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Old 07-12-2006, 08:07 AM   #11
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If you've got a FMIC you can pull the IC pipe off the turbo and jack your pressure tester in there. If you can keep it from blowing the tester out, you should be able to put 30 psi in there...

I'm going to do a whole write-up on this stuff in a minute.

SS
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:14 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subaru of Gwinnett
If you've got a FMIC you can pull the IC pipe off the turbo and jack your pressure tester in there. If you can keep it from blowing the tester out, you should be able to put 30 psi in there...

I'm going to do a whole write-up on this stuff in a minute.

SS
I took off my intake and put the pressure tester in my Perrin inlet hose to test mine.
If anyone is going to do it this way you have to be sure to block the hoses coming off the inlet hose, like the one that goes to the pcv (it will make a funny squeeky noise if you don't block this hose off), and the breather hose.

By putting the pressure tester at the spot you recommended it would make it so you wouldn't have to block off the hoses, but I guess the only downside is you wouldn't get to see if your system is leak-proof at the coupler that connects the turbo to IC piping, right?
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:16 AM   #13
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Yep, I'm outlining my normal procedure in a full post now.

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Old 07-12-2006, 08:49 AM   #14
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Default Subaru of Gwinnett / Siegel Racing Pressure Tester

If you are building a high boost turbo car this is the best $40 you'll ever spend:

You'll be amazed at what leaks you can find with a good pressure tester.

With a MAF based car ANY leaks between MAF and pistons cause the car not to run as well as it would without the leaks.

Even with a MAP based EM, boost leaks make the turbo work harder than it would without the leaks, therefore either boost is lower, or charge air is hotter.

Pressure Tester build instructions: (pics at the end)

1) Take the black plastic accordion piece that goes from MAF Housing to Inlet Pipe into Home Depot. If you find the parts to wedge it into the black accordion, it will generally fit over or in most pipes.

2) Walk around until you have the pieces to put a PVC cap into the accordion, a pipe that just slips inside the adapter, and a male air fitting onto the cap.

You can see from the pics that I used a black rubber reducer to adapt to the pvc end-cap to the size to fit in the accordian. A pipe inside the adapter will keep it from collapsing. I drilled the cap on an angle to make it fit better and allow me to wedge the pressure cap in place to help prevent it from blowing off.

3) buy a cheap pressure regulator and a male and female air fitting. It's SO nice to have the regulator in hand to dial the pressure up and down.

4) assemble PVC and air fittings until you can clamp the pvc cap/pipe into the accordion and dial up some pressure. Drill the cap/plug to make the male air fitting screw in (I just used a burr bit until the air fitting was "self tapping"). I used a grinder to make a lip on the pvc to help hold the adapter on. This was only necessary for putting 30 psi into a system.

Screw the cap with the air fitting into the pvc end-cap. Hose clamp the black rubber adapter onto the pvc. Use a pipe (I think it's 2") to keep the adapter from collapsing.

This setup fits into the accordion, into a Perrin Inlet (sometimes takes some force), and over most IC pipes.

5) FIRST set the regulator ALL the way low. THEN attach the air and regulator to the tester. Slowly crank up the pressure. The little black plastic diaphragm on the front of the intake manifold will buzz from 5 psi to 12.

I normally don't go much over 20 psi with the tester in the inlet. You are pressurizing some parts that don't normally see pressure...

Quite often a leak is OBVIOUS. The air should go almost silent. There will be some air rushing past a valve, but it should sound like it's in the block. There should be ZERO air sounds from "around the engine."

6) If the leak isn't obvious take a big diameter, 3 foot long vacuum line and stick one end in your ear.

7) use the other end to listen around the engine bay until you find it.

8) if you locate the general area of the leak, but can't pinpoint it, a little soapy water or glass cleaner sprayed on the area should give you a visual.

9) if you have access to a smoke machine then you are HUGELY in luck. You can use the smoke machine to put smoke in through the air fitting. A smoke machine only makes like 1 psi, so it won't show anything that only leaks with more pressure. So, fill the system with smoke, then throw the pressure tester on. Now you can put pressure on the smoke filled system.

Have fun. Be careful, anything that pops off at 20 psi tends to pop off with some force.







SS

Last edited by Siegel Racing; 07-12-2006 at 08:57 AM..
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:30 AM   #15
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what about people with aftermarket intake setups??
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:41 AM   #16
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It can be put over the stock inlet, which has a metal ring in it, then clamped down. Usually even a big intake can be moved far enough to put the pressure tester in...

SS
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Old 07-16-2006, 05:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subaru of Gwinnett
It can be put over the stock inlet, which has a metal ring in it, then clamped down. Usually even a big intake can be moved far enough to put the pressure tester in...

SS
thanks scott, good stuff.

any chance SOG can find a wingless java black trunk for me?
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Old 07-18-2006, 09:13 AM   #18
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Wingless Java Black huh? I'll see what we can do

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Old 07-18-2006, 05:03 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subaru of Gwinnett
Wingless Java Black huh? I'll see what we can do

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Thanks man, I owe you a beer
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:53 AM   #20
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Schwing, thanks.
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