roll and to feel the car little more tight. I know... Sway's are in my plan. I am confused about what products should I get.
G) Stiffer springs (most lowering springs are stiffer) will help reduce body roll. Most here also add anti roll bars, but if you are unsure if you need both, it may be better to start with springs since it sounds like you are headed that way anyway. Anti-roll bars can be added later. If you wanted to keep the stock springs you could add only bars but wouldn't get any lowering benefit unless you used a lowering camber plate. As for sways, as long as its stiff enough for you and comes from one of the top mfgs, there's not a lot to picking one. Whiteline make great bars and it sounds like RCE will have some out soon as well. Sizing is import and many go with a huge bar up front, then a smaller bar in back. I'm glad to see equal sized bars is starting to make a come back. If you are definitly getting lowering stiffer springs, you might hold off on the bars until you see how much the springs help get you where you want to be. Also remember that a stiffer bar doesn't equal more traction. In fact its the oposite. In wet weather or rough roads you'll have more grip with a softer bar. But a stiffer bar will "feel" better to the driver.

B) Springs are a must but what about top hats and camber plates?
G) Many say hardend strut tops are must to address the bobblehead and provided needed firmness. I'm not agreeing, just repeating. If you go with hardened tops you won't be able to adjust camber and for the cost you are halfway to camber plates. I went the plate route because I wanted the adjustability. However if you are never going to the track or trying autocross, it's may be a touch overkill. As I said, I could only get -0.4 in the front and that was not going to be enough, for me. Knowing how much negitive camber you can get with the stock parts as well as your track plans would help make this decision a bit easier.


B) I dont want to spend close to $1000 on struts, springs and plates,
G) Struts are quite a bit more than that. Springs and plates could be had for less than that.

B) I think I can get a decent coilover setup for a little bit more and be able to adjust the height as well.
G) A "decent" coilover, one that you would be dying to pull off in 6 months, is quite a bit more than that.

B) But would be the ride to harsh/stiff?????
G) Depends on how you define harsh/stiff. Also having just gone from stock to the Ohlins and RCE springs, there is a huge difference between harsh and stiff. The stock suspension was both harsh and stiff. The Ohlins with RCE is springs is quite a bit stiffer but not near as harsh. Yes, that's what you are getting for all the extra dough.

If the stock suspension is too harsh for you, then you will have to try a new strut or a good quality coilover. If you are OK with the ride as is and just want some lowering, then RCE springs are a great way to go. That will probably help the ride quality a bit not anything like replacing the struts as well.

So far I've done springs struts sways and the ALK (search for the forum for comments on this odd item). If I was strapped for cash and could only choose a few of these items, I'd start with the ALK and add the RCE springs. You could get the RCE non-lowering camber plates and come close to your budget. Later add sways if you are still getting too much body roll, and add Ohlins (or whatever is available) to help improve the ride quality.

I included the ALK because it makes a huge difference in the way the car feels while applying power mid corner. It also helps a address some of the understeer issues. So far, next to the Ohlin's its my favorite suspension mod.