[AnorexicSTI]

Originally Posted by sanhedrin

Reinstall lines to Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder. (note: the bend in
the line must go towards the body of the Slave Cylinder.)

Please note angle of the line relative to the Slave Cylinder for proper
fitment. Now tighten all fittings (snug + 1/8 turn)

Here is the original thread if anybody is interested:
Clutch delay valve repost (with pics)

I've been looking at doing this mod, but there must be a better way than removing the Ferrel. Why not just leave the Ferrel in there and run the hard line from the MC directly to the SC with a bit of bending? It would only need to be moved about 2" which should be more than within the range of bendability of the line without damage. That way you eliminate the rubber line and banjo bolt COMPLETELY. The other method I thought of is to get a custom SS line with the male fittings on each end to connect MC to SC.

Now, as for the bolt, that bottoming out method with the 2 copper washers seems hokey. I think the best method would be to reuse the stock washer and get a SHORTER bolt. Where can I get one? (sorry I just reread it and apparently Nissan or Volvo is only 10mm long and should work without bottoming out... I'm gonna try contacting my local volvo or nissan dealer... )

[arnoha]

Originally Posted by AnorexicSTI

Here is the original thread if anybody is interested:
Clutch delay valve repost (with pics)

I've been looking at doing this mod, but there must be a better way than removing the Ferrel. Why not just leave the Ferrel in there and run the hard line from the MC directly to the SC with a bit of bending? It would only need to be moved about 2" which should be more than within the range of bendability of the line without damage. That way you eliminate the rubber line and banjo bolt COMPLETELY. The other method I thought of is to get a custom SS line with the male fittings on each end to connect MC to SC.

Now, as for the bolt, that bottoming out method with the 2 copper washers seems hokey. I think the best method would be to reuse the stock washer and get a SHORTER bolt. Where can I get one? (sorry I just reread it and apparently Nissan or Volvo is only 10mm long and should work without bottoming out... I'm gonna try contacting my local volvo or nissan dealer... )

Don't do that. You must have a section of flexible tubing between the master and the slave. The transmission, on which the slave is mounted, moves around quite a bit relative to the body, where the master is mounted. If you connect the two with a hard line, the line will quickly fatigue and break. Using a SS line would be fine. Be sure to provide enough slack for the motion of the transmission.

If you read the rest of the thread, the same suggestion about the shorter bolt is made. Seems to work great.

BTW...it's spelled "ferrule".

[Neanderthal Racing]

Originally Posted by AnorexicSTI

Now, as for the bolt, that bottoming out method with the 2 copper washers seems hokey. I think the best method would be to reuse the stock washer and get a SHORTER bolt. Where can I get one? (sorry I just reread it and apparently Nissan or Volvo is only 10mm long and should work without bottoming out... I'm gonna try contacting my local volvo or nissan dealer... )

the easiest way to do the second step is the alternative method i posted in that original thread. you keep the stock plug and just tap the hole to fit a slghtly larger (than the hole) set screw to plug the reservoir.

personally, i see no reason to monkey with a proven way to do the delete. do both stages as described and youre in business.