[lokutus1]

txs knocklite

[kts262]

Originally Posted by lokutus1

txs knocklite

Shoulda done a search, there are a ton of posts on here and NASIOC about the install.
Sadly no pics if the installs in any of these, but it looks like it's easy enough. One of the posts mentioned that the instructions that came with it worked great, did you get one w/o instructions or a used one? TurboXS will probably hook you up with a copy of the instructions if you call 'em.

Want to buy one for me and I'll install it and take pics for ya?

Check these links for some more info:

TurboXS Knocklite write up
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...cklite+install
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...cklite+install

and info on the ECU pin outs (05 STI):

http://www.pdxtuning.com/images/how_to/AVCR_STi_05.JPG

[lokutus1]

thanks for the links. yeah, i searched and saw those posts. i was hoping for some pics. i'm more of a visual learner i just wanted to see what the best way to route the wires is and how it was done. i'm also curious about the best way to tap the ecu knock and rpm signals. should i just use t-taps? i've tapped for power and ground before, but not a signal. i'm just a little worried cause i've never messed w/ the ecu and don't want to mess up. also, is it better to use a bosch sensor or does it not really matter? i'll buy you one in exchange for $125

[kts262]

Originally Posted by lokutus1

thanks for the links. yeah, i searched and saw those posts. i was hoping for some pics. i'm more of a visual learner i just wanted to see what the best way to route the wires is and how it was done. i'm also curious about the best way to tap the ecu knock and rpm signals. should i just use t-taps? i've tapped for power and ground before, but not a signal. i'm just a little worried cause i've never messed w/ the ecu and don't want to mess up. also, is it better to use a bosch sensor or does it not really matter? i'll buy you one in exchange for $125

I hear you, I'm a visual person too.

T-Taps would be the easily way to tap the connection and you shouldn't screw anything up with that. I'm far from an electrical guru so maybe someone else can chime in, but I don't see an easier/better way to tap into the signal.

It looks like the knocklite can hook up to the stock knock sensor. I'd probably just tap the stock one and use that.

Hmmmm I don't have the $ for it but now I'm intrigued and want one... maybe if you wait a few weeks I'll buy one and install it and write it up.

[JimmyD17]

how about a perrin front mount on an 06??

[WESTI]

can someone do a how to install for the new spt intake?

[Endless_STi]

Could someone please do a complete write up on how to do an oil change? I am really sick of going to the dealer and having them do it for $32.00. I still do oil changes on my old cars, but the STi seems harder for some reason. So if someone could teach me how to do a oil change step by step. It would be great. Thanks!

[WESTI]

^^^ id like to see that too and if someone could recommend a good oil that would be even better

[kts262]

Originally Posted by Endless_STi

Could someone please do a complete write up on how to do an oil change? I am really sick of going to the dealer and having them do it for $32.00. I still do oil changes on my old cars, but the STi seems harder for some reason. So if someone could teach me how to do a oil change step by step. It would be great. Thanks!

I was debating about taking photos and writing this up last weekend when I did it but figured it wasn't needed. Doh!

Changing the oil on the STi is very easy. It's the same for the WRX, etc too. See these links for info/pics:

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3014

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=786772

Basically:

1. Let the car warm up for a minute or two. It will help the oil flow out easier. Don't leave it on too long though since you will be close to exhaust pipes and you don't want to get burned. Really hot oil hurts too.
2. Get the car up on the air (ramps or jack+jackstands)
3. Remove plastic splashguard (4 plastic clips and 5 12mm bolts)
4. Put something under the drain plug to catch the oil, and use a 17mm socket to remove the drain plug and let the oil drain out
5. Once the oil is all out put a new crush washer on the drain plug and tighten the drain plug back up
6. Remove the oil filter. You should be able to remove it by hand but you might need a filter removal tool or (ugh) a screwdriver rammed through the filter to turn it loose.
7. Let the oil drain out from the oil filter and where the oil filter is screwed in.
8. Prepare the new oil filter. Put some oil in it and also a dab of oil on the rubber gasket on the filter.
9. Once the oil has stopped coming out put the new filter on. You only need to make it hand tight, anything else and you'll make it rough on yourself next time you change the oil and/or possibly strip the threads.
10. Up top fill up the car with 4.7 quarts of oil. When the dipstick is on the Full line you're good.
11. Fire up the engine for a few seconds and then check to make sure there are no leaks.
12. Reinstall splashguard
13. Lower car onto the ground
14. Drive off with a smile on your face since you only spent $25 for an oil change (less if you use dino oil instead of synthetic)

Ive been using Mobil 1 5w30 and I used Mobil 1 10w30 once before and have been happy with both. Read the Oil FAQ on NASIOC for some more info on oils. Subaru says to use 5w30 on the car, 10w30 will work as well if you aren't in extremely cold environments.

ninja edit: You can remove the oil filter w/o removing the spashguard if you really want to but it makes it harder to do the oil change and you'll spill oil all over your pretty splashguard. I did this the very first time I changed my oil, since then I've removed the splashguard since it's easier to do it this way and it doesn't make a big mess.

[ChristianCGM]

I found this over on nasioc, it will be pretty useful for me this weekend. These are instructions on how to swap the torsion bars for the trunk when doing a swap.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...73#post8209873

[kts262]

Thanks for the link ChristianCGM! I'm going to need that in a few weeks when I get my WRX trunk back from being painted.

[Endless_STi]

Originally Posted by kts262

I was debating about taking photos and writing this up last weekend when I did it but figured it wasn't needed. Doh!

Changing the oil on the STi is very easy. It's the same for the WRX, etc too. See these links for info/pics:

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3014

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=786772

Basically:

1. Let the car warm up for a minute or two. It will help the oil flow out easier. Don't leave it on too long though since you will be close to exhaust pipes and you don't want to get burned. Really hot oil hurts too.
2. Get the car up on the air (ramps or jack+jackstands)
3. Remove plastic splashguard (4 plastic clips and 5 12mm bolts)
4. Put something under the drain plug to catch the oil use a 17mm socket to remove the drain plug and let the oil drain out
5. Once the oil is all out put a new crush washer on the drain plug and tighten the drain plug back up
6. Remove the oil filter. You should be able to remove it by hand but you might need a filter removal tool or (ugh) a screwdriver rammed through the filter to turn it loose.
7. Let the oil drain out from the oil filter and where the oil filter is screwed in.
8. Prepare the new oil filter. Put some oil in it and also a dab of oil on the rubber gasket on the filter.
9. Once the oil has stopped coming out put the new filter on. You only need to make it hand tight, anything else and you'll make it rough on yourself next time you change the oil and/or possibly strip the threads.
10. Up top fill up the car with 4.7 quarts of oil. When the dipstick is on the Full line your good.
11. Fire up the engine for a few seconds and then check to make sure there are no leaks.
12. Reinstall splashguard
13. Lower car onto the ground
14. Drive off with a smile on your face since you only spent $25 for an oil change (less if you use dino oil instead of synthetic)

Ive been using Mobil 1 5w30 and I used Mobil 1 10w30 once before and have been happy with both. Read the Oil FAQ on NASIOC for some more info on oils. Subaru says to use 5w30 on the car, 10w30 will work as well if you aren't in extremely cold environments.

ninja edit: You can remove the oil filter w/o removing the spashguard if you really want to but it makes it harder to do the oil change and you'll spill oil all over your pretty splashguard. I did this the very first time I changed my oil, since then I've removed the splashguard since it's easier to do it this way and it doesn't make a big mess.

thank you so much!

[Jag32]

I would like to know how to install my Prodrive Diff Protector, the Prodrive instructions are awful!

[kts262]

Originally Posted by Jag32

I would like to know how to install my Prodrive Diff Protector, the Prodrive instructions are awful!

I didn't find them to be that bad. It's pretty straight forward and you could do it without instructions probably.

Basically:

1. Get the car in the air
2. Put the Diff Protector up by the rear diff to figure out what bolts you'll need to remove.
3. Remove the bottom 2 bolts of the rear diff and install the Protector mounting bracket. Then tighten the bolts back down.
4. Remove the 2 larger bolts in front of the rear diff. Install the Protector mounting pieces and then loosely tighten down the bolts.
5. Install the Protector to the mounting pieces and bracket.
6. Tighten everything down
7. You're done.

Shouldn't take more than ~ 15 minutes. You might need a breaker bar to get the bigger bolts loose. I can't remember if I used one or not.

[Jag32]

Originally Posted by kts262

I didn't find them to be that bad. It's pretty straight forward and you could do it without instructions probably.

Basically:

1. Get the car in the air
2. Put the Diff Protector up by the rear diff to figure out what bolts you'll need to remove.
3. Remove the bottom 2 bolts of the rear diff and install the Protector mounting bracket. Then tighten the bolts back down.
4. Remove the 2 larger bolts in front of the rear diff. Install the Protector mounting pieces and then loosely tighten down the bolts.
5. Install the Protector to the mounting pieces and bracket.
6. Tighten everything down
7. You're done.

Shouldn't take more than ~ 15 minutes. You might need a breaker bar to get the bigger bolts loose. I can't remember if I used one or not.

Thanks! When I tighten the bolts back down, should I just tighten them as hard as I possibly can or should I do it to a specific torque setting?

Thanks