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Old 05-15-2006, 02:17 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moderato
That's why I never "launch" my car. It's just too abusive. When I want to get going from a stop with some Gusto I just do a quick slip at low rpms and once my foot is off the clutch pedal and the clutch is 100% hooked up then I floor it. This method is enough to get away from all the "normal" cars out there with no problem and there's no extra wear on the car in anyway. With all the car's I've owned I've realized that if you want a car that's good for stoplight launches STI's & M3's aren't it. Launching these cars is just too abusive. The best cars for this job are cars like the C6 Vette & hooked up Mustangs. These cars can do 0 - 60 runs all day long and not even notice. I'm not critizing you in away, please don't take me the wrong way, but I'm just sharing my point of view on this topic.
Hence why I tried it on a loose dirt road! I am too afraid of hurting my baby by doing it on pavement.


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Old 05-15-2006, 03:39 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by fourseasonsandles
Hence why I tried it on a loose dirt road! I am too afraid of hurting my baby by doing it on pavement.
Just get the car rolling, nice and easy and then get on it. As long as you shift smootly you won't damage anything. Don't slip the clutch too much and never drop it.
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Old 05-15-2006, 03:41 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by fourseasonsandles
Some hole in the ground..

This one just became my backround, Thanks! I have a CGM STI and I live in NW Connecticut so it's perfect for me, looks just like home.
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Old 05-27-2006, 03:26 PM   #64
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Default Home Depot Racing Intake

After doing a little research I decided I am going to go with the silencer delete, but instead of having air just drawn from the fender. I took an Idea that I saw on a couple of cars and decided to make a "Ram/Cold Air" intake.

I visted Home Depot Racing and picked up a 3" aluminum dryer exhaust hose, a 3" to 3" rubber connecter for PVC pipe, 1 metal clamp and ordered a passenger side Fog Light Bezel from Subaru Genuine Parts.com. I got my Silencer delete instructions from ScoobyMods "Forester XT Silencer Removal" post and followed them to remove the silencer. I then used this thread for inspiration and just sort of winged it from there.

It doesnt look too bad from the outside. Except for the whole squished bug thing I have going on.


I had to cut some of the inside of the plastic bumper to get my rubber adapter, clamp and dryer hose to fit but you cant tell at all from the outside. I used the old snorkle screw hole and put a tie wrap through it to hold the hose in place. There is a small piece of wood you can see under the hose to hold that in place until the silicone dryed on the fog light bezel.


I ran the hose right up to the airbox hole and pulled the exess through the hole to be cut later.


Just another view! Yay GF210's!!


Finally the hose coming through the air box. I used 3" dryer tubing instead of 4" because the hole in the fender wall will only fit 3". I figured why go from 4" to 3" when I can just make the entire intake 3". I reinstalled all of the airbox and filter and took it for a ride.


Now I dont know what some of you are thinking, but with the snorkle gone you can definitly hear a difference in the turbo and BPV. It was also fun to do gives me at least another 50whp! I also dont think it hurts any to have colder/more condensed air coming into the air box.

Well hope you enjoyed and feel free to ask questions if you got them.

Last edited by fourseasonsandles; 09-14-2007 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 05-27-2006, 04:15 PM   #65
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The intake looks pretty damn good, nice work. I would only worry about ingesting water, like when driving behind a car on thruway in the rain. There's alot of water to digest in this situation- I don't know may or may not be a concern...but I think you can help cope with this by bending a small sag into the lower section of the dryer hose (just after the foglight cover) so that water can pool there, then drill a small hole on the bottom side hose so it can drain out. my 2 cents
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Old 05-27-2006, 05:29 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOOBYTRAP
The intake looks pretty damn good, nice work. I would only worry about ingesting water, like when driving behind a car on thruway in the rain. There's alot of water to digest in this situation- I don't know may or may not be a concern...but I think you can help cope with this by bending a small sag into the lower section of the dryer hose (just after the foglight cover) so that water can pool there, then drill a small hole on the bottom side hose so it can drain out. my 2 cents
Thanks! I actually thought of that as well but I figured that is a long way up for water to travel. I'm no expert though.. I'll see how it goes and if I have to change it.. I'll change it!
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Old 05-27-2006, 08:00 PM   #67
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Trust me, I'm no expert either. I just go with my engineering instincts
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Old 06-02-2006, 12:06 PM   #68
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That is a pretty original idea mate.
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Old 06-02-2006, 12:35 PM   #69
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Def a good idea and very clean install. I am in the process of doing this as well..

A good idea would be to drill two small holes...for water
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Old 06-03-2006, 06:12 AM   #70
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Drill a few holes at the bottom of the hose. Its very hard for the water to go up, specially with all the rings in the hose.
Drill a few at the bottom and just in case maybe half way up. All in all it looks great. You might want to put a small mesh screen too.
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Old 06-03-2006, 06:37 AM   #71
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Yeah put some mesh on it!
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Old 06-03-2006, 11:53 AM   #72
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Looks great man.

Does anyone wonder if using a smoother piping would provide better/less turbulent results?

Not saying this isn't awesome or anything, but if you could find some smooth-yet-flexible say silicone or something similar for the same price, would it be "better" on maf readings, etc? Or am I over-optimizing....

Reason I ask is because most of the turbo-inlet vendors complain about the lack of smooth inner passage of the stock inlet.... wondering if that is a valid complaint?

Thanks for sharing! I may try this over the weekend.
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:46 PM   #73
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Thanks guys! I thought about the small holes and possibly a redesign so I can pull it apart easily for winter. I have all summer to worry about that though.

Turbulance from my research I dont think makes much of a difference in this case. I think that because the air is hitting the filter and then being pulled into the turbo to the intercooler.. There is turbulance just about everywhere. I couldnt tell you for sure, but this was just my thinking.

As far as water goes...Yesterday I drove to and from Watkins Glen for the IRL race in the rain. At times it was pretty heavy. I checked the filter when I got home and it wasnt even damp. I like the idea of a few small holes, so I'll get to that mod when I install my V-Limited replica. When I open the air box to check for water I did find there was some very small pieces of leaves, bugs etc in the air box, nothing to really worry about, but I am def going to hook it up with some type of screen. Most likely something like this:

Last edited by fourseasonsandles; 06-05-2006 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:48 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iguana
That is a pretty original idea mate.
Not so much original.. I had some help from around here.. but thanks anyway!
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Old 06-05-2006, 09:47 PM   #75
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Did this today, thanks for the writeup. I am currently lacking the foglamp bezel, but will probably order it tonight.

Did you happen to take any pictures of the connection between hose and the lamp hole? I am wondering if it can be done without the silicone connector. Wil the aluminum hose fit around the opening of of the lamp housing without the coupling?

Thanks!

PS- I was completely underwhelmed by the sound difference. Was really hoping it'd be more. Could hear the bov _slightly_ more. This was with all the windows down and me strategically timing it so that I'd be next to an echo surface. Dang. It was completely easy not hear any difference over the roar of my exhaust.


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