[520]

looking good fullerben

[mk112288]

Originally Posted by stretch

Nice, 17 degrees of SAI will give you a nice camber curve. Does that mean your camber plates are maxed out, and they backed off using the OE eccentric bolt? (That's how it should be done, IMO.)

I'd like to see a little more camber in the rear, though, as you said. Perhaps Ohlins doesn't drill their rear strut mount holes properly for USA cars, cause that's just crazy that you couldn't get more camber even with an eccentric bolt.


That's a really neat idea!

That rear camber was done with eccentric bolts?! I got near that on the stock rear bolts (-0.8 on both sides as I remember). I was told by my alignment shop that the thing to go for would be the adjustable lateral links for the best possible camber adjustments.

[fullerton]

The rear camber is done with bolts. I still don't believe them and will be trying to get more and text it with my new digital level. These tires are so close to being spent that I can handle some messed up toe for a while.

I might even add another eccentric bolt to the mix and see what happens.

Per adjustable lateral links- I have read about people using them for adjustment of camber and they have actually destroyed bits (I believe it was the CV Joints) due to the increased axle length. Whiteline has stated that only minimal camber adjustments should be performed with their links, they are primarilt designed for toe adjustments.

[MKTURBO]

ben did you cover the underside of the i/c too?

[fullerton]

I covered all the sides. They were a bit angled at times, so yes, the underside is covered. I also wrapped the entire y-pipe.

[fullerton]

Originally Posted by chaos311clarity

someone want to PM me and tell me wtf SAI is? lol

No PM, but here you go. Borrowed from familycar.com:

SAI is the measurement in degrees of the steering pivot line when viewed from the front of the vehicle. This angle, when added to the camber to form the included angle (see below) causes the vehicle to lift slightly when you turn the wheel away from a straight ahead position. This action uses the weight of the vehicle to cause the steering wheel to return to the center when you let go of it after making a turn. Because of this, if the SAI is different from side to side, it will cause a pull at very slow speeds. Most alignment machines have a way to measure SAI; however it is not separately adjustable. The most likely cause for SAI being out is bent parts which must be replaced to correct the condition. SAI is also referred to as KPI (King Pin Inclination) on trucks and old cars with king pins instead of ball joints.

Included angle is the angle formed between the SAI and the camber. Included angle is not directly measurable. To determine the included angle, you add the SAI to the camber. If the camber is negative, then the included angle will be less than the SAI, if the camber is positive, it will be greater. The included angle must be the same from side to side even if the camber is different. If it is not the same, then something is bent, most likely the steering knuckle.

[fullerton]

Originally Posted by stretch

Nice, 17 degrees of SAI will give you a nice camber curve. Does that mean your camber plates are maxed out, and they backed off using the OE eccentric bolt?

Actually, I still have about 6 ticks of adjustment on the camber plates. I only went about 40% negative on them. I plan on dropping them to close to max for track duty.

And this forum needs multi-quote for the lazy.

[MKTURBO]

seriously....why doesn't it have multi quote...oh well just have to post whore like nan........ben i bet all that wraping and covering makes a serious difference!

[nandanrp]

Originally Posted by MKTURBO

seriously....why doesn't it have multi quote...oh well just have to post whore like nan........ben i bet all that wraping and covering makes a serious difference!

Hey jackass... go look at my posts... I multi-quote even though it's more difficult.

[fullerton]

nan:

Originally Posted by fullerton

And this forum needs multi-quote for the lazy.

<i know you wern't talking to me>

[MKTURBO]

Originally Posted by nandanrp

Hey jackass... go look at my posts... I multi-quote even though it's more difficult.

you know im just messing around......i know you multi quote

[fullerton]

Primary readings:
my heat shield thing seems to be doing a good job. after my evening commute, which i did fairly hard in 95° heat and no ic spray, the ic was at 110° on the fins, 135° on the side above the turbo, and 130° on the other side. Turbo/HS were about 200°. The intake manifold was about 185°, the alternator about 200°, the stock ram air about 115°, APS CAI about 130°...

More testing to come.

[fullerton]

Here are the parts to make this all happen:

The 36" x 24" adhesive barrier:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Turbo Binkie (includes the aluminum wrap (enough for 2 or 3 cars with wire to secure and a small pipe wrap for after the turbo)
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

And the strap on shield for air tubes (I plan on getting this to wrap my CAI):
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

[fullerton]

So- today was an interesting day.

Started off by removing my rear seat and checking to see if I can tighten the top nut on the CO's. Unfortunately, with the x-brace's strut top mounts, I was unable to get the adjusting mechanism out of the way to seat a ratchet on it.

So I decided to see if I could isolate every possibility of noise in the back. So I removed the rear wheels and sound the weirdest thing: a stick was shoved in my wheel well in such a way as to be jammed between my body and my wheel. Now I know what that noise was last week. There's a nice mark on my wheel where the stick was rubbing, but no wear.

I then checked to see if my axle nut was tight on each side, and the driver's rear was loose 2-4°. Tightened that up, and in the process the 32mm socked slipped off the nut and my chin made a nice dent in the body. I then took apart the trunk liner to pop the dent out. It is almost 100% gone. Hopefully I have not ruined my rear axle(s). I also completely emptied the trunk and left the seat out.

Then I went for a ride and most of the noise was gone, except for the one that started it all and made me do all this to begin with. I figured out that it was my little strobing break light control box bouncing around in my trunk so I secured it down. I also wrapped electric tape around the two seats for the spare tire cover and poked holes in the tape. Now the cover fits snugly in the mounts and does not bounce around.

While I was out I picked up some garage door sealant and super heavy duty dual stick tape. I then removed the stock hood scoop sealer boot and then double-stuck the door sealer to the perimeter of my TMIC. It seals really well now, and 100% of the IC is getting air flow. One step closer to the coolest air charge possible.

Finally, I took off my rear sway bar mounts and re-greased them. I wanted to teflon them, but I could not find my roll. The original grease was completely gone and all the original paint is gone from the bar. This is with occasional greasing from the outside with spray lube.




CN: Check your axle nuts and make sure they are tight!

[fullerton]

Forgot to mention- I also installed my DS2500 pads in the rear and tightened my rear subframe lock bolts yesterday. I think I covered every possible source of clunking.





And- good news. My noise/clunks in the rear are gone! I had forgotten how nice it is to have a quiet car. Now I want to re-lube my fronts.


Also- I received my new CAI heat shield today. I will put it on ASAP and see what I gain from it.