[daemon]

Hi Brandon. The MAP sensor install is very easy. Just a matter of stripping a few wires and soldering on the new clip. I didn't cut off the stock clip because I didn't know if I was going to keep the new MAP sensor. I'll try and post a picture tonight. I've got a busy week, so I apologize now if it takes a little while for me to do.

As I'm sure you know, the new sensor does require a change to the ECU in order for it to read properly. So definitely don't go into boost after the change until the ECU changes have been made.

The welding is going wel. Unfortunately, I don't have enough time to practice every day. Or even every week now. I guess I was lucky that I was waiting a long time for car parts when I first got the welder. It gave me time to learn to weld. I feel competent enough now to do most anything I need to do. Not a pro by any means, but (now that I pay attention to welds I see everywhere) I have seen much worse than my welds on things that are sold. I still wouldn't trust myself on suspensions parts, but everything else I'll do. When I'm taking pictures later, I'll take a closer shot of the last aluminum weld I did.

[CenCali07STI]

Originally Posted by daemon

Hi Brandon. The MAP sensor install is very easy. Just a matter of stripping a few wires and soldering on the new clip. I didn't cut off the stock clip because I didn't know if I was going to keep the new MAP sensor. I'll try and post a picture tonight. I've got a busy week, so I apologize now if it takes a little while for me to do.

As I'm sure you know, the new sensor does require a change to the ECU in order for it to read properly. So definitely don't go into boost after the change until the ECU changes have been made.

The welding is going wel. Unfortunately, I don't have enough time to practice every day. Or even every week now. I guess I was lucky that I was waiting a long time for car parts when I first got the welder. It gave me time to learn to weld. I feel competent enough now to do most anything I need to do. Not a pro by any means, but (now that I pay attention to welds I see everywhere) I have seen much worse than my welds on things that are sold. I still wouldn't trust myself on suspensions parts, but everything else I'll do. When I'm taking pictures later, I'll take a closer shot of the last aluminum weld I did.

Yeah I was going to ask my tuner that but I was 99% there would be changes needed. I still have a few more parts I want to get before I install it and get retuned any way. I am going to build my own CAI. Figured I built a exhaust with pretty good success why not try an intake too. I am going to work with my tuner on it he has some ideas since he has tuned most any intake out there for a STI so he has a good idea of what does and does not work.

Dont worry about hurrying up I am have been working overtime for the last 3 months everyday. I have had one full weekend off and one sunday off in three months so I feel you on the no time part. Just got through working 8 12hr days in a row and still have about another 10 to go then overtime should stop.

Brandon

[daemon]

Cool. Might as well make the parts you can. Nothing like a true custom. If I haven't gotten you the info you need by the time you need it, shoot me a note and I'll get to it right then.

[daemon]

Well... I just got back from my first drive using Freon's speed density ECU code. My fueling is really, really off. But... It drove. And thanks to some help from the ECU's closed loop code, I succeeded in getting to the gas station and back.

[daemon]

I now have two different thermistors to play with. I disconnected the MAF sensor and then plugged one of the thermistors into the MAF connector to see what would happen. Simply amazing. I got a reading of 84F via the OBDII port for IAT. Then I plugged the MAF back in (removing the thermistor) and checked again. 86F for IAT.

Off by only two degrees and I haven't even scaled the sensor table yet. I am guessing it might be off by more as we move up and down the temperature range. But, golly that's ok cause we can change the scaling table. Piece of cake.

I still haven't quite decided how I'm going to install this, or even which of the two sensors I'll ultimately end up using. The first install will likely be a bit hackish.

I will keep y'all informed on the progress of course (when there is progress).

[daemon]

Some notes as I start tuning with the speed density patch...

I have my idle pretty stable now. I do have a bit of a fuel bounce as I let the clutch back out at low loads in some cases. I haven't tracked down the exact cause, and it isn't too bad. But it does cause an occassional, mild stutter. Probably a combination of my map needing some minor adjustments, tip-in values, closed-loop fueling, etc.

I've done some WOT runs at wastegate pressure only (so I could dial in a relatively constant boost without having to fidle with WDC tables). Plus, it is a nice pressure level, being at about half the positive pressure in the VE table's axis.

After only a few runs, I can say my AFR is certainly no less stable than before. I'd actually probably say it is MORE stable and predictable than when I had the MAF. One benefit of this, and possibly a major aid in the fueling stability, is that there was always a bit of an issue with the MAF sensor being "so far" away from the throttle body when using a FMIC. That is the generally assumed cause of the rich spike that occurs as boost peaks during a WOT run with a FMIC. With the MAP sensor being in the manifold, there is no similar delay.

[WolfPlayer]

Originally Posted by daemon

... there was always a bit of an issue with the MAF sensor being "so far" away from the throttle body when using a FMIC. That is the generally assumed cause of the rich spike that occurs as boost peaks during a WOT run with a FMIC. With the MAP sensor being in the manifold, there is no similar delay.

I hate you

t

[daemon]

Originally Posted by WolfPlayer

I hate you

Get in line.

Don't worry. I can't imagine it'll be much longer before the patch makes it into a 2005 ROM. Then you can hate yourself as well.

[blkdragon]

Originally Posted by daemon

I finally got tired of not being able to see wideband output while driving while trying to tune, so I added a gauge to my LM-1. I am eventually going to change to some other unit as the LM-1 is bulky and kind of a pain. But until I decide on what the new unit will be, this works.

I picked up Auto Meter console gauge pod to throw it in. Two problems.

First, I only have one gauge to put in it right now. Therefore I have a nice hole staring at me from the left side of the gauge cluster.

The second problem is, the fitment of the gauge pod is not A+. I'm not sure if that bothers me yet. Well... I know it bothers me. I'm just not sure if it bothers me enough to yank it and find a different mount for the gauge.

Is that a shift light in place of the factory boost gauge?

[daemon]

Originally Posted by blkdragon

Is that a shift light in place of the factory boost gauge?

It's a TurboXS KnockLite.

[modaddict]

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm......rich spike!

(ftl)

[blkdragon]

Originally Posted by daemon

It's a TurboXS KnockLite.

Sorry, I'm still a noobie, what does that do?

[daemon]

Originally Posted by blkdragon

Sorry, I'm still a noobie, what does that do?

It is attached to a knock sensor on the engine block. Theoretically, it will flash when detonation occurs.

Here's a link to the one I have. The page also has a bit more info on what they are, what they do, and why the can be useful.

Turbo XS KnockLite

[NightriderWRX]

amazing thread. Im speechless... please keep us updated on everything!

[daemon]

Originally Posted by NightriderWRX

amazing thread. Im speechless...

Thanks. Is it really that bad?