[dannyblaze_07]

Hi Guys,
Does anyone have a detailed write up on how to install the maddad boost gauge in the subject line above.

Do you guys have any suggestions on where to mount the gauge and what gauge pod i should use? thanks in advance.

[dannyblaze_07]

anyone?

[dannyblaze_07]

no one?

[dannyblaze_07]

somebody

[BlackSTI2006]

If you havent found any help, calling Rich at Daddy's is a good idea he will help you out. I just met with Rich last night. After having a temporary Amber V1 Boost gauge until the new gauges came in i had been very happy. Rich hooked me up with the new V2 Ti amber gauges(not released yet ive got the prototypes) 5 of them actually and a 3 gauge pillar pod...I know the instructions that come with it arent very detailed and im still having an issue i tried to install them this morning....

for your single boost application, i used the double-sided tape to stick it on the left of the dash in front of the defroster by the pillar....i didnt want it to be in the way of my main cluster and it looked good there temporarily in the gauge mount rich gave me.....many companies make different options but make sure to get a 52mm sized mount if you decide to get a nice POD or pillar mount or whatnot.....

for wiring, the sending unit needs to be afixed to CONSTANT power, nothing that shuts off with the ignition is what i have found out or it wont work correctly...

next, the sending unit must be mounted as close as possible to the bypass valve that you are using as a boost source and not be subjected to high heat or vibration so find a solid mounting area such as the AC line by the firewall...

after afixing the boost solenoid run the white wire from the sending unit through the rubber plug in the firewall into the cabin and youll most likely need wire to extend it to your gauges wiring harness....connect the white wire to the green wire,(i know stupid the harness has a white wire also but that is for the dimming option)...

if your mounting the gauge where i suggested you can groun the wire and give it a power source from the interior fuse pannel....strip the end of the red power wire and tap into one of the fuses (i used the 15amp on the top row next to the door locks i forget what its for haha)

next strip the black ground wire and i soldered it to the metal dash mount behind the dash to the right of the fuse pannel(i know im kinda ghetto but it works well for me and put some tape over it to protect it ( i blew a main fuse the other night by accident haha)

now your gauges should have power when the ignition is on....once you run the white wire from the sending unit make sure its properly affixed to the green wire of the gauges harness....if you choose too, you can tap the white wire from the gauge harness into the illumination fuse and that will dim the gauge when the lights are turned on...

now you should be allset, run the wires to your gauges location, plug them in and test out....i am hoping i can fix my misreading boost gauge tomorow after i relocate the sending unit because i didnt know it needed to be mounted a certain way close to the source.....

feel free to contact me with any questions, id be glad to help you out and get in touch with rich to help you out....

[dannyblaze_07]

thanks!. i'm going to have a go at it once i get my car back from the body shop .

[daddysscp]

BlackSTI2006 has a set of pre-production Ti series gauges which wire up sightly different. For RX series see below.

You'll have the following wires on the wire harness that plugs into the back of the gauge:

White
Red
Black
Green


White - should go to a always on 12v source. This could be the BAT terminal on the clock pod harness or you could use the Door Lock fuse from the inside fuse box. There other other fuses that could be used as well.

Red - Switched 12V source. Ignition fuse is a good one for this or ACC on the Clock pod harness

Black - goes to ground. GRN on the clock pod, or look for a good screw to a metal bracket under the dash or if all else fails extend a 18 guage wire to the batter negative terminal(drastic).

Green - Should go to your headlight fuse or LIG on the clock pod(lighting). On Green/Green or Blue/Blue gauges this will dim the backlighting when the headlights are turned on(by a fixed amount). For White/Green it will simply illuminate the gauge since the White/Greens are not lit at any other time. This is also the wire that you would but the 10K or 5.6K ohm resistor on to reduce the brightness level to a factory type level...THIS POINT IS ONLY VALID FOR THE WHITE/GREEN GAUGES which are super bright when backlight due to their bolder font.

The Sending units on the V2 Rx seris are a piece of cake because they get everything they need in way of power and ground from the gauge itself. You still put a T connector in place like a mechanical gauge and then run the pressure tube to the input on the sending unit...which i turn plugs into the sending unit wire harness that plugs into the back of the gauge.

Hope that helps. I'm way behind on putting together a detailed FAQ with photos. Let me know if you have any other questions.

R.

[dannyblaze_07]

thanks, rich. i haven't started the install yet. if i come across any bumps or blocks during the install, i'll be sure to pm you if i have any questions. thanks for your time & knowledge, sir.