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Old 10-12-2006, 06:18 PM   #16
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Muffnbluff
I'm going to be installing the front/rear shifter stay bushings and the tic shifter bushings tomorrow. My question is do you guys recommend tapping out the roll pin or using the alternate technique described on tics website?
I used a drill bit, came out just fine...


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Old 10-20-2006, 06:34 AM   #17
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Default Thinking about doing this & have ?

I am thinking about doing this and have read the online instructions. It seems to include the tic shifter bushing ups the PITA factor on install allot. Is it worth it? Is there a big difference between a shifter stay bushing upgrade only and one that includes the tic shifter bushings?

Spazegun - you used the drill bit as a punch? Nice improve. How easy was it to get back in?

Muffnbluff - how did it go? how long did it take and how much better does it feel? Did it really reduce throw 30-40%?

Thank you for your help.
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Old 10-17-2007, 02:07 PM   #18
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Default Re: Tips for installing Kartboy Shifter Bushings

installing this type of thing confuses me. these have been sitting in my glovebox for 2 weeks. hahaha
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:07 PM   #19
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Default Re: Tips for installing Kartboy Shifter Bushings

2 weeks, HA! Mine been sitting in my desk drawer for a year! I was going to install it a couple months ago, but after I switched to motul tranny fluid, the shifting seem to be smoother thus I didn't bother to install the Karboy SS. I got the front bushing, but after reading this thread I might as well get all the other bushings and install them at the same time. Someone mentioned that these bushings are cheap but how cheap are they? And where to get them for cheap?
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Old 10-19-2007, 08:32 AM   #20
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Default Re: Tips for installing Kartboy Shifter Bushings

I have the factory short shifter, a Cobb lever, and Tic pivot bushing. I just finished installing Clint's oh-so fabulous Bodacious Bushing Bundle.

A few answers to questions in various posts:

The front bushing in the factory short shifter is mush. Replace it.

The rear stay bushing that comes from the factory is worse than mush, it is junk. Mine was literally disintegrating.

I used the alternate method, removing the bolt rather than the roll pin, to get the shift assembly out of the car. The whole thing made me wish I had had an assistant because there was a good bit of climbing in and out from under the car to get the jack level just right. So if are going it alone and you have a scissors jack or small hydraulic jack that you can operate while under the car, by all means use it.

Also levering the transmission over with one hand while trying to simultaneously line up the U-joint and bolt with the other hand was a real trick. If I had an assistant levering the transmission it would have been a cakewalk.

The end result is completely awesome and definitely worth all the aggro.

Oh yeah, my bushing kit was sitting on the workbench for a few months too, but only about half as long as the downpipe I installed at the same time. I purchased the downpipe at the end of last winter!
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Old 11-04-2007, 08:26 PM   #21
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Default Re: Tips for installing Kartboy Shifter Bushings

cant wait until i get mine this week so i can throw em in
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Old 11-06-2007, 04:58 AM   #22
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Default Re: Tips for installing Kartboy Shifter Bushings

Thought I would share some of my notes from my install this past weekend. I also have some info on the shifter as well. This was done on an 07... Notes are backwards, do the inside stuff first...

DISSASSEMBLY
1. Read the instructions and learn the landscape under your car.

2. Removing the midpipe is necessary and be VERY careful removing the O2 sensor wire (yellow) BEFORE lossening bolts on the pipe.

3. Support the tranny as indicated in the instructions, makes things a LOT easier.

4. The rear tranny cross brace has to come out completely, the spine can be loosened by removing 2 bolts attached to the rear brace, 2 bolts in the middle, and two nuts recessed towards the front. All I did was wiggle it to where I could lower the back end (minds out of gutter...)

5. Break the shifter at the U-joint, getting to the pin is nearly impossible.

6. Once step 5 is done, lower your jack SLOWLY so it is barely supporting the transmission. Get back under the car and with a pry bar pull the tranny towards the passenger side, reach up and pull the bolt out of the U-joint. Once out, rejack the tranny.

7. A 12" extension can reach the rear shifter mount, once loose, pull rubber bushing off

In the car
8. 4 screws hold the center console, 2 at the center console box and 2 revelaed when the plastic surround is pulled up around the shift boot

9. The shift boot can be GENTLY pulled over the top of the plastic stay below the reverse lockout

10. Use a WHITE towel around the center console

11. Pulling the lever out of the cup is a PITA. It takes a little coercion.

12. There are in fact TWO o-rings in the cup, the white towel will help you find it when it pops out.

REASSEMBLY
1. When putting the bushings in their respective locations, use grease on EVERYTHING.

2. Tighten everything to spec, at least as close as possible. It will be VERY stiff, this is okay.

3. Take the roll pin you popped out of the reverse lockout pull. Find an allen wrench that fits through the center. Wedge the lockout lever at the tranny with the handle of a screwdriver. Put some grease on the shift lever, slide on the spring then slide on the reverse lockout pull (METAL SIDE DOWN!!! Check first because I have heard that it sucks when you put it on backwards )Use the allen wrench to line up the cable and the holes and start the pin by tapping it towards the front. (This will make sense if you try it backwards!) Tap it flush and then tap back the other way once or twice to keep it from binding.

4. Go back underneath the car and semi-tighten everything back up. Grease is your friend. Love the grease. (Not literally, sicko )

5. To get the U-joint, repeat step 5 above. You probably won't be able to get a torque wrench on it.

6. Replace the rear tranny brace

7. Jack up the tranny again

8. Replace the spine and hand tighten the bolts

9. Lower the tranny

10. Tighten bolts for brace and spine

11. Reattach midpipe

12. Be careful routing the O2 sensor wire, make sure it is not against the pipe

13. because you have two extra bolts about 1" long

14. Realize they are for the rear shifter mount and

15. Replace all the interior parts

16. Test drive

17. ENJOY!

I didn't cover everything since the How-To has been done already, but some of these tips should be helpful. Quesions, please feel free to let me know!

Thanks to the folks that answered my questions during the install and Turn in Concepts for a GREAT product! This is a MUST DO mod!!!
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Old 11-06-2007, 08:28 AM   #23
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Default Re: Tips for installing Kartboy Shifter Bushings

I just installed my Holy shift set yesturday and man what a difference! it is lower but the feel is amazing! it feels like its gated.. much more feel, give me more confidence, and no doubt what gear i'm in...
highly recomend it!

oh and ^ i didnt remove the midpipe.. it wasnt all that hard with it in the way, i just moved the transmission a bit to the side to get the bolt out...
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Old 11-07-2007, 04:41 AM   #24
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Default Re: Tips for installing Kartboy Shifter Bushings

I MAY have been able to do it without taking of the midpipe, but I like having the room to work and see what I am doing, especially since that was all new to me.

If/when I am under there again, I'll probably leave it in place.


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