[pt518sti]

I've been trying to find some good info on pressure testing and haven't came up with much.
Since I've installed my FMIC not too long ago I'm pretty certain there's leaks.
My car will stall quite a bit when coasting to a stop in neutral and it will hit .5bar easily and feel normal, but it feels like it almost sticks at that point and I have to give it more throttle than usual to get it to go any higher. Even when it does hit full boost it feels very weak, so I'm almost positive it must be a leak or several leaks that are causing this

[Ver7wannabe]

I am interested in this as well, a small leak could rob you of power and you might never know it.

[pt518sti]

Originally Posted by Ver7wannabe

I am interested in this as well, a small leak could rob you of power and you might never know it.

This coming Sunday I'm going to be installing my 20g, up-pipe/ewg, injectors, fuel pump, inlet pipe, etc.. and the very next morning I have my dyno appointment with TDCTuning, so I'm going to want to pressure test the hell out of everything or else I could get tuned around a leak or something and not make as much power as I could be

[skooter_wrx]

you need something that will close your intake system. What my friend does on his z is he has a plate that he puts over his maf and from there the hooks it up to an air compressor with an inline pressure gauge. If the pressure does not hold steady then he searches for a leak and replaces anything that could be a problem.

I plan on installing a turbo and other stuff but you will be doing your install before mine. I will see if I can find a way to build something in the next few days.

Here is a link for one of a 3000GT. Basically the same idea but you would be pressure testing the whole system. You should hook it up pre turbo and seal one of the ends.
http://www.supercar-engineering.com/...T/IntPresTest/

[Siegel Racing]

Pressure Tester build intructions:

1) Take the black plastic accordion piece that goes from maf housing to inlet pipe into Home Depot.

2) Walk around until you have the pieces to put a PVC cap into the accordion and put a male air fitting on it.

3) buy a cheap pressure regulator and a male and female air fitting.

4) assemble PVC and air fittings until you can clamp the pvc cap/pipe into the accordion and dial up some pressure

5) the little black plastic diaphram on the front of the intake manifold will buzz from 5 psi to 12.

6) If the leak isn't obvious take a big diamater, 3 foot long vacuum line and stick one end in your ear

7) use the other end to listen around the engine bay until you find it.

Have fun. Be careful, anything that pops off at 20 psi tends to pop off with some force

SS

[pt518sti]

Originally Posted by Subaru of Gwinnett

Pressure Tester build intructions:

1) Take the black plastic accordion piece that goes from maf housing to inlet pipe into Home Depot.

2) Walk around until you have the pieces to put a PVC cap into the accordion and put a male air fitting on it.

3) buy a cheap pressure regulator and a male and female air fitting.

4) assemble PVC and air fittings until you can clamp the pvc cap/pipe into the accordion and dial up some pressure

5) the little black plastic diaphram on the front of the intake manifold will buzz from 5 psi to 12.

6) If the leak isn't obvious take a big diamater, 3 foot long vacuum line and stick one end in your ear

7) use the other end to listen around the engine bay until you find it.

Have fun. Be careful, anything that pops off at 20 psi tends to pop off with some force

SS

Thank you

Would you mind explaining step 2, 3, and 4 a little further?
Do you happen to have pictures or anything?
Thanks again.

[Siegel Racing]

Pics coming shortly

SS

[La Mer]

Great info Scott. Thanks. Peace of mind is awesome! I've been paranoid that I've been leaking for awhile even though all signs show no leaks.

[pt518sti]

I ended up going with version #4 as seen on this link: http://www.stealth316.com/2-pressuretester.htm

It was the most costly, at almost 40 dollars, but it works awesome

I let a friend of mine borrow it to use on his Evo and we found a bunch of leaks on his car

Mine turned out to be fine and had no leaks

One thing I would like to know how to do is to pressure test just the stock BPV to see how much pressure it'll hold.
I'm pushing 22psi now on a 20g and I'd like to make sure the stock BPV is not leaking at all...

[Siegel Racing]

SS

[Siegel Racing]

If you've got a FMIC you can pull the IC pipe off the turbo and jack your pressure tester in there. If you can keep it from blowing the tester out, you should be able to put 30 psi in there...

I'm going to do a whole write-up on this stuff in a minute.

SS

[pt518sti]

Originally Posted by Subaru of Gwinnett

If you've got a FMIC you can pull the IC pipe off the turbo and jack your pressure tester in there. If you can keep it from blowing the tester out, you should be able to put 30 psi in there...

I'm going to do a whole write-up on this stuff in a minute.

SS

I took off my intake and put the pressure tester in my Perrin inlet hose to test mine.
If anyone is going to do it this way you have to be sure to block the hoses coming off the inlet hose, like the one that goes to the pcv (it will make a funny squeeky noise if you don't block this hose off), and the breather hose.

By putting the pressure tester at the spot you recommended it would make it so you wouldn't have to block off the hoses, but I guess the only downside is you wouldn't get to see if your system is leak-proof at the coupler that connects the turbo to IC piping, right?

[Siegel Racing]

Yep, I'm outlining my normal procedure in a full post now.

SS

[Siegel Racing]

If you are building a high boost turbo car this is the best $40 you'll ever spend:

You'll be amazed at what leaks you can find with a good pressure tester.

With a MAF based car ANY leaks between MAF and pistons cause the car not to run as well as it would without the leaks.

Even with a MAP based EM, boost leaks make the turbo work harder than it would without the leaks, therefore either boost is lower, or charge air is hotter.

Pressure Tester build instructions: (pics at the end)

1) Take the black plastic accordion piece that goes from MAF Housing to Inlet Pipe into Home Depot. If you find the parts to wedge it into the black accordion, it will generally fit over or in most pipes.

2) Walk around until you have the pieces to put a PVC cap into the accordion, a pipe that just slips inside the adapter, and a male air fitting onto the cap.

You can see from the pics that I used a black rubber reducer to adapt to the pvc end-cap to the size to fit in the accordian. A pipe inside the adapter will keep it from collapsing. I drilled the cap on an angle to make it fit better and allow me to wedge the pressure cap in place to help prevent it from blowing off.

3) buy a cheap pressure regulator and a male and female air fitting. It's SO nice to have the regulator in hand to dial the pressure up and down.

4) assemble PVC and air fittings until you can clamp the pvc cap/pipe into the accordion and dial up some pressure. Drill the cap/plug to make the male air fitting screw in (I just used a burr bit until the air fitting was "self tapping"). I used a grinder to make a lip on the pvc to help hold the adapter on. This was only necessary for putting 30 psi into a system.

Screw the cap with the air fitting into the pvc end-cap. Hose clamp the black rubber adapter onto the pvc. Use a pipe (I think it's 2") to keep the adapter from collapsing.

This setup fits into the accordion, into a Perrin Inlet (sometimes takes some force), and over most IC pipes.

5) FIRST set the regulator ALL the way low. THEN attach the air and regulator to the tester. Slowly crank up the pressure. The little black plastic diaphragm on the front of the intake manifold will buzz from 5 psi to 12.

I normally don't go much over 20 psi with the tester in the inlet. You are pressurizing some parts that don't normally see pressure...

Quite often a leak is OBVIOUS. The air should go almost silent. There will be some air rushing past a valve, but it should sound like it's in the block. There should be ZERO air sounds from "around the engine."

6) If the leak isn't obvious take a big diameter, 3 foot long vacuum line and stick one end in your ear.

7) use the other end to listen around the engine bay until you find it.

8) if you locate the general area of the leak, but can't pinpoint it, a little soapy water or glass cleaner sprayed on the area should give you a visual.

9) if you have access to a smoke machine then you are HUGELY in luck. You can use the smoke machine to put smoke in through the air fitting. A smoke machine only makes like 1 psi, so it won't show anything that only leaks with more pressure. So, fill the system with smoke, then throw the pressure tester on. Now you can put pressure on the smoke filled system.

Have fun. Be careful, anything that pops off at 20 psi tends to pop off with some force.







SS

[whitson01]

what about people with aftermarket intake setups??