[manny07sti]

Well just had another auto-x meet this past weekend. I placed 2nd by .468. Its always less than .500 im losing by. Also its always a WRX taking the win. What other mods can help me out. Check out the results. Final Results, #6 - Event 6 May 18, 2008 - 2008-05-18

Thanks
Manny Z

[offroadracer99]

Well from your list of mods, I would say changing out your Cobb springs for the RCE yellows could help some, but not the easiest option.

Well after looking at the results, I would say the big thing is tires and Alignment. It looks like the guy who won is running the Falken Azenis 615s. For STU as a good street tire, you should go with those too when you need tires again.

Take your car in and get a nice Alignment. I got -1.9 in the front and -1.7 in the rear. 0 Toe. But I just got the bolts, you got plates, so you could go more. What do you have now?

But all this is best guess if you haven't done something like this already.

and of course more Seat Time

[syrarch04]

If you really want to be competitive:
-Ditch the Cobb suspension; get RCE yellows (or coilovers if you've got the money) and big Whiteline sways (your endlinks are fine obviously)
-Stickier tires (Falken 615, Bridgestone RE-01R, Dunlop Z1) or R-Comps (FTW)
-Negative camber.
-TIGHTEN THE NUT BEHIND THE WHEEL! You could have a thousand horsepower and the most sublime suspension on the planet, but if you can't control it, your times will still suck. Find an AutoX school, preferably an Evo school phase 1 & 2. You'll probably drop at least 2 or 3 seconds off your times after that school. Hands down, the best mod you can do to improve your times. The other guy won't know what hit him.

[manny07sti]

Originally Posted by offroadracer99

Well from your list of mods, I would say changing out your Cobb springs for the RCE yellows could help some, but not the easiest option.

Well after looking at the results, I would say the big thing is tires and Alignment. It looks like the guy who won is running the Falken Azenis 615s. For STU as a good street tire, you should go with those too when you need tires again.

Take your car in and get a nice Alignment. I got -1.9 in the front and -1.7 in the rear. 0 Toe. But I just got the bolts, you got plates, so you could go more. What do you have now?

But all this is best guess if you haven't done something like this already.

and of course more Seat Time

But the RE-01 is a better tire. Thats what all the national guys in scca run.

[manny07sti]

Originally Posted by syrarch04

If you really want to be competitive:
-Ditch the Cobb suspension; get RCE yellows (or coilovers if you've got the money) and big Whiteline sways (your endlinks are fine obviously)
-Stickier tires (Falken 615, Bridgestone RE-01R, Dunlop Z1) or R-Comps (FTW)
-Negative camber.
-TIGHTEN THE NUT BEHIND THE WHEEL! You could have a thousand horsepower and the most sublime suspension on the planet, but if you can't control it, your times will still suck. Find an AutoX school, preferably an Evo school phase 1 & 2. You'll probably drop at least 2 or 3 seconds off your times after that school. Hands down, the best mod you can do to improve your times. The other guy won't know what hit him.

So the cobb sways are not good enough. Im running -2.5 camber in the front.

[matthuntman]

Originally Posted by syrarch04

-TIGHTEN THE NUT BEHIND THE WHEEL! You could have a thousand horsepower and the most sublime suspension on the planet, but if you can't control it, your times will still suck. Find an AutoX school, preferably an Evo school phase 1 & 2. You'll probably drop at least 2 or 3 seconds off your times after that school. Hands down, the best mod you can do to improve your times. The other guy won't know what hit him.

I second this idea. Improving the driver will yield the biggest improvement in times. Spend $500 or so and do the Phase 1 and 2 of the Evolution Autocross School. Having done it myself, I can say it was worth every penny. Here's a link to their website for a schedule and info: Home

[manny07sti]

Originally Posted by matthuntman

I second this idea. Improving the driver will yield the biggest improvement in times. Spend $500 or so and do the Phase 1 and 2 of the Evolution Autocross School. Having done it myself, I can say it was worth every penny. Here's a link to their website for a schedule and info: Home

What was the best setting to set the DCCD at? While in the school.

[Szumita]

more seat time! haha

[offroadracer99]

Well for the tires, I run the Falkens 615s and I am hanging right behind or within the R compond tire guys in SM. And for a more cost effective street tire, you can pick up the 615s for about $110 each.

The Cobb Sways are fine, its the springs that need to be changed if you are spending the money on it.

I have the RCE yellows and the Cobb Sways and Strut Tower bars. I have been running this setup for over a year and I am very happy with it. Keep the bars you got and get Springs. The Cobb Springs are not really the best for Auto-x.

The only thing I really need is R tires, something for later.

Your alignment seems pretty good.

Get a to a auto-x school, even the regional level ones to start with if an Evolution School is not close, hit up other events that are close to you if you can.

as for the DCCD, leave it in auto and the car do the work.

[matthuntman]

Originally Posted by manny07sti

What was the best setting to set the DCCD at? While in the school.

Didn't have the STI when I did the Evo School...however...I've always used the AUTO mode when running on slicks.

[AmeenR]

After looking at your results (good job btw!), I can say two things right away.

1. Get on the cone! You didnt hit one single cone all day. This will vary on course design, but you still are leaving time out there if you arent running the tightest line gate to gate as possible (which usually means killing some cones).

2. Invest a few bucks in a garden sprayer for your tires as they will fall off very quickly once they get too much heat in them. Your fastest run was your 3rd out of 6. If you were competing at a divisional or national event, this would be perfect but this isnt the case. Aim to get a little be quicker with each run.

Aside from the driver mod, tires will be the biggest mod, that will yield the largest change in how your car performs, especially in an autox enviroment. Handling upgrades will drop your times almost always before any power adder will help. The RE01R's are a very popular tire with the street touring crowd, but still seem like they come up short compared to the new Dunlop Z1 star specs, and the ol Yokohama Neovas.

It appears that STI's prefer anywhere from -3.5 to -2.5 camber up front and -1.5 to - 0.5 in the rear. The only way to really get your camber dialed in is with a tire pyrometer (yes, the one with the temperature probe, those temperature guns are not consistent enough). Aim for a 10 degree (F) gradient across the tread surface of the tire - hottest on the inside, middle in between, and coolest on the outside. Tire pressure will affect the middle temperature of the tire (usually adding psi increases and bleeding out psi will drop the center temps). 1/8th to 1/4" toe out will help with turn in.

A lot of people seem to underestimate the importance simple things like the course walk, ambient/surface temps, surface irregularities/conditions. Our cars often take completely different lines than other RWD and FWD setups. A wet and/or bumpy course will eat you alive if you come out running huge swaybars set to full stiff.

Seat time Seat time Seat time. Ride-alongs with other people. Slow in - Fast out......And oh yeah, LOOKAHEAD!!!

[manny07sti]

Originally Posted by AmeenR

After looking at your results (good job btw!), I can say two things right away.

1. Get on the cone! You didnt hit one single cone all day. This will vary on course design, but you still are leaving time out there if you arent running the tightest line gate to gate as possible (which usually means killing some cones).

2. Invest a few bucks in a garden sprayer for your tires as they will fall off very quickly once they get too much heat in them. Your fastest run was your 3rd out of 6. If you were competing at a divisional or national event, this would be perfect but this isnt the case. Aim to get a little be quicker with each run.

Aside from the driver mod, tires will be the biggest mod, that will yield the largest change in how your car performs, especially in an autox enviroment. Handling upgrades will drop your times almost always before any power adder will help. The RE01R's are a very popular tire with the street touring crowd, but still seem like they come up short compared to the new Dunlop Z1 star specs, and the ol Yokohama Neovas.

It appears that STI's prefer anywhere from -3.5 to -2.5 camber up front and -1.5 to - 0.5 in the rear. The only way to really get your camber dialed in is with a tire pyrometer (yes, the one with the temperature probe, those temperature guns are not consistent enough). Aim for a 10 degree (F) gradient across the tread surface of the tire - hottest on the inside, middle in between, and coolest on the outside. Tire pressure will affect the middle temperature of the tire (usually adding psi increases and bleeding out psi will drop the center temps). 1/8th to 1/4" toe out will help with turn in.

A lot of people seem to underestimate the importance simple things like the course walk, ambient/surface temps, surface irregularities/conditions. Our cars often take completely different lines than other RWD and FWD setups. A wet and/or bumpy course will eat you alive if you come out running huge swaybars set to full stiff.

Seat time Seat time Seat time. Ride-alongs with other people. Slow in - Fast out......And oh yeah, LOOKAHEAD!!!

Thank you for the advice...trust me i will use it. What would u set the DCCD at?

[AmeenR]

I've tried several runs in every mode (except for full lock) and it really just comes down to the amount of grip available. Concrete surfaces like runways will all your tires to grip a ton more than something like sealed asphalt. That being said, if its a site where the surface lacks grip, I've had good results with the lowest orange manual setting. Just make sure you don't engage it until your wheels are straightened forward for your launch. Auto has proven to give me the quickest times almost always. Feel free to experiment with what YOU like the feel of best.

[manny07sti]

Originally Posted by AmeenR

I've tried several runs in every mode (except for full lock) and it really just comes down to the amount of grip available. Concrete surfaces like runways will all your tires to grip a ton more than something like sealed asphalt. That being said, if its a site where the surface lacks grip, I've had good results with the lowest orange manual setting. Just make sure you don't engage it until your wheels are straightened forward for your launch. Auto has proven to give me the quickest times almost always. Feel free to experiment with what YOU like the feel of best.

All my meets are on a local parking lot. I've tried auto but the car was all over the place. I've tried lock and the car to me had alot of grip. But im goin to try auto for the next race.

[syrarch04]

Originally Posted by manny07sti

So the cobb sways are not good enough. Im running -2.5 camber in the front.

There's nothing wrong with them, they're just a little on the soft side for competition use, especially with really sticky tires (the more grip a tire is capable of generating, the more force you can put on it through the suspension). You can certainly use them, you're just leaving a little time on the table. That camber should be good, especially for a street driven car. Be careful adding toe beyond zero on a daily driver, even an 1/8" can dramatically increase tire wear. It would help turn in though. Let us know how you do.