[tazer]

Most of this information was followed:
DIY 720cc JECS Injector Install - IWSTI.com: Subaru WRX STI Forums

and then put together for this DIY since there are some more specifics when working with the Deatschwerks injectors on a 2006 STI with a FMIC. YMMV and as with all DIY's, you do this at your own risk. I will not be responsible for any damage you incur doing this yourself. (but seriously, it really wasn't 'that' hard.)

Tools you need:
- 1/4" Ratchet
- 1/4" 6" extension
- 1/4" U-Joint/Wobble adapter
- 10mm Socket
- 12mm Socket
- 12mm open/box wrench
- 12mm ratcheting box wrench
- T-25 Torx Bit or driver
- side/wire cutters (for removing zip-ties)
- long nose pliers (for opening hose clamps)
- wood handled rubber mallet (round handle)

Optional (nice to haves)
- Magnetic Tray (to keep from losing bolts/screws/etc)
- "Antenna" Magnet (to get 'dropped' bolts/screws/etc)
- rags for cleaning up spilled anti-freeze

Provided by Deatschwerks:
- Tube of SuperGrease

1. Let the car sit overnight or relieve the fuel pressure by unplugging the fuel pump (green plug in upper right area of passenger footwell). (NOTE: I just let my car sit overnight)

2. Start on the driver's side (it's easier).

a) Remove negative battery terminal.

b) Remove the two 12mm bolts holding in the plastic bracket to the intake manifold and clip the two zip ties keeping the harness in the plastic bracket.

c) Now remove the plastic bracket (it will take a patient/creative rotation to get it out from the hoses/harnesses) and you'll be able to clearly access the torx screws holding down the little bracket that holds down the injectors.

1.You may also want to unplug the blue connector and the Crankcase breather hose (regular clamp, not the crimped one) to provide maximum access to the injectors.

d) Unplug the injector, remove the torx screw (Proper size Torx Bit: T-25), swing the bracket up and out of the way, and pull the injector out. You will need a small screwdriver with a sharper tip to pop the injector up. Just be careful not to damage the injector seat or the injector housing / Rubber O-ring

3. Now, get one of your newly purchased Deatschwerks injectors. Open the tube of Super Grease (should be provided) and generously lube the lower O-Ring, and moderately-sparingly lube the upper O-Ring. ONLY LUBE the O-RINGs, try not to get lube on the injector screen or filters

4. Gently insert the Deatschwerks injector. You will want it to sit on the upper O-Ring, flush to the injector port. Then use the bottom of rubber mallet wooden handle to push the injector in until it seats. There will be a noticeable but gentle "pop" not a sound but a "feel" once the injector seats. If there is a fair amount of gas left in the injector port, it may even just slip in ... no "pop" feeling.

5. Once you have the injector(s) seated, just reverse the steps in #2


6. On the passenger side,

a) Start by removing your intake. I have a short ram, so i just removed the intake after 'accordion section'. This will expose the front passenger-side injector.

b) The coolant tank is next. Unbolt it and just remove it, the lower hose on the intake manifold side makes it difficult to move out of the way. You will need to remove (2) 12mm bolts & (1) 12mm nut and then remove all attached hoses

c) Under the coolant tank, there are 2 gold brackets holding a harness and/or hose in place. Remove the bolts in the two gold brackets ((3) 10mm bolts) clip the zip tie, and then remove the black bracket that the gold brackets were bolted to ((2) 12mm bolts, one in the middle of the intake manfold runners, one on the firewall side of the intake manifold). You will have to carefully move the hoses/harness gold brackets towards the passenger wheel well (maybe even expand (read: bend) the bracket a bit to get the black bracket out of the way. This will make it so you can move around the hoses/harness to easily access the injectors.

1.You may also want to unplug the blue connector to provide maximum access to the injectors.

d) Unplug the injector, remove the torx screw (Proper size Torx Bit: T-25), swing the bracket up and out of the way, and pull the injector out. You will need a small screwdriver with a sharper tip to pop the injector up. Just be careful not to damage the injector seat or the injector housing / Rubber O-ring

7. Now, get one of your newly purchased Deatschwerks injectors. Open the tube of Super Grease (should be provided) and generously lube the lower O-Ring, and moderately-sparingly lube the upper O-Ring. ONLY LUBE the O-RINGs, try not to get lube on the injector screen or filters

8. Gently insert the Deatschwerks injector. You will want it to sit on the upper O-Ring, flush to the injector port. Then use the bottom of rubber mallet wooden handle to push the injector in until it seats. There will be a noticeable but gentle "pop" not a sound but a "feel" once the injector seats. If there is a fair amount of gas left in the injector port, it may even just slip in ... no "pop" feeling.

9. Once you have the injector(s) seated, just reverse the steps in #6

10. Reattach the negative Battery Terminal

11. DON'T START YOUR CAR YET

a) Get in your car and turn your ignition to the "ON" position,... listen for the fuel pump. (If you have a WALBRO, you WILL be able to hear it)

b) go inspect your work and ensure there is no leaking gas from any of the injectors. you may not be able to smell it right away, so get a flashlight and LOOK for leaks/wetness around the injector ports

12. If you don't detect any fuel leaks, you will need to adjust your fuel tuning to scale for your newly installed upgraded injectors. I have a COBB AP and was about to get tuned on a dyno by PDX so I just asked for temporary map to get my car to the dyno. I do not have the Street Tuner values, so please don't ask me for them.

a) once I installed the real-time map from PDX for the 740s, the car started right up and idled nicely. it even worked well enough to get me to the dyno (~10 miles away)

Notes:
1) Make sure not to strip the torx bolts. Replacements are $2.50 a pop so make sure you're using T-25 Torx Driver and TAKE YOUR TIME
2) Having a 2nd person there to help you hold injector brackets out of the way is a HUGE help as well.

[snorky]

nice write up. gonna add any pics?

[tazer]

wasn't planning on it as the other thread was more than enough for me to get started.. I just wanted to add another thread for the deatschwerks / 06 STI specific installation...

There were some slightly confusing items in the reference thread, and it never really consolidated "what tools" you'd need. that's what I was attempting to do.

I'll see what I can do about getting some pix for the thread.

[DeatschWerks.com]

Nice write up. Better than we could have done it

[tazer]

glad you guys approve. I really appreciate the customer service and speed of delivery.
end result.. 309AWHP and 360TQ (stock VF-39 on 92oct pump gas (10% Ethanol)) on a DynoJet as tuned by Jarrad from PDX..

see my sig for mods, but Jarrad specifically stated that the installation of your guys' injectors made for much lower injector duty cycles and a more reliable tune. Can't wait 'til I go bigger (planning on a TD06 20G most likely) to see what I can really do with your fuel injectors.

Thanks again!

[howboutthemapplz]

from the dead, i know.
thanks for the write up!

any additional information i should know about installed Deatsch Werks 740cc on a 2005 STi? Thanks in advance!

[tazer]

nothing,... just make sure you get a e-tune from PDX (or other reliable tuner) to scale the injectors, and then get a pro-tune a.s.a.p

I'm still running mine, on my VF39 (yes stock turbo still) tune by Jarrad and I STILL love it.

[Hitman83]

Nice write-up. How much time should I budget for when i do mine?

[howboutthemapplz]

ive heard a good few hours...

is it a problem if i run a stg 2 map and drive 2 hours to the tuning shop? its mostly highway (and ill stay out of boost.)

my mods are...
Engine/Power:
Cobb AP v2
Gospeed FMIC
Cobb catless TBE
Megan Racing header
Forge 100% recirculating BPV
Walbro 255
Deatsch Werks 740cc fuel injectors
1 step colder NGK plugs
Hallman manual Boost Controller
Gimmick Motorsports turbo inlet & after MAF tube
APS 65mm
DIY PNP throttle body and intercooler Y-pipe
Mobile 1 oil and filter
Motul gear trans and rear differential fluid
2 Greddy oil catch cans

[RONIN]

is it a problem if i run a stg 2 map and drive 2 hours to the tuning shop? its mostly highway (and ill stay out of boost.)...


Either get a limp map from your tuner (Cobb ap only, afaik)
or AAA Gold membership (100 miles for free with a gold membership) and have it flat bedded.

Joe