[dustybottoms]

I bought my helix dna's with the intentions of doing a getting into auto-X, but I simply have not had the time, what with work and marriage.

That being said, short of reverting to stock, what are some options to improve the comfort on the highway over OEM (particularly the bobblehead), as well as improve the performance, and lastly, give a bit of a drop for aesthetics?

I would love to hear that there is a spring that will do this with the oem struts, but I am a realist.

[twiSTies]

Whats your preload like?

[dustybottoms]

Originally Posted by twiSTies

Whats your preload like?

Per advice on nasioc and this board, the preload is set on each coil to where the spring no longer rotates by hand.

[twiSTies]

Originally Posted by dustybottoms

Per advice on nasioc and this board, the preload is set on each coil to where the spring no longer rotates by hand.

ok good, thats the first place i always recommend people to check because of how awful the ride can get if its not set correctly.

i'm assuming that you've tried every damping setting so far to try to find something you like?

Are they making any loud noises over bumps?

What is your ride height set at?

[dustybottoms]

Originally Posted by twiSTies

ok good, thats the first place i always recommend people to check because of how awful the ride can get if its not set correctly.

i'm assuming that you've tried every damping setting so far to try to find something you like?

Are they making any loud noises over bumps?

I have tried everything in terms of dampening on this car, it still is uncomfortable on the highway, particularly strips that are built in those 11 foot segments, the bobblehead has really driven me nuts.

No loud noises.

[twiSTies]

Originally Posted by dustybottoms

I have tried everything in terms of dampening on this car, it still is uncomfortable on the highway, particularly strips that are built in those 11 foot segments, the bobblehead has really driven me nuts.

No loud noises.

sounds like the valving is crap then, sorry man, you're probably going to have to get another brand.

[dustybottoms]

Originally Posted by twiSTies

sounds like the valving is crap then, sorry man, you're probably going to have to get another brand.

Right, which is the point of this post. What do you suggest?

[twiSTies]

Originally Posted by dustybottoms

Right, which is the point of this post. What do you suggest?

what is your budget?

[dustybottoms]

Originally Posted by twiSTies

what is your budget?

I'd like to stay under 2,000, but I don't believe this is a budget issue. Surely there must be a options that meet my needs which are all over the price scale.

[twiSTies]

Originally Posted by dustybottoms

I'd like to stay under 2,000, but I don't believe this is a budget issue. Surely there must be a options that meet my needs which are all over the price scale.

The best non-adjustable daily driver strut and spring setup is the Prodrive RB320 kit, which costs $1999. If you want adjustability and the ability to run any spring you want, there is the Ohlins fixed perch setup for $1850 plus cost of springs (I'd opt for the Prodrive, RCE Blacks, or JDM Pinks).

If you want to stick with coilovers, then I'd go with the following for the price range:

$1,000: BC Racing BR Series (standard 8k/6k spring rate)

$1,300: Tein SS-P (lowest spring rate of these options)

$1,450: Bilstein PSS-9 (PM Rootus for his barely used set at this price) (7k/5k spring rate)

$1890: RCE Tarmac II's (broad spring range with 2 way adjustability for the ultimate under $2k coilover setup).


Or you could wait a little bit longer and take a look at TiC's AST 1 way coilovers. They'll have more strut travel than anything on this list by far and have the best ride quality.

[dustybottoms]

Originally Posted by twiSTies

The best non-adjustable daily driver strut and spring setup is the Prodrive RB320 kit, which costs $1999. If you want adjustability and the ability to run any spring you want, there is the Ohlins fixed perch setup for $1850 plus cost of springs (I'd opt for the Prodrive, RCE Blacks, or JDM Pinks).

If you want to stick with coilovers, then I'd go with the following for the price range:

$1,000: BC Racing BR Series (standard 8k/6k spring rate)

$1,300: Tein SS-P (lowest spring rate of these options)

$1,450: Bilstein PSS-9 (PM Rootus for his barely used set at this price) (7k/5k spring rate)

$1890: RCE Tarmac II's (broad spring range with 2 way adjustability for the ultimate under $2k coilover setup).


Or you could wait a little bit longer and take a look at TiC's AST 1 way coilovers. They'll have more strut travel than anything on this list by far and have the best ride quality.

Thanks for the info! I think I'll wait on the TIC AST, unless it is going to take forever. Have they released any timeline info?

[twiSTies]

Originally Posted by dustybottoms

Thanks for the info! I think I'll wait on the TIC AST, unless it is going to take forever. Have they released any timeline info?

TiC has said around the holidays. The pricing may work out to be similar to the Ohlins Sportlines, making them the most expensive option on my list.

[aschen]

it really sounds like you are more of a strut person than a co person. I actually have helix dnas and don't mind the ride at all. That being said I think they are nearing the end of their usefull life and I am going to try struts for a while. The nice thing about having an 04 is you can use koni inserts easily. While great struts cost 05+ owners mucho denero you can have the konis for 600$ (+ a set of used wrx strut housings ~50$). Here is what I have coming to me currently:

Whiteline Camber plates 300
Tanabe gf 210 springs 200
koni inserts 600
wrx struts 50
grp n rear mounts 200
I don't think this setup will sacrifice much if anything when compared to most coilovers. Really the main compromise is I would like to get more camber than the fixed perch springs will allow, But I tink it will still be fine

[wizzman]

Konis + RCEs =

Whiteline camber plates and Whiteline 24mm f & r sways just make it even better.

[wizzman]

Originally Posted by aschen

Really the main compromise is I would like to get more camber than the fixed perch springs will allow, But I tink it will still be fine

How much negative camber do you want? I have the Whiteline plates and with the plates slid all the way out (less camber) and camber bolts maxed out for max camber (they were at -1.7 before the plates) I was at over 2 degrees of negative camber. I am running -2.1 for the winter. Will probably bump it up to -2.5 to -3 for next summer. I bet these plates could get -3.5 to 4 degrees of negative camber. I will find out next time I am in for an alignment.