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Go Back   IWSTI.com: Subaru WRX STI Forums > GD Series STi Discussion (2003/4-2007) > GD-Technical > GD-Suspension, Handling, & Stiffening


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Old 11-01-2006, 01:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatthump
24mm front and 22mm then....Unless you are an experenced driver who likes oversteer....then Id get the 24mm rear

I agree with this, but might I suggest getting the adjustable versions so you can play around with them to get it where you like it. Going that route is not much more, and if you start playing with settings you'll appreciate it. here's the part numbers for the adjustable setups:

rear - bsr37z (22mm thick bar. settings for 20, 22, and 24)
front - bsf33xz (04 STi), bsf36xz (05+ STi) settings for 24 and 26mm.

You don't say what year your car is so I did both front part numbers. The rear bar is the same no matter what year.

One other thing that I feel I must suggest - get rear endlinks. Some folks will disagree with me on this, but I speak from experience. I have see the stock endlinks bend on a stock suspension. I have seen the stock endlinks break on a very midly upgraded suspension. Just get new ones. Don't be one of those guys who orders bars, and then two weeks later sheepishly calls their vendor and asks for some rear endlinks because your stock ones broke.


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Old 11-01-2006, 01:52 PM   #17
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Yes, im definately getting endlinks, thats a for sure. This is for an 06 STI BTW. Now ive decided i want to go the adjustable route, so what do u guys think of this setup instead, 24mm adjustable all around ? This way, im thinking i can experiment with more or less oversteer. I was thinking of going with the perrin endlinks for both the front and rears...
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Old 11-01-2006, 02:05 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostin04
Yes, im definately getting endlinks, thats a for sure. This is for an 06 STI BTW. Now ive decided i want to go the adjustable route, so what do u guys think of this setup instead, 24mm adjustable all around ? This way, im thinking i can experiment with more or less oversteer. I was thinking of going with the perrin endlinks for both the front and rears...
that would give you some nice adjustment, and with the uprated springs you should be fine on the wheel lift problem. If you do find that the middle (24mm) setting on the rear causes too much step out in the rear you can roll it to the softest, and have an effective rate of 22mm.

I have my opinions on the perring links or any link with spherical bearings, but I'll let others speak about those.
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Old 11-01-2006, 02:20 PM   #19
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Please do tell...i wanna know the advantages and disadvantages of the spherical bearings..i wanna make the right choice, so lets hear some thoughts. This is really the first time ive heard something bad about them...

Which ones would u suggest ? Kartboys perhaps ?
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Old 11-01-2006, 02:26 PM   #20
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Spherical end links normally develop noises. I guess they 'technically' allow more enegry transfer transmitted than urethane types which will make your sway work faster(arguable)

I rock the whitelines cause they are indesructable.
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Old 11-01-2006, 02:49 PM   #21
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Default I have the setup you're considering...

Quote:
Originally Posted by flatthump
24mm front and 22mm then....Unless you are an experenced driver who likes oversteer....then Id get the 24mm rear
I think Flatthump knows what he's talking about. I know NOTHING about mechanics, but I do know how to drive and I just put those Whitelines on my new '07 with Pinks after reading all the threads here. It's a great autocross-type setup, but you should definitely be comfortable handling oversteer, throttle steering and sliding the car. It radically changes the car's handling from stock. Your back end will come around very nicely in tight cornering at slow to medium speeds. If you're not a reasonably skilled driver, it does increase the chance of spinning the car if you really overcook a corner. I don't think this is an optimal setup for time trialing at higher speeds... I haven't had any problems with wheel lift (yet) but I've only got about 1,000 miles on this setup.

As far as comfort, the ride feels great; very comfortable and dialed in.

Regarding "adjustability," as I said, I'm not a mechanic, but the guy who installed it for me said you need to set it up so that the endlinks are straight up, so it's not really "adjustable." I don't know if that makes sense or not. I also went with recomendations to also put on heavy duty mounts and endlinks front and back. Better safe than sorry.
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Old 11-01-2006, 03:17 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCane
I think Flatthump knows what he's talking about. I
Their are plenty of other people on IWSTI that are farther along in their mechanical life than me. Their are some pretty smart fella's lurking around in here.
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Old 11-01-2006, 04:22 PM   #23
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I'm a bit tired so please forgive me if I missed it, but what is your objective? Stated another way what is it about your current setup that you'd like to improve?
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:22 PM   #24
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Well as for right now im completely stock, but i just got my BC Coilovers and all these mods came rushing to my head..lol Ive got mod-itis I just wanna do all the suspension work i can (sways, ALK, bushings) while im doing my coilovers at the same time, to save the headache of crawling under there about 5 times.
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Old 11-02-2006, 05:19 AM   #25
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with the BC coilovers, or any other pure street level units with std. tires (even R compounds), Cusco 22mm front, Cusco 22-24mm rear (set at 24mm), Kartboy endlinks, GT spec front ALK, and you'll be right as rain
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Old 11-02-2006, 09:40 AM   #26
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Sorry to get off topic, but i was wondering... is there a difference between the GT Spec ALK and the Whiteline Sport version ?
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Old 11-02-2006, 09:45 AM   #27
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we don't offer the Whiteline stuff so I cannot answer that.

We started using the GT Spec kit a few years ago when they first released and have been absolutely thrilled with it - everything fits as it should, it's not overly harsh, and it's silent Plus, for a relatively small change, it makes a world of difference in how the car feels.
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Old 11-02-2006, 12:38 PM   #28
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I originally was going to do a spring upgrade (RCE's) but since decided that I want to do coilovers. I chose the BC Racing coilovers as well, same as boostin04.
Anyway, I'd already purchased an adjustable Whitleline 27/29mm FSB and 24mm RSB before I decided that going with the c/o's was what I wanted to do.
With a 8k/6k spring rate, what kind of effect will those sizes of sway bars have on driveability? Wheel lift? Potential for loosing my back end in hard corners?
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Old 11-03-2006, 08:21 PM   #29
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Hey WhyteSTI, did u get ur coilovers yet ? I was wondering wheter urs came with any instructions for adjusting the ride height.
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Old 11-03-2006, 09:26 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhyteSTI
I originally was going to do a spring upgrade (RCE's) but since decided that I want to do coilovers. I chose the BC Racing coilovers as well, same as boostin04.
Anyway, I'd already purchased an adjustable Whitleline 27/29mm FSB and 24mm RSB before I decided that going with the c/o's was what I wanted to do.
With a 8k/6k spring rate, what kind of effect will those sizes of sway bars have on driveability? Wheel lift? Potential for loosing my back end in hard corners?

With those spring rates you should be fine, and not get rear wheel lift.

That does not mean put them on the stiffest setting and go. Keep in mind that even a small dia. change in a bar is a BIG change in stiffness. Coupled with the fact that you now have stiffer springs which will help with roll stiffness and you have completely changed the handling dynamics of the car.

Here's what I suggest you do.

1) install parts and set sways to full soft both front and rear.
2) adjust coilovers for weight balance, height, and get an alignment
3) play with the settings of the coilovers to get them to where you like the ride, and handling. at this point you will still have more body roll than you like.
4) once you have figured out the settings of the coilovers, and want more control over bodyroll use the swaybars to fine tune the handling.

This is NOT an overnight thing. Coilovers are not the cure for all handling woes where you throw them on, and the car will instantly let you be a professional race driver. It will take time to dial in what settings for both the coilovers and sways suit you best.

Professional race teams spend countless hours setting up, and adjusting suspensions, and these are the guys who know their job inside and out. Despite this knowledge they also know that there will be adjustments to be made. Your situation is no different. It will require work to figure out what works best for you. Sure, suggestions on the parts, and basic settings can be made, but in the end you have to adjust the car to your style.


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