[daddysscp]

Originally Posted by TR11

just got the gauges in stalled and calibrated, they work perfect, but the gauges are set at different levels of contrast initially, can i individually adjust this to get them all the same?

If one is different it's most likey because one or more of them had the power plugged in and powered on before before power was plugged into another. At any rate...disconnect power from all of them, plug them ALL back in then start the car. Leave them unplugged for 60 seconds just to be sure. That should do it. That means you've got the 52mm. If you have an installed pic you want to share we'd all be happy

R.

[STiJunki]

I have an issue with my 52 mm gauge pack.... The daytime lighting doesn't work properly... to elaborate:

When I turn my car to the on position the gauges do their sweep and the numbers light up in "day mode". However, when I start the car, all three gauges go blank after a few seconds with only the needles being lit. If I turn on the parking lights the gauges do light back up but they're in " night mode " with dimmed back lighting.

Any clues on why this is happening? Only the boost gauge is hooked up and I have run all of the cables, I just need the BSPT to NPT adapter and a pipe tap for the EGT probe.

Thanks

[KiTsuNe]

how did you wire the gauges?

[daddysscp]

Originally Posted by STiJunki

I have an issue with my 52 mm gauge pack.... The daytime lighting doesn't work properly... to elaborate:

When I turn my car to the on position the gauges do their sweep and the numbers light up in "day mode". However, when I start the car, all three gauges go blank after a few seconds with only the needles being lit. If I turn on the parking lights the gauges do light back up but they're in " night mode " with dimmed back lighting.

Any clues on why this is happening? Only the boost gauge is hooked up and I have run all of the cables, I just need the BSPT to NPT adapter and a pipe tap for the EGT probe.

Thanks

Most likey related to the wiring. PM me or post where all your wires are going to.

R.

[STiJunki]

I think I figured it out... it was due to the brightness. I flipped my parking lights on and off to adjust the brightness and the gauges are now lit. I triple checked the wiring but if I run into problems again I will check again. I tapped into the radio and HVAC wires. I did not use the clock wiring.

My only other concern is the boost gauge flutter... is that normal? I couldn't find a T fitting that would fit the BPV tubes and the sensor hose... so I just coupled the T fitting to the hose coming out of the Blue T fitting ( I had stock boost gauge ). Then I capped one end of the metal T fitting provided with the kit. The boost gauge is accurate hitting about 18 PSI on peak ( stage 1 ) but it just flutters.

Finally, the only thing I dislike about the gauges is the sweep... even though I wired into the radio harness, the gauges still sweep a few seconds after the gauge cluster. I hope that is something that will be fixed for future versions. Otherwise these are GREAT gauges and I am happy I chose these over Defi.

I will try to post pics after the install is complete.

[daddysscp]

Originally Posted by STiJunki

I think I figured it out... it was due to the brightness. I flipped my parking lights on and off to adjust the brightness and the gauges are now lit. I triple checked the wiring but if I run into problems again I will check again. I tapped into the radio and HVAC wires. I did not use the clock wiring.

My only other concern is the boost gauge flutter... is that normal? I couldn't find a T fitting that would fit the BPV tubes and the sensor hose... so I just coupled the T fitting to the hose coming out of the Blue T fitting ( I had stock boost gauge ). Then I capped one end of the metal T fitting provided with the kit. The boost gauge is accurate hitting about 18 PSI on peak ( stage 1 ) but it just flutters.

Finally, the only thing I dislike about the gauges is the sweep... even though I wired into the radio harness, the gauges still sweep a few seconds after the gauge cluster. I hope that is something that will be fixed for future versions. Otherwise these are GREAT gauges and I am happy I chose these over Defi.

I will try to post pics after the install is complete.

I've got some T's coming in that are plug in play for the bov line. I've got 60 of them coming in, in about a week. Depending on where you T and size of the hose boost gauges(any) may exhibit some flutter. There is no one rule that works the same for everyone. When T off my intake manifold I get mad flutter, when I T off my bov its smooth...but that's not the same scenario for everone, go figure. I'm also looking into making some T connectors that have the orifice(restrictor) which some Ts already have built in for those few cases where the flutter is anywhere you T.

The sweep isn't identical as you note. I don't think the defi are "synched" either. We sell the gauges for use in many vehicles while the focus in the design was clearly slanted toward Subaru so it's similiar but not identical. One of the nicer features that isn't even noted in the manual is that when you power off the gauges rather than just doing a power off sweep, the gauges actually show session peak for 5 seconds then shut down. I little more thoughtful and useful than just a needle dance

R.

R.

[STiJunki]

Here's some pics of the almost installed gauges:

Shervsr20 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Some of the pictures suck... I just uploaded straight from my camera without checking.

Only EGT is left to hook up.

[TR11]

Originally Posted by daddysscp

If one is different it's most likey because one or more of them had the power plugged in and powered on before before power was plugged into another. At any rate...disconnect power from all of them, plug them ALL back in then start the car. Leave them unplugged for 60 seconds just to be sure. That should do it. That means you've got the 52mm. If you have an installed pic you want to share we'd all be happy

R.

can I just disconnect the negative from the batt terminal and leave overnight? Or to I have to rip up the pod and unplug from there? Where should i unplug from? I think they only have 3 contrast levels and off correct? Off-dim-brighter-brightest-off?

[daddysscp]

Originally Posted by TR11

can I just disconnect the negative from the batt terminal and leave overnight? Or to I have to rip up the pod and unplug from there? Where should i unplug from? I think they only have 3 contrast levels and off correct? Off-dim-brighter-brightest-off?

Yes, that will work.

R.

[RudyR1999]

Rich,

Invoice# 1946

I am having issues with the gauges I purchased. I had my performance shop (Draco Performance) install these gauges along with my turbo upgrade. They put my oil press, oil temp, and boost gauge in a 3 gauge clock pod. They hooked them up exactly like you did early in this post (4 cables from clock and 1 from ignition). Everything worked fine when they first started the car. When they pulled the car on the dyno the oil press gauge started blinking and everything went dead. The 100 amp main fuse on the car blew. They double checked all the wiring and everything is good. They left the gauges disconnected and replaced the 100amp fuse and the car runs like a champ. We would like your input on what is going on (maybe a faulty gauge). Since I don't know a fuse from a hole in the wall can you please contact the person working on my car at 704-892-7661 or Barry@Draco-Performance.com. If you need anything please feel free to contact me directly.

Thanks,
Rudy

[RudyR1999]

^ Bump for Maddad being back from vacation.

[boilermaker_cb]

I'll resurrect this thread for a bit:

Installed the boost gauge today w/o instructions. For all the wires except ignition I tapped into the radio harness. For the ignition wire rather than go to the fuse box I tapped into what I am pretty sure is the SRS airbag light in the clock display (2008). First time I started up everything came on fine and started reading A-OK.

Now, every start the gauge sweeps like normal, then sits at 6 o'clock and the light blinks (in perfect synchronization with the seat belt warning light I might add ) for about a minute, then reads fine. So I just get in, start driving, it blinks at me for a minute and then it's good to go.

I must have something hooked up wrong. Any ideas?

[daddysscp]

Originally Posted by boilermaker_cb

I'll resurrect this thread for a bit:

Installed the boost gauge today w/o instructions. For all the wires except ignition I tapped into the radio harness. For the ignition wire rather than go to the fuse box I tapped into what I am pretty sure is the SRS airbag light in the clock display (2008). First time I started up everything came on fine and started reading A-OK.

Now, every start the gauge sweeps like normal, then sits at 6 o'clock and the light blinks (in perfect synchronization with the seat belt warning light I might add ) for about a minute, then reads fine. So I just get in, start driving, it blinks at me for a minute and then it's good to go.

I must have something hooked up wrong. Any ideas?

You might havce a battery that is a bit on the low side. If your starting the car with the A/C already on(and with a low battery) this is the gauges way of telling you your battery is low. If as you say the gauge starts to work normal after a minute(or so) this might be the cause. I've see that before right after I almost killed by battery . I left my interior light on all night. I couldn't start my car the next day. I jumped it and got it going but my gauge like yours did the blink blink, until the battery had it's proper charge. My battery is actually on the edge of needing to be replaced. I can actually reproduce your situation in my car pretty much exact whenever I start the car with the AC turned on. If I start the car without the AC already on everything is fine(and I can turn the AC on immediatley after the startup), but if the AC is on I might have to wait upto a minute before the blinking goes away. I know my battery is on the edge, I'm just waiting to replace mine before the cold winter weather. It's not that the gauge needs "more" power..the senders only need 9v. It's just one of the many built in startup diagnostics the gauge does(on itself and the battery).

R.

[boilermaker_cb]

Originally Posted by daddysscp

You might havce a battery that is a bit on the low side. If your starting the car with the A/C already on(and with a low battery) this is the gauges way of telling you your battery is low. If as you say the gauge starts to work normal after a minute(or so) this might be the cause. I've see that before right after I almost killed by battery . I left my interior light on all night. I couldn't start my car the next day. I jumped it and got it going but my gauge like yours did the blink blink, until the battery had it's proper charge. My battery is actually on the edge of needing to be replaced. I can actually reproduce your situation in my car pretty much exact whenever I start the car with the AC turned on. If I start the car without the AC already on everything is fine(and I can turn the AC on immediatley after the startup), but if the AC is on I might have to wait upto a minute before the blinking goes away. I know my battery is on the edge, I'm just waiting to replace mine before the cold winter weather. It's not that the gauge needs "more" power..the senders only need 9v. It's just one of the many built in startup diagnostics the gauge does(on itself and the battery).

R.

That makes perfect sense. When I was poking around for the correct wires I found the airbag wire and noticed that yes it did keep voltage between accessory, ignition and crank.. but the voltage fluttered around 9V but I figured I would try it. I bet if I start the car w/o the A/C on it stays above 9V, but with it on will dip below 9V. I'll poke around some more this afternoon for a proper 12V ignition, I was just trying to avoid going to the fuse box.

[07 Flt4bxr]

is i normal for the gauges not to to work for a while wen its hot (high 90's). they beep and sweep un till it cools dow inside the car. then today they sat at 6 o'clockn like said above, after i was driving. i drove about 20 miles and turned off the car then started it back up and they sat at 6 blinking after normal sweep start up. did the same thing with or with out the a/c and this is random. they have been workin great