[07ugmltd]

I'd like to buy some front camber bolts for my car. I'm probably going to go with Whiteline KCA414s. Are these the best bolts to go with if I decide to get whiteline bolts? I know they make larger bolts, are these the largest ones that fit the STI? Also, whats the best location to instal these bolts? I've read that it's the top bolt location and I've also read that it's the bottom location. Are the strut bolt holes both the same size? If I can instal the bolts in either place which one will get me more neg camber? Thanks

[LuVJuGGs]

Ok u dont have to pay an arm and a leg for whitline stuff, get SPC brand 14mm bolts they are on ebay for much less. Innovative tuning I know in Buffalo NY carry them for sure.

If you want extra camber in the front u need 2 bolts and they will go in the bottom location

If you want camber adjustment in the rear then they go in the top hole in the rear. Stock bolts have no camber and READ the instructions very carefully when installing them and have them handy their orientation matters when going in top/bottom holes if you are going to have them installed you need to make sure the shop understandss and the guy is willing to read instructions

[williaty]

Installing aftermarket camber bolt in top hole of front knuckle=DIE

Aftermarket camber bolts can be installed in the lower hole only in the front knuckle. Any 14mm camber bolt will do. You can find ones MUCH cheaper than whiteline. Follow the instructions below exactly or you WILL have problems.

Don't rely on the printed instructions that come with camber bolts. Literally every single set of printed instructions I've ever seen had either something outright wrong with them or skipped steps.

Note: for the purposes of these instructions, the "handle" is the square bit of metal sticking up off the outside edge of the washer at a 45* angle, the "tab" is the tiny bit of metal sticking inwards at a 90* angle from the inside edge of the washer, and the "lobe" is the bulge on the shaft of the camber bolt.

Note: The arrow on the head of the bolt USUALLY points at the lobe. Sometimes, they miss. Verify they're lined up before you start.

To add a 2nd (aftermarket) camber bolt to the lower hole in the front knuckle with the intent of getting more negative camber:

1) Loosen the upper camber bolt and the lower normal bolt.
2) Remove the lower normal bolt
3) Insert the aftermarket camber bolt into the lower hole with the washer on the bolt such that the tab faces the strut and the handle faces away from the strut.
4) Press the aftermarket camber bolt into the knuckle until the washer can just barely move between the head of the bolt and the strut.
5) Thread the nut onto the aftermarket camber bolt until it's against the strut, but DO NOT TIGHTEN the nut so much that you pinch the washer between the head of the bolt and the strut.
6) Rotate the washer of the aftermarket camber bolt so that the handle on the washer points straight at the knuckle (straight away from the engine).
7) Rotate the bolt so that the lobe of the bolt faces directly away from the handle on the washer.
8 ) Using a flathead screwdriver, gently move the washer so that the tab on the washer slips into the hole in the strut between the strut and the shaft of the bolt. This may take some cajoling, but you HAVE to get this right.

NOTE: If at any point the tab on the washer becomes damaged (torn off, smashed flat, etc), throw the bolt out and get a new one. If the tab on the washer isn't properly fitted into the hole, the bolt WILL fail on the street.

9) Verify that the handle on the washer is still pointed straight at the knuckle (away from the engine) and that the tab is still properly seated into the hole.
10) Tighten the nut just enough that you can still turn the bolt, but the washer can't move enough for the tab to pop out of the hole.
11) Rotate the upper OEM camber bolt so the tick marks on the head face directly towards the engine. There's a stray tick 90* off from the rest, this should line up with the tick mark on the D-Spec.
12) Rotate the aftermarket bolt so that the lobe faces straight at the handle.
13) Have a friend slam the top of the brake rotor towards the engine as hard as they can
14) While the friend pins the brake rotor towards the engine, tighten the nut on the OEM camber bolt as tight as you can get it with a standard ratcheting socket handle while using a box wrench to make sure the bolt itself doesn't spin AT ALL.
15) Move the friend out of the way and tighten the OEM bolt to spec while making sure the bolt itself doesn't spin AT ALL.
16) Tighten the aftermarket bolt to spec while making sure the bolt and the washer don't spin AT ALL.

NOTE: If you end up with more than the desired camber, reduce camber by adjusting the OEM bolt only! You ALWAYS want the aftermarket bolt set to its maximum position to reduce the chance of slipping. To adjust the OEM bolt for slightly less camber, loosen both the OEM bolt and the aftermarket bolt slightly. Then, replace step #11 with "Rotate the OEM camber bolt to the necessary adjustment position" and follow the rest of the steps as given.