[BBKG79]

I need some help, I recently was given a used set of Megan Racing coilovers. All four springs have coil bind. Now I'm not sure if I need longer springs or just better springs. I'm currently running 10kg Front and 6kg Rear. I'm looking for the best performance and daily driver spring. I know, I know some of you will say "They're Megans", but hey the were free so I'm working with what I got until I can get what I want.

I'm allowed +2/-2kg for sprint rates. I would also if possible, like to run some helper springs to help with comfort. I hope longer springs aren't the only way to avoid coil bind. If I read it correctly that then alters ride height, and I wont be able to go past a certain lowering height. I want to be able to go lower if I want, so if taller springs wont allow me to do that. Is there an alternative to taller springs?

No I don't want a slammed car, I just like having the adjustability.

[stretch]

You can probably buy the same length springs as the ones you have now. The really cheap springs don't compress nearly as much than the good ones, so you'll be adding a bunch of travel even if you buy the same length. Go with Swift springs; they're the best in this regard.

That said, you can almost certainly add an inch to the length of the springs you already have. That'd be the best thing to do. Measure what you have and add an inch. Worst case scenario: you won't be able to slam the car as low.

I know you don't want to hear this, but I don't think new springs are going to make your Megan coilovers better than the stock STI equipment. I wouldn't run them even if they were free, as they were in your case. Spend your spring money on Prodrive springs w/ bump stops or lowering camber plates with Prodrive bump stops. (Or, if you don't have them already, buy sways instead!)

[BBKG79]

Originally Posted by stretch

You can probably buy the same length springs as the ones you have now. The really cheap springs don't compress nearly as much than the good ones, so you'll be adding a bunch of travel even if you buy the same length. Go with Swift springs; they're the best in this regard.

That sounds cool!

I know you don't want to hear this, but I don't think new springs are going to make your Megan coilovers better than the stock STI equipment. I wouldn't run them even if they were free, as they were in your case. Spend your spring money on Prodrive springs w/ bump stops or lowering camber plates with Prodrive bump stops. (Or, if you don't have them already, buy sways instead!)

Holy Moly, not even better than he stock equipment. "Wouldn't run them if they were free". Are they really that bad? Damnnnnnnnnnnn, that's harsh. But I see your point, I could use the $300-400 on some springs and call it a day until I get what I want

[BBKG79]

Stretch, just for future referece the coil spring ID's are 62. Swift only offers 60, 65, 75 how would that work?

I assuming the ID is the width of the coil

[stretch]

That's roughly 2.5 inches. You can use 2.5" or 65mm springs. (They're the same parts, some times.) 3mm is almost nothing. Heck, 60mm springs probably fit too unless the Megans are built to really tight tolerances.

[BBKG79]

Originally Posted by stretch

That's roughly 2.5 inches. You can use 2.5" or 65mm springs. (They're the same parts, some times.) 3mm is almost nothing. Heck, 60mm springs probably fit too unless the Megans are built to really tight tolerances.

Thank you, much appreciated.

[twiSTies]

Originally Posted by stretch

I know you don't want to hear this, but I don't think new springs are going to make your Megan coilovers better than the stock STI equipment.

you're nuts.

[BBKG79]

I've seen several setups is there a difference, do helper springs go on the top or bottom of the coil????

[ButtDyno]

You do not want helper springs - you want tender springs.

Helpers have virtually no rate, compress flat at a normal ride height and are only there to keep the spring fully engaged at all times. Tender springs have a meaningful rate (which can make suspension tuning fun)

Tender Springs vs. Helper Springs

john

[BBKG79]

Originally Posted by ButtDyno

You do not want helper springs - you want tender springs.

Helpers have virtually no rate, compress flat at a normal ride height and are only there to keep the spring fully engaged at all times. Tender springs have a meaningful rate (which can make suspension tuning fun)

Tender Springs vs. Helper Springs

john

Thank you, that was an informative read, didn't know there was difference or the fact that tender springs existed. I thought helper springs were tender springs, to provide a more progressive/comfortable ride. Ok so now tender springs are welded on which reduces the swaparoonie. Helpers are divided by an aluminum spacer which just keeps the spring snug against the upper spring perch. So the helper can go either on the bottom or top it reallly doesn't matter?

[ButtDyno]

Originally Posted by BBKG79

Thank you, that was an informative read, didn't know there was difference or the fact that tender springs existed. I thought helper springs were tender springs, to provide a more progressive/comfortable ride. Ok so now tender springs are welded on which reduces the swaparoonie. Helpers are divided by an aluminum spacer which just keeps the spring snug against the upper spring perch. So the helper can go either on the bottom or top it reallly doesn't matter?

The welding was an example - you don't *have* to do that. JIC's tender springs (which they label as "helper springs") use an aluminum collar too.

As for bottom/top I don't have a clue

john

[BBKG79]

Originally Posted by ButtDyno

The welding was an example - you don't *have* to do that. JIC's tender springs (which they label as "helper springs") use an aluminum collar too.

As for bottom/top I don't have a clue

john

That's cool, I still learned something, another wrinkle on the brain as they say.

Hopefully someone else or a vendor will chime in on placement?

[RaceComp Engineering]

Megans are dual height adjustable IIRC, so you don't really want/need a helper.

Our RCE T2's have the helper on top in front and on bottom in the rear. I don't think it matters much though. Ohlins have them on bottom front and rear.

Tenders might help, but I might just try getting Swift 8k/6k springs to keep things simple. 1 inch longer then what you have now as stretch suggested.

OR, sell the megans and get swaybars + lowering camber plates, decent springs, etc.


- Andrew

[zzyzx]

Originally Posted by BBKG79

Thank you, that was an informative read, didn't know there was difference or the fact that tender springs existed. I thought helper springs were tender springs, to provide a more progressive/comfortable ride. Ok so now tender springs are welded on which reduces the swaparoonie. Helpers are divided by an aluminum spacer which just keeps the spring snug against the upper spring perch. So the helper can go either on the bottom or top it reallly doesn't matter?

Just to be clear, the difference between a tender and helper spring is the rate, not how they're attached together. I'd say the far majority are separated - seated together - by a aluminum ring, not welded.

Here's a pic - one on the left (front) is a tender, noted by the thicker wire, and one on the right (rear) is a helper. Both are separated by the same aluminum ring picture

This obviously makes things easier when you're sorting out a setup and need to try different rate tender springs. That said, Eibach has by far the largest selection of different rate tender springs in their ERS series.

As to the order - which one is on top - there's no hard and fast rule. On my setups, I try to orient them such that at the given ride height, the transition between them (where the aluminum ring is...), does not regularly cross the point where the strut body ends. I've seen in some cases that it'll hit the strut if this is the case and make a loud "clunk", possibly damaging the ring and/or strut body.

[BBKG79]

Originally Posted by zzyzx

Just to be clear, the difference between a tender and helper spring is the rate, not how they're attached together. I'd say the far majority are separated - seated together - by a aluminum ring, not welded.

Here's a pic - one on the left (front) is a tender, noted by the thicker wire, and one on the right (rear) is a helper. Both are separated by the same aluminum ring picture

This obviously makes things easier when you're sorting out a setup and need to try different rate tender springs. That said, Eibach has by far the largest selection of different rate tender springs in their ERS series.

As to the order - which one is on top - there's no hard and fast rule. On my setups, I try to orient them such that at the given ride height, the transition between them (where the aluminum ring is...), does not regularly cross the point where the strut body ends. I've seen in some cases that it'll hit the strut if this is the case and make a loud "clunk", possibly damaging the ring and/or strut body.

Danka very much, all the setups I've seen were seperated by the ring, it wasn't until I read BD's link that I heard of the weld. I'll keep your tip for placement in mind