Most important mod for autocross - Page 4

**SWortham** · 07-21-2008, 01:28 PM

My recommendation for starting in STU:
- Good street tires (Falken RT615's, Bridgestone RE01R's, Dunlop Z1's, Toyo R1R's, something like that)
- RCE lowering camber plates
- And lastly, I'd use the following alignment:

Front:
-2.0 degrees camber
0 toe

Rear:
-1.6 degrees camber
0 toe

These modifications should improve the balance and feel of the car while also improving lap times regardless of skill level. And this alignment can be used for street driving without any terribly uneven tire wear. I do it, and you'd never know it by looking at my tires.

And no camber bolts should be needed for this. At stock ride height rear camber should come to around -1.6 degrees give or take a tenth and that's fine. And the RCE lowering camber plates will allow up to around -2.2 degrees front camber with the stock struts. Unless you're wanting some super-aggressive camber, in my opinion these are the best camber plates to use on an otherwise unmodified suspension.

manny07sti · 07-21-2008, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SWortham

My recommendation for starting in STU:
- Good street tires (Falken RT615's, Bridgestone RE01R's, Dunlop Z1's, Toyo R1R's, something like that)
- RCE lowering camber plates
- And lastly, I'd use the following alignment:

Front:
-2.0 degrees camber
0 toe

Rear:
-1.6 degrees camber
0 toe

These modifications should improve the balance and feel of the car while also improving lap times regardless of skill level. And this alignment can be used for street driving without any terribly uneven tire wear. I do it, and you'd never know it by looking at my tires.

And no camber bolts should be needed for this. At stock ride height rear camber should come to around -1.6 degrees give or take a tenth and that's fine. And the RCE lowering camber plates will allow up to around -2.2 degrees front camber with the stock struts. The other benefit of these lowering plates is that they actually increase bump travel slightly, and they don't hurt ride quality at all. Unless you're wanting some super-aggressive camber, in my opinion these are the best camber plates to use on an otherwise unmodified suspension.

So do you think -2.5 camber is bit much.

**SWortham** · 07-21-2008, 05:31 PM

Oh, I don't know... I mean the nationally competitive guys tend to run -2.5 to -3.0 degrees camber I think. But if you're like me and you hate to mess with your alignment for every race then it's nice to have a setting that's a good compromise for everything. Of course that setting depends on how much autocrossing vs street driving you do I suppose. But yeah, I'd expect a little more uneven wear with -2.5 degrees.

**WRXBrakes** · 08-01-2008, 05:59 AM

a good seat?

***snorky*** · 08-01-2008, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WRXBrakes

a good seat?

Good point. However, you can't swap out seats in stock category and a good harness is cheaper than new seats and still very effective.

My Scroth quick fit harness was a great investment. I used to get a sore left knee from bracing myself using the dead pedal. Being strapped in also gives you a feeling of more control. I am no longer sliding all over the ****pit, constantly adjusting myself to brace for left and right turns. It's less fatiguing I think.

**WRXBrakes** · 08-01-2008, 08:36 AM

anything to keep from having to brace yourself -

Schroth 4points on an 02 WRX seat wasn't bad at all -

XDNBC · 08-01-2008, 10:15 AM

I have been running -2.4* camber for about a year and have more wear on the outside of my RE070s [which I race STU and do HPDE days with] and only 1/32 more wear on the inside of my winter all seasons [which I use from Nov- March or April]. So the camber is not that critical for tire wear.

BTW: is someone censoring the word "****pit" because that is obscene

? Why the ****ins would you do that?

***Szumita*** · 08-01-2008, 10:27 AM

honestly, seat time.

or a harness. lol also, make sure to save up for new tires

***snorky*** · 08-01-2008, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XDNBC

I have been running -2.4* camber for about a year and have more wear on the outside of my RE070s [which I race STU and do HPDE days with] and only 1/32 more wear on the inside of my winter all seasons [which I use from Nov- March or April]. So the camber is not that critical for tire wear.

BTW: is someone censoring the word "****pit" because that is obscene

? Why the ****ins would you do that?

toe is going to have a far greater effect on tire wear. combine some toe with a lot of camber and you will get accelerated inside shoulder wear.

07-21-2008, 01:28 PM	#46
SWortham Gold Member Car: 06 Subaru WRX STI Fav Mod: Ohlins struts Location: Mckinney, TX Posts: 757 Join Date: Oct 2006 Trader Rating: (0)	Re: Most important mod for autocross My recommendation for starting in STU: - Good street tires (Falken RT615's, Bridgestone RE01R's, Dunlop Z1's, Toyo R1R's, something like that) - RCE lowering camber plates - And lastly, I'd use the following alignment: Front: -2.0 degrees camber 0 toe Rear: -1.6 degrees camber 0 toe These modifications should improve the balance and feel of the car while also improving lap times regardless of skill level. And this alignment can be used for street driving without any terribly uneven tire wear. I do it, and you'd never know it by looking at my tires. And no camber bolts should be needed for this. At stock ride height rear camber should come to around -1.6 degrees give or take a tenth and that's fine. And the RCE lowering camber plates will allow up to around -2.2 degrees front camber with the stock struts. Unless you're wanting some super-aggressive camber, in my opinion these are the best camber plates to use on an otherwise unmodified suspension. This ad is not endorsed by this member. Please register or login to hide this ad. Last edited by SWortham : 08-28-2008 at 12:46 PM.

07-21-2008, 05:31 PM	#48
SWortham Gold Member Car: 06 Subaru WRX STI Fav Mod: Ohlins struts Location: Mckinney, TX Posts: 757 Join Date: Oct 2006 Trader Rating: (0)	Re: Most important mod for autocross Oh, I don't know... I mean the nationally competitive guys tend to run -2.5 to -3.0 degrees camber I think. But if you're like me and you hate to mess with your alignment for every race then it's nice to have a setting that's a good compromise for everything. Of course that setting depends on how much autocrossing vs street driving you do I suppose. But yeah, I'd expect a little more uneven wear with -2.5 degrees.

08-01-2008, 05:59 AM	#49
WRXBrakes Authorized Vendor Car: 2005 STi Fav Mod: Empty passenger seat Location: Cary NC Posts: 563 Join Date: Aug 2004 Trader Rating: (8)	Re: Most important mod for autocross a good seat?

08-01-2008, 08:36 AM	#51
WRXBrakes Authorized Vendor Car: 2005 STi Fav Mod: Empty passenger seat Location: Cary NC Posts: 563 Join Date: Aug 2004 Trader Rating: (8)	Re: Most important mod for autocross anything to keep from having to brace yourself - Schroth 4points on an 02 WRX seat wasn't bad at all -

08-01-2008, 10:15 AM	#52
XDNBC Junior STI Driver Car: 2007 STI LTD Location: Vancouver,BC Posts: 117 Join Date: Sep 2006 Trader Rating: (0)	Re: Most important mod for autocross I have been running -2.4* camber for about a year and have more wear on the outside of my RE070s [which I race STU and do HPDE days with] and only 1/32 more wear on the inside of my winter all seasons [which I use from Nov- March or April]. So the camber is not that critical for tire wear. BTW: is someone censoring the word "**pit" because that is obscene? Why the **ins would you do that?

08-01-2008, 10:27 AM	#53
*Szumita* i eat cones Car: 08.5 GTI MKv Fav Mod: 18x8 Location: ma & ri Posts: 6,553 Join Date: Oct 2006 Trader Rating: (18)	Re: Most important mod for autocross honestly, seat time. or a harness. lol also, make sure to save up for new tires