[KarlSTI]

First off here is a previous link to how to install sway bars:

Worx Tuning Sway Bar Install How-To

This "how to" is for installing a Whiteline 24mm Rear Sway Bar with Kartboy Endlinks on an '05 STi.

What you will be installing:







First, chock the front wheels for safety:


Then, jack up the rear by the diff:




Use Jack Stands for added safety:


Slide your butt under to check things out.... :


Stock endlink back right: Remove the link from the chasis but leave the link on the sway bar since they're both coming out . 12 mm socket here...Repeat for the left side:

[KarlSTI]

The 12 mm nut and bolt on the rear right mount are next to the canister thingy. Probably best to drop the canister out of the way as the initial link shows. It is possible to leave it in place though....



The 12mm bolt is tougher because of the hose that goes to the canister....I ended up removing the hose to get to it.


The left side is easier. Be careful not to drop the mounts or the bar on your head.

Snake the existing bar over the axelback/fart can from left to right. Once out compare it to the stocker:



At this point I went ahead and put the Kartboy Endlinks on in basically the same configuration as the stock endlinks which were still on the existing sway bar. The Whiteline sway bar comes with 3 settings: soft, medium, and hard. I chose the medium setting.
The only difference really is there are thin and thick washers that come with the Kartboy endlinks and a description in the whiteline directions for aftermarket endlinks with small and large washers. DO NOT TIGHTEN ANYTHING DOWN YET!!

Whiteline supplies white grease to apply to the new bushings (Yellow). I put it on inside the bushings before putting them on the new bar in the same location as the stocker. Also apply grease to the bushing on the outside where it comes in contact with the mounts. I reused the stock mounts in this install. Also, notice that there is a an arrow on the outside of the mounts showing which direction they should be positioned...arrows should point to the front of the car.

Attach the Kartboy Endlinks (which you have already attached to the new swaybar) to the chassis with the Kartboy supplied bolts.

[KarlSTI]

Once the bar is back in with bolts and nuts loose. Jack the car up and remove the jackstands. The final tightening must be done with the suspension loaded. Place car ramps under both rear wheels and lower the back end until the rear is completely sitting on the car ramps. For extra safety, keep the jack positioned on the diff but with no load.

Now tighten the endlinks and mounts. I used two rachets with 17mm sockets to tighten the Kartboy endlinks. Be careful not to scratch the inside of your wheel (if you care) with rachet holding the bolt. It may be better to hold it with a closed end 17mm wrench.

Be sure to tighten up the mounts with the 12 mm socket & wrench (whichever works best...I used a bit of both).

Don't forget to reattach the hose on the cannister.

Jack the car up off of the ramps, remove ramps and lower the rear to the ground.

Left rear KB endlink:




Done.

[izzy]

good writeup, very thorough, however i prefer using ramps as i feel safer and is less cluttered while working under the car.

[drewzter]

Originally Posted by izzy

good writeup, very thorough, however i prefer using ramps as i feel safer and is less cluttered while working under the car.

+1 for ramps, Now do the FSB. It is more fun to install and
to drive.

[KarlSTI]

Originally Posted by drewzter

+1, Now do the FSB. It is more fun to install and
to drive.

Actually the FSB went on right after I got the car. I think most of us know the FSB has a much bigger performance impact than the RSB.

Also, I did use ramps to load the wheels to tighten the bolts but didn't get pictures of it. I still prefer jack stands plus jack for safety.

[drewzter]

Originally Posted by KarlSTI

Actually the FSB went on right after I got the car. I think most of us know the FSB has a much bigger performance impact than the RSB.

Also, I did use ramps to load the wheels to tighten the bolts but didn't get pictures of it. I still prefer jack stands plus jack for safety.

Cool. My bad for not reading the sig. I have the FWB.

[Under_control]

I felt comfortable about this install going into the project, but I've hit a wall. Hopefully someone can shed some light on my problem. I plan on using the stock rear endlinks and mounts with a 24 mm Whiteline bar. My problem is that all four 14mm endlink nuts are spinning with the bolt. I soaked with PB Blaster. Even if I could vise-grip the bolt, how would I tighten it after the switch? I removed the fronts with ease. I see no indication of a bolt head or place to hold the bolt to keep it from spinning. Any ideas would be appreciated.

[05_GD7]

check the ends of the studs in the stock endlink - you can use an allen wrench in there to hold it while you loosen/tighten the bolts.

[96accord]

Here are pictures of my front... it's making a clunking noise:

[nandanrp]

^^^My front KB endlinks came with 1/4" metal spacers. We positioned the spacers to keep the endlinks from hitting the bar. That's the only thing I can think of...

Originally Posted by Under_control

I felt comfortable about this install going into the project, but I've hit a wall. Hopefully someone can shed some light on my problem. I plan on using the stock rear endlinks and mounts with a 24 mm Whiteline bar. My problem is that all four 14mm endlink nuts are spinning with the bolt. I soaked with PB Blaster. Even if I could vise-grip the bolt, how would I tighten it after the switch? I removed the fronts with ease. I see no indication of a bolt head or place to hold the bolt to keep it from spinning. Any ideas would be appreciated.

My rear endlinks (MY 05) required me to use an open end around part of the endlink to keep it from spinnging, while using a ratchet on the actual nut. If you look closely you'll see a very narrow but flat portion on the endlink that you can put an open end on.

Originally Posted by 05_GD7

check the ends of the studs in the stock endlink - you can use an allen wrench in there to hold it while you loosen/tighten the bolts.

My fronts required an allen key and ratchet, while the rear required an open end and ratchet.

[96accord]

Originally Posted by nandanrp

^^^My front KB endlinks came with 1/4" metal spacers. We positioned the spacers to keep the endlinks from hitting the bar. That's the only thing I can think of...

do you have any pictures of yours?

Thanks.

-Jeff

[KarlSTI]

Originally Posted by 96accord

do you have any pictures of yours?

Thanks.

-Jeff

Correct orientation of spacers and washers on front kartboys....

[boxtwo]

I am doing the rear install of the WL 22mm and KB endlinks. Everything is in and tight, but I have a question... I looked through the pics and there seems to be a noticable angle to where the endlinks meet the bar and the mounting point. This looks like it will over-stress the bushing. True/False?

On my install, this is exaclty why I came here. It looks like you need spacer for the back as well. With the endlinks attached to the mounting point, not the bar, they are square. With the bar attached, they bend at an angle towards the center of the car, like the WL bar is short. Does that make sense? Is that "normal"? My gf has the camera today, so I can't take pics...

UPDATE: I drove it a few miles, it was clunky. I retightened the hardware to 36ft#'s after the drive and will see how it is tomorrow.

[KarlSTI]

Originally Posted by boxtwo

I am doing the rear install of the WL 22mm and KB endlinks. Everything is in and tight, but I have a question... I looked through the pics and there seems to be a noticable angle to where the endlinks meet the bar and the mounting point. This looks like it will over-stress the bushing. True/False?

On my install, this is exaclty why I came here. It looks like you need spacer for the back as well. With the endlinks attached to the mounting point, not the bar, they are square. With the bar attached, they bend at an angle towards the center of the car, like the WL bar is short. Does that make sense? Is that "normal"? My gf has the camera today, so I can't take pics...

UPDATE: I drove it a few miles, it was clunky. I retightened the hardware to 36ft#'s after the drive and will see how it is tomorrow.

The picture in the previous post does not have much of an angle where the endlink meets the bar....

Spacer for the back...what do you mean?

Are you sure you have the right bar?

I'm running my Whiteline rear bar now at the 22 mm position (Adjustable from 22, 24, 26mm). Everything lines up perfectly. Did you use th spacers & washers and bolt orientation exactly like the photo above?