[KarlSTI]

How to install RaceComp Engineering Tarmac 2 Coilovers with Whiteline Front Camber Plates and Cusco Rear Camber Plates.

Today we'll be installing the following items:

RCE T2's:



Whiteline Front Camber Plates:



Cusco Rear Camber Plates:



This install took me most of a day but could be quicker with help from friends that have done coilover installs before.

Main Tools:

Jack
Jackstands
Impact Driver (I used a cordless)
12 mm deep socket
13 mm socket
14 mm deep socket
19 mm deep socket
19 mm closed end/open end wrench
22 mm socket for nut on top of Cusco plates
24 mm socket for nut on top of Whiteline plates
Breaker bar (I used an old motorcycle fork tube )
extensions
rachets
White grease
Anti Sieze
5 mm Allen Head Wrench (Hex Key)
6mm Allen Head Wrench (Hex Key)
Strap Wrench
Flat blade Screw Driver

Preadjust the T2's as described in the RCE instructions for daily driver using the supplied allen head wrenches.

Making the adjustments:



Settings from RCE:

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/sekellic/pictures/rce%20t2%20settings%20v2.0.doc


Note that the coilovers have stickers indicating which side of the car they go on. The ones with the external reservoir go to the front.

While your hands are still clean, remove the backseat as shown here:
http://www.hspn.tv/?videoid=68&catid=1

Go ahead and remove the 14 mm bolt holding the seat belt dealy at this time to get it out of the way. Here's the bolt:


Installing the camber plates on the coilovers:

Note: For best results get someone to help you!

Front Coilovers:

To prevent "coil bind" between the helper spring (top spring) and the main spring (lower) be sure to apply a layer of grease on top and bottom of the helper spring. In fact grease all contact points of the helper and main spring before assembly!

Determine which plate is for the right & left. Pictures in this thread may help. Some of the discussion on Nasioc has recommended applying grease between the metal surfaces of the Whiteline Camber Plate. To do this simply take the plates apart by removing the adjuster allen head screws and one of the 13mm nuts. Apply grease and put plates back together.

As you can see when you flip it over one of the mounting bolts (top right) goes thru both the gold and the black plates and must be removed to get grease between them.

I used left over grease from a prior Whiteline Sway Bar install....starts to get a little messy as you can see but you'll wipe up all the excess grease later.....some day....

Looks like I got some nasty grit mixed into the grease on this one....DOH!

OK, now that you have the plates together you need to install them on the coilovers.
First use the impact driver to remove the nut and washer on the top of the coilover. Discard the supplied nut and washer and replace it with the whileline supplied spacer like this:

Place the camber plate on top and pushdown to compress the spring. Have your partner start threading the Whiteline supplied nut on top while you keep it compressed. Once it is threaded you need to snug it up with the impact wrench. Then wrap a strap wrench around the coilover shaft (twice is recommended) and hold it tight while you tighten the top nut a bit more with the impact driver. This can be the toughest part of the install!! Definitely takes 2 people!

Rear Coilovers:
Determine which plate is for the right & left. Pictures in this thread may help. Remove the nut and washer from the tops of the coilovers as before. RCE supplied a different spring perch with instructions to replace the one supplied by KW. Replace the spring perch as directed and place the small Cusco supplied spacer on top of the spring perch. Place Cusco Camber Plate on top of the spacer and press down to compress the spring while your partner threads the Cusco supplied nut to the top of the coilover. Using the pipe strap as before tighten the nut with the impact driver.


Loosen lugnuts of all 4 wheels and place car on jackstands. Remove wheels.

[KarlSTI]

Remove and replace front coilovers:
With the 12 mm socket remove the 2 bolts holding the ABS and the brake line to the stock strut. A cordless impact driver works great here. Save these bolts as they will be used on the new coilover.

Using the 19 mm socket, breaker bar, and the 19 mm closed end wrench, remove the strut bolts. A cordless impact driver works great here.

Open the hood and using the 12 mm socket remove each of the 3 top strut mounting nuts BE CAREFULL TO NOT DROP THE STRUT. IT CAN DAMAGE YOUR AXLE BOOT!! So, be sure to grab the strut with one hand as you remove the last nut from the top mount. Carefully remove the strut.

Old strut out, new strut ready to go (well not quite....camber plate not installed in this pic).


Install new T2's with Whiteline Camber Plates. Note that this will use the same bolts on the strut. The camber plate mount will use the supplied 13 mm nuts. Note that the stock 12mm nuts can be used (on top of the camber plate 13 mm nuts) if you have the optional security system on the front right side.

Orientation of front left:


Maximize negative camber by turning the stock eccentric strut bolt in the top hole and then tighten both bolts to spec torque.

NOTE: The front right strut the camber bolt must be reversed! This is a manufacturing issue with KW that RCE is trying to change. I spoke with Myles about it and he assured me that running the camber bolt in the other direction is fine. New NOTE: 5/15/08 - My fronts were installed on the wrong side so it is likely that the front LEFT strut camber bolt goes the wrong direction....

Here's the bolt you turn to maximize negative camber. Be sure the bottom one isn't tight yet when you make this adjustment.

NOTE: 5/15/08 - The picture shows that I installed the fronts on the wrong side!! My fronts were mislabeled!! The reservoir on the T2's goes to the back!! This will make the brake line less contorted than what I show here!!


Reattach the ABS and the brake line. My brake line looked like this when done but probably not right since I had to zip tie the brake line to the coilover afterwards to get clear it when turning. Suggestions please and I'll fix it.


ABS attaches here:

[KarlSTI]

Remove and replace rear coilovers:
With the flat blade screw driver pop the retaining plate off that holds the brake line to the stock strut. Save as it will be used on the new coilover.

Using the 19 mm socket, breaker bar, and the 19 mm closed end wrench, remove the strut bolts.

Inside the back of the car use the 12 mm socket remove each of the 3 top strut mounting nuts BE CAREFULL TO NOT DROP THE STRUT. IT CAN DAMAGE YOUR AXLE BOOT!! So, be sure to grab the strut with one hand as you remove the last nut from the top mount. Carefully remove the strut.

I noticed that when I installed my first rear coilover that 2 of the adjustment allen heads on the camber plate were difficult to get at for full negative. So I relocated all 4 allen head adjusters one hole outward so that the could be accessed at full negative. This is easier to do before you install them....trust me.

Install new rear T2's with Cusco Camber Plates:

Maximize positive camber by moving the strut body to allow the mounting bolts (not yet tightened) to slide in the slotted holes on the rear T2. Maximize the positive camber here but then maximize the negative camber at the Cusco camber plates. Torque the 19mm bolts to 130-140 so that the will hold the camber at the slots. Don't want these to slip!!

To maximize the negative camber simply push the top of the coilover inward toward the center of the car before tightening the allen head adjusters.

Tighten the 3 12 mm nuts on top of the coilovers. Don't replace the cover plate....the plate prevents you from making adjustments easily.....and you have not gotten it aligned yet!!



Weird body positions to work on this....



Rear coilover looking up from the bottom toward the Cusco camber plate:

[KarlSTI]

When done go back and check:

• That all the 19 mm strut bolts are tight (NOTE: Myles at RCE says 130 to 140 ft/lb to make sure the bolts on the slotted holes on the rear don't slip!!)
• That the "grub screws" are tight (small set screw on the coilovers). There are 2 collars on each rear coilover with a grub screw each.
• That camber is set where you think you want it
• Top mounting screws are tight
• Reattached alarm system if you have one. Use the stock strut mount nuts for this.

Then,

• Mount tires
• Make sure all tools are away from the car
• Jack car up and remove stands and lower car to the ground
• Check clearances particularly turn the front wheels lock to lock and reach behind them to make sure the brake line is not rubbing

Finally,

• Do a test drive and come back and tighten up anything that may be loose
• Measure distance between center of front hubs and edge of fender...14" front, 13.5" rear. Adjust as needed.

The rear measured 14" so I can drop another 1/2". I'll need to recheck though on a flat surface.

To adjust ride hight: The collars go down to drop the car, the collars go up to raise it. On the back there are 2 alan head grub screws. Loosen the lower lock collar and back it off of the upper adjustment collar.



You can see the grub screw on the top collar in this pic. This setting gave me 13.5" in the back.


13.5" in the rear....just right.




The front measured 14". No change needed.

[KarlSTI]

Lastly, schedule an alignment!!

[AndrewSS]

sexy...

I dont know, but I think your whiteline plates need to be swapped side to side...

'

So yeah, I think you want that plate to angle the other direction for positive caster, not positive caster... do you know what I am saying? Either way you are gonna get the same max camber.... I believe why would you ever want to reduce caster. Anyway looks like swapping the fronts side to side orientation would be better...

But IDK for sure... could be that the way they are now is the only way to get enough camber being too outside of the center of the hole in the tower.... anyway, I am not sure... just wondering.

-Andrew

[KarlSTI]

Dang, I hope I installed them right...

Just checked the photo in the instructions...looks right.

Also from Nasioc:

[H4N]

Nice stuff... i got mine installed on Friday, i love them so far haha

[thunderbird]

Wow, How timely! I just bought a set of these and expect delivery this week. Thanks, Great write-up!!!!

[KarlSTI]

Originally Posted by thunderbird

Wow, How timely! I just bought a set of these and expect delivery this week. Thanks, Great write-up!!!!

Thanks!

Everyone, if you've done this install and have info I've left out let me know and I'll update this.

I think a picture of how to mount the plates to the coilovers would be a nice addition...

[RaceComp Engineering]

Yes, your WL plates are oriented correctly. Looks odd, but that's the way it's supposed to be.

Good write-up!

Our more general assembly instructions are here:
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/sekellic...20RCE%20T2.doc

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/sekellic...20PART%202.doc

One thing to note....when not using Whiteline camber plates, you MUST reuse the OEM silver conical washer up front. Whiteline provides their own washer, but otherwise, reuse that OEM silver conical washer! Pics of that piece are in our instructions, as well as the part number if you don't feel like disassembling your stock struts and just want to order them from your local Subaru dealer.

- Andrew

[AndrewSS]

BTW... 14" and 13.5" ride height isnt going to work with 275's on your wheels.... you will get rear rubbing on a bumpy course. I believe you will need to raise the rear to 14.25 ish (depending on rear camber).

[H4N]

Originally Posted by RaceComp Engineering

Yes, your WL plates are oriented correctly. Looks odd, but that's the way it's supposed to be.

Good write-up!

Our more general assembly instructions are here:
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/sekellic...20RCE%20T2.doc

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/sekellic...20PART%202.doc

One thing to note....when not using Whiteline camber plates, you MUST reuse the OEM silver conical washer up front. Whiteline provides their own washer, but otherwise, reuse that OEM silver conical washer! Pics of that piece are in our instructions, as well as the part number if you don't feel like disassembling
your stock struts and just want to order them from your local Subaru dealer.

- Andrew

Uh... I don't know if the shop installed those washers what happens to the camber plates if not installed? Also is there a way to check if they were installed w/o taking it apart?

[KarlSTI]

Originally Posted by AndrewSS

BTW... 14" and 13.5" ride height isnt going to work with 275's on your wheels.... you will get rear rubbing on a bumpy course. I believe you will need to raise the rear to 14.25 ish (depending on rear camber).

Ha ha...hopefully I can wait a little longer than you did before subcoming to the 275 R-Crack.

[KarlSTI]

Originally Posted by RaceComp Engineering

Yes, your WL plates are oriented correctly. Looks odd, but that's the way it's supposed to be.

Good write-up!

Our more general assembly instructions are here:
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/sekellic...20RCE%20T2.doc

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/sekellic...20PART%202.doc

One thing to note....when not using Whiteline camber plates, you MUST reuse the OEM silver conical washer up front. Whiteline provides their own washer, but otherwise, reuse that OEM silver conical washer! Pics of that piece are in our instructions, as well as the part number if you don't feel like disassembling your stock struts and just want to order them from your local Subaru dealer.

- Andrew

OK, what about on the Cuscos? I didn't use the OEM conical washer. I did use the spacer Cusco provided between the RCE supplied spring perch and the Cusco plate. This RCE spring perch was taller than the KW supplied perch which made it more difficult getting much thread depth on the Cusco top nut. Any thoughts here?

I think it would be good to know how far down the center of the Cusco top nut is acceptable before touching the top of the strut.