[boxer_four]

Originally Posted by daddysscp

- When wiring the gauges, its important for the Orange wire to be connected to a switched 12v source that has power when the car is in Accessory BUT DOES NOT LOOSE POWER WHEN starting the car. It SHOULD loose power when the car is off though so don't put it to a fuse that always has 12v or direct to the battery.

We've got a complete install guide coming but it won't be done till next weekend.

Rich

Can you give an example of a circuit that fits this criteria in an STi?

[daddysscp]

Originally Posted by boxer_four

Can you give an example of a circuit that fits this criteria in an STi?

While I'm not sure if its the best spot, I put my orange wire to my ignition fuse in back of the coin tray. My car is an 02 WRX, not sure if things are different for the later year STi's but the back of the coin try should have a legand labeling each. And remember the first time you go to power the gauge on do not start the car, put it into Accessory, and your boost guage should show in the area of 0 psi +/- slightly is OK because your going to preform a one time calibration that will dial it in. Once you do the calibration once, you won't have to due it again. Next time you put the car in to ACC the boost gauge pointer will be at 6 o'clock rather than 9.

Rich

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by daddysscp

While I'm not sure if its the best spot, I put my orange wire to my ignition fuse in back of the coin tray. My car is an 02 WRX, not sure if things are different for the later year STi's but the back of the coin try should have a legand labeling each. And remember the first time you go to power the gauge on do not start the car, put it into Accessory, and your boost guage should show in the area of 0 psi +/- slightly is OK because your going to preform a one time calibration that will dial it in. Once you do the calibration once, you won't have to due it again. Next time you put the car in to ACC the boost gauge pointer will be at 6 o'clock rather than 9.

Rich

Are yo9u sure you mean ACC, and not ON? I ask because when I had the orange hooked up to the constant 12v source, the guage would start when in ACC. But when the orange was hooked into the ignition circuit, the guage would not power on when in ACC, only ON.

[boxtwo]

Sounds excellent! Disregard my last PM since you covered the questions here!

Originally Posted by daddysscp

1) Universal base 60mm mounts are included wiht each gauge.
2) Yes - although you'll have to slice into existing wires for power,ect.
3) The AF gauge isn't done yet, but it will come with an 02 sensor so you can install in an aux 02 bung you might already have in your DP. The AF gauge is still in development. We've looked at doing the AF as a wideband based on the popular Bosch Probe but we're also looking at ways of getting better resolution out of the factory probe. I'm not the electronics guru so I can't elaborate on that. I'll have more info on the AF gauge in a week or so. It will be an analog guage though. It will not be the typical colored lights type of gauge. It will be an analog sweep gauge that has the same appearance as the others. You'll be able to set two user adjustable warnings for what you feel is rich or lean for your car.

Rich

[boxer_four]

Is is really required for the gauges to have power while the key is @ ACC? I would much rather they only come on while the key is @ the "ON" position.

The rest of the OEM cluster only turns on @ ON.

[lucidmedia]

went to check these out and the site is borked... sql errors...

[daddysscp]

boxer_four - It's required at a miminum so you can run a proper calibration dailing in the boost and oil pressure gauges. You have to be able to due that without the car fully started. When in ACC the gauge needles will all just sit at 6 oclock (except for the boost gauge the very first time you turn to ACC..the first time it will be on or about 0 psi, and will always be on 0 psi after the calibration...after that it will sit at 6 o'clock with the rest of them). Every electronic gauge I have seen operation in a similiar fasion(lit up when in ACC).

lucidmedia - website went over it's file limit and caused some database errors. It's up and running again now.

R.

[daddysscp]

Serveral folks are wondering "where do I get an ON wire that does not loose connection when the vehicle is started" as reference in the Ultra manual. You can get that from the ignition fuse or any other spot that references the "IGN"ition. I'm not an install wizard so what I outline is for general reference. It's how I have my gauges installed but an installer I'm sure would be using better methods. Tapping the fusebox is definately not something real installers due so I offer this up fyi but recommend you enroll a friend who is a good electronic installer or get your gauges professionally installed to ensure long term reliability

Here is my picture story (Kudos to Draco-REX for his idea on using the terminal strip. It works well with the thin gauge wire from the wire harness)

My first step was to snake some wire from the clock pod down through the dash. I took 4 strands of 16 gauge wire(you might have 5, one extra for Ground, but I already had a ground wire run). Wrapping some tape at the start of the wire and pushing them through together is a time saver. Having an electricians snake can come in handy as well, although it was quite easy without it since the wire was quite stiff.

I used masking tape and labeled each end for what I would be using it for and for the matching colored wire it would ultimately be supporting.

Labing the ends that would be right under the clock pod.

Crimped some connectors on the ends and attached to a 6 pot terminal strip from Home Depot(about $6)

Wires from the daisy-chain cable attached to the oppside sides of the terminal. You might be running multiple cables. One from each gauge. It's OK to combine more than one. If you bought 3 gauges a single daisy-chain cable would have also been provided so you can have one wire that supports all 3 gauges in the pod. The yellow wire on the terminal is going straight to the battery negative terminal to ensure we have a very good ground. Lots of issues are due to poor grounding. If yoru unsure just run your wire to the battery(-) terminal. Applied a velcro strip to secure it but be able to remove it later if need be

All wires except for grounding were run to the fusebox. Note: my car is a 2002 WRX so your fuses are most likey different from this layout. Look to the back side of your coin/ash try for a legand on which fuse is which, but look for the ones I note here. Again, there are probably some better ways to sesure pull appropriate power for each wire, but in a pinch this will work

[scutzi128]

Order in can't wait till I get them. Also did you guys get in the piece needed to install the oil pressure sensor?

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by scutzi128

Order in can't wait till I get them. Also did you guys get in the piece needed to install the oil pressure sensor?

I have the Oil pressure gauge. It seems to have everything needed. What piece are you referring to?

[daddysscp]

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

I have the Oil pressure gauge. It seems to have everything needed. What piece are you referring to?

He's referring to a galley plug we have that is already tapped for 1/8" NPT that the sensor uses. Having that galley plug is all you need for a simple install other than tools of course. I crows foot wrench and allen socket adapter(for removing the factory galley plug) come on quite handy. I've been dropping those adapters in the oil pressure boxes as a special added bonus for all the early adopters but I ran out of them last week. I've been shipping orders without them for the past 4-5 days. If anyone didn't get one and would like one, just ping me with your order# and I'll send out one. I'll have them back in on Friday...50 of them, so that should cover anyone that needs one . I'll be including them at no charge through the end of the month.

Rich

[scutzi128]

Cool should we just ask you on Friday for them then? Or will you just ship them automatically to everyone who did not get one? Thanks and I can't wait.

[Draco-REX]

Got the new gauge in and it's working fine. I'll update my posts with the change in wiring.

[diabloadsit]

Originally Posted by daddysscp

IUSTi - as mentioned the gauges look more OEM than any others with a font that matches the factory cluster. There is a startup and shutdown sequence. The startup is similiar with a single needle sweep, not 100% identical, then again no one(not even the Defi) are 100% synched with the factory needle sweep. It will be obvious that these look more "stock" though, as if it was something Subaru should be able to offer you.

diabloadsit - there is a pre-order GB going on right now that will run through mid November. Any 3 gauges runs $449.95, roughly 33% off the regular prices once the GB is done.

nemisisSTi - it was a minimum install just to get the camera shot(and some testing), normally that wire would go from the underside of the pod down through the dash. It was the boost gauge sending unit wire.

all4bspinnin - yes, these babies match the STi cluster color exact.

I'm not subscribed to this thread so sorry for late replies. On a parting note...these guages finally shipped from our factory and we will be shipping them to customes by mid week this week.

R.

Is the group buy still on? If it is I would like to see about getting on the list for. A Boost gauge, EGT gauge, and water temp gauge.

[daddysscp]

The GB pricing will run at least to the end of the month. We've had so many problems in the past week with our website being down more than it has been up I know several people were trying to place orders but couldn't. We're down to 10 boost gauges left and since every 3 gauge bundle pretty much has a boost gauge I'll probably just let the GB pricing run until I run out of boost gauges. Right now we have boost, egt, oil pressure and oil temp. The AF, Fuel Pressure and Water temp won't make it here until January/Feb.

Rich