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Old 09-13-2006, 03:07 PM   #31
ALi
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thanks royalsti! it looks like a tedious project.. but will do it if i have the time..
cheers


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Old 09-13-2006, 08:57 PM   #32
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Here are some more related links that helped with my project. They aren't exactly turbo install instructions but there might be some stuff on these links for you:

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/att...ttachmentid=94

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...=header+remove

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1075445
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Old 09-13-2006, 09:06 PM   #33
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Default Stock VF39 is on the right











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Old 09-13-2006, 10:03 PM   #34
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a lot of thanks guys!! i have to register at scoobymods first.. hehe..

Last edited by ALi : 09-13-2006 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 09-26-2006, 08:39 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jenzos
Okay Here it goes:


1.Remove the center exhaust pipe
2. Seperate the turbo joint pipe from turbo charger
3. Disconnect the engine coolant hose which is connected to coolant filter tank
4. Loosen clamp that secures turbo to intake duct
5. Remove bolt which secures the bracket oil pipe to the turbo
6. Remove the oil pipe from turbo
7. Disconnect the engine coolant hose
8. Remove Turbo bracket
9. Disconnect the oil outlet hose from pipe
10. take out the turbo

and installation is the same thing just backwards.


put up your email and ill send you a PDF if you want.
By "center exhaust pipe" do you mean up-pipe and if so, why do you have to remove it completely? Couldn't you just unbolt the turbo from the up-pipe flange? Something seems to be missing here.

CB
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Old 09-28-2006, 02:25 PM   #36
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I just did a stage 4 install on my buddy's 06 WRX wagon. It took a total of 2 days. Items I installed:
  1. Blouche 18g
  2. Ebay 2.5" inlet
  3. modded blue injectors
  4. Walbro 255lph fuel pump
  5. Turbo XS tmic
  6. one step colder NGK sparkplugs
off the shelf map for 20g Cobb AP

First I installed the fuel pump. I was familiar since I've already done this on my STi, took about an hour. First remove the Neg side of the battery connection and do not smoke at this time. Also be aware of any thing that could ignite gas fumes, even static electricity, such as anyone getting in and out of the car durinig this install. Access is under the panel behind the rear seats on the passenger side. Remove access panel with several 8mm nuts, then disconnect hoses by pressing on the retaining tabs, then disconnect the harnesses by pressing on the release tabs on the harness plugs. Carefully pull out the fuel pump assembly by rotating it out being careful not to damage the assembly. After pulling off the fuel line hoses try to drain the remaining fuel from the pump by tilting it and empty it out in the tank. Take the assembly back to a work counter and remove the clamps holding on the hose by moving the hose clamps with pliers, then remove the hose. Disconnect the two harnesses and remove the fuel pump and bottom rubber mount from the bracket. You can take the Walbro and test fit it in the bracket. It is a little longer so I had to bend the bottom of the bracket a little downward with a Vise grip. You will not be able to fit the Walbro in the bracket with the rubber piece at the bottom unless you do this. When placing the walbro in the fuel pump assembly bracket, the pipes from the assembly and the Walbro will touch. Take the hose and line it up parallel against the pipes to measure how much of the hose needs to be cut. Slip the two supplied worm gear clamps over the hose and slip the hose to the pipe on the bracket. Place the rubber mount in the bracket, then place the Walbro in the bracket while inserting the fuel pump outlet pipe into the hose, tighten the clamps, and wrap and secure 8" zip ties around the Walbro and bracket.

Second I installed the silicone ebay inlet. I had to cut off the plastic bracket that attatches to the intake manifold and a couple of the nipples off the inlet. I cut one nipple had a sensor attatched to it and left the sensor on but zip tied it to a nearby harness.Removed the clamp on the inlet tube attatched to the turbo inlet. Then with a little pulling and rotating got the inlet out. Then installed the Ebay inlet. It was easier to install since it was more flexable. You have to remove all the barb fittings first to route this under the intake manifold.

Third I installed the sparkplugs. First to make access you have to remove the battery and the windshield wiper resevior. Then on the otherside you have to remove the intake elbow, stock airbox. We also removed the resenator box and elbo in the passenger fender. You can access that by removing the wheel well liner. Then I loosened the bolts that holds the coil packs. I just used a 3/8" ratchet and extension. After loosening you just pull the coil packs out. I just left them hanging on the harnesses. Then with the ratchet, an extension, a universal u-joint, and spark plug socket I placed the socket in the spark plug cavity and fitted it over the plug. Then you connect the ratchet to the extension and turn counterclockwise till you feel the spark plug loosen from the threads. Then I removed the ratchet and turned the extension by hand until you remove the spark plug. When installing the new plugs I spread anti-sieze on the threads for ease of removal for future replacements.

My buddy found an awesome link for the injectors on a WRX which should be similar to the STi. Make sure you have 1/4" ratchet, 6-10" long extension, swivel sockets will work best but if not get wobble adapter or universal u-joint adapter, then a seet of Gearwrench ratcheting, swivel combo wrench . Here's the link: http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showthread.php?t=134534

Turbo install info will continue.
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Old 07-23-2008, 12:38 PM   #37
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Default Re: Turbo Install

I am putting a new vf39 on as we speak, and I have everything on secure. I am hesitant about the oil outlet line below the turbo. How can I re-assure it is on all the way without unbolting everything again. thanks
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Old 07-23-2008, 03:11 PM   #38
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Default Re: Turbo Install

nvm got it, priming and firing it up after the rain!


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