HSPN How-To Series on Brake System Maintenance (Pads, Lines, Fluid) - Page 4

**Ben** · 10-02-2006, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chubs22

Ben,

Thanks for the great vid. I just changed my pads today and I would have never attempted it w/o you posting up this vid. You rock.

Glad to have helped!

**SCOOBYTRAP** · 10-02-2006, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stee

I'd say follow the FrontRight/RearLeft/FrontLeft/RearRight method for the installation of the lines and bleeding at the same time.

More info here:DIY: How to bleed STI Brembo brakes

Thanks, All I need is a 10mm Flare wrench and I think I should be able to do this tomorrow

***KarlSTI*** · 10-12-2006, 04:23 PM

I'm doing it tomorrow, however, I think I'll have all four corners up on jack stands instead of jacking up one wheel at a time....

I gotta rotate the wheels too.....

Foo_Blyat · 10-13-2006, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Foo_Blyat

what if ur trying to get new fluid like ATE blue in, how do u bleed the old fluid out completely?

Quote:

Originally Posted by fullerton

^+1

and how much fluid do I need? where I do dispose of the old stuff?

Ben?!?

**Ben** · 10-13-2006, 11:33 PM

It's hard to fully bleed old fluid, but you can do it eventually. If you cycle 2 or 3 bottles of fluid through the system (keep putting fluid in and bleeding it out) you should get 95% of the old fluid out of the system.

You can dispose of it at any auto parts store like pep boys.

import111 · 10-28-2006, 12:44 PM

I just installed Ferodo DS2500's at all 4 corners today. The video helped me out a lot. I used the stock shims and some anti squeal grease to hopefully keep squeal away. My fluid over flowed like crazy when I got to the 3rd corner (FL). Next time I will know to suck some fluid out with a syringe or something to make sure that does not happen again.

docwyte · 10-28-2006, 02:21 PM

I just use a Motive Power Bleeder. Works like a charm. Alternate between Ate Typ200 and Super Blue, you know you've done a complete fluid flush once the color has completely changed.

Interestingly enough, I bled the brakes when the car had 2200 miles and you wouldn't believe the air bubbles and debris that came out of the calipers! Much, much improved pedal feel now...

***KarlSTI*** · 10-29-2006, 05:44 AM

I followed the video and it worked pretty well for me.

I used a small flat blade screw driver to take the rubber caps off the bleed valve though because I would easily tear them with needle nose pliars. The SS lines and the HP+ pads work great....noise is not bad at all and the dust seems less than stock pads. Used them for 2 days of autox last weekend and I'm happy with the brake feel.

AnorexicSTI · 10-31-2006, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by import111

I just installed Ferodo DS2500's at all 4 corners today. The video helped me out a lot. I used the stock shims and some anti squeal grease to hopefully keep squeal away. My fluid over flowed like crazy when I got to the 3rd corner (FL). Next time I will know to suck some fluid out with a syringe or something to make sure that does not happen again.

Ok so is the only purpose of the shims to prevent brake squeal? If one can tolerate the noise (I honestly don't hear anything), is there a performance gain to be had to go without the shims? The shims don't cover the entire piston surface area... so part of the piston is pressing on the shim and part is pressing on the pad backing plate... if it even squeezes the shim enough to reach it... this can't be optimal can it???

pearwear · 02-13-2007, 03:46 PM

what would one use to clean dirty / squeaky pads and rotors?

is there something I can buy somewhere, or does just using water and a rag do the trick?

**Ben** · 02-13-2007, 04:10 PM

Squeaking isn't caused by dirty pads or rotors, so cleaning them isn't reallly going to solve your problem

.

lokutus1 · 02-14-2007, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pearwear

what would one use to clean dirty / squeaky pads and rotors?

is there something I can buy somewhere, or does just using water and a rag do the trick?

brake kleen or something similar if you want to clean up brake parts. won't fix the squeaky though as ben said. you could try brake quiet on the pads.

Minnesota01R6 · 04-10-2007, 10:19 PM

Some things I wanted to comment on after doing a SS line install:

1) you guys must have loosened and then re-tightented the brake lines before filming, because I rounded all 4 nuts with my flare wrench. I ended up using a vice grip and that seemed to work better. My nuts are now cylinders.

2) the rear banjo bolt was puzzling to me at first, but then I got a flashlight out and figured it out. Would have been nice to be included in the vid.

3) you can plug the open line with your finger and then take your time getting the new SS line in place - fluid won't run out until you take your finger off.

stevos758 · 04-10-2007, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Some things I wanted to comment on after doing a SS line install:

1) you guys must have loosened and then re-tightented the brake lines before filming, because I rounded all 4 nuts with my flare wrench. I ended up using a vice grip and that seemed to work better. My nuts are now cylinders.

2) the rear banjo bolt was puzzling to me at first, but then I got a flashlight out and figured it out. Would have been nice to be included in the vid.

3) you can plug the open line with your finger and then take your time getting the new SS line in place - fluid won't run out until you take your finger off.

yes. My flare wrench also rounded off the nuts. I highly reccomend just using a vise grips.

**Ben** · 04-11-2007, 06:55 PM

We pretty much always losened and re-tightened bolts in the install so we didn't look like idiots on camera, but I can tell you that I loosened the bolts with a flare wrench (not a vise grip) and it loosened just fine without stripping. Perhaps you had the wrong size?

04-11-2007, 06:55 PM	#60
Ben Retired Admin Car: 2006 Audi S4 Fav Mod: Weight Loss Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 2,828 Join Date: Dec 1969 Trader Rating: (11)	We pretty much always losened and re-tightened bolts in the install so we didn't look like idiots on camera, but I can tell you that I loosened the bolts with a flare wrench (not a vise grip) and it loosened just fine without stripping. Perhaps you had the wrong size? This ad is not endorsed by this member. Please register or login to hide this ad.

10-12-2006, 04:23 PM	#48
*KarlSTI* Titanium Member Car: 05 CGM STi Fav Mod: Bill Location: Neptune Bch, FL Posts: 4,114 Join Date: Mar 2005 Trader Rating: (1)	I'm doing it tomorrow, however, I think I'll have all four corners up on jack stands instead of jacking up one wheel at a time.... I gotta rotate the wheels too.....

10-13-2006, 11:33 PM	#50
Ben Retired Admin Car: 2006 Audi S4 Fav Mod: Weight Loss Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 2,828 Join Date: Dec 1969 Trader Rating: (11)	It's hard to fully bleed old fluid, but you can do it eventually. If you cycle 2 or 3 bottles of fluid through the system (keep putting fluid in and bleeding it out) you should get 95% of the old fluid out of the system. You can dispose of it at any auto parts store like pep boys.

10-28-2006, 12:44 PM	#51
import111 The Next Petter Solberg Car: Silver 05 WRX STi Location: Tucson, AZ. Posts: 883 Join Date: Dec 2004 Trader Rating: (0)	I just installed Ferodo DS2500's at all 4 corners today. The video helped me out a lot. I used the stock shims and some anti squeal grease to hopefully keep squeal away. My fluid over flowed like crazy when I got to the 3rd corner (FL). Next time I will know to suck some fluid out with a syringe or something to make sure that does not happen again.

10-28-2006, 02:21 PM	#52
docwyte Senior STI Driver Location: denver, CO Posts: 337 Join Date: May 2006 Trader Rating: (1)	I just use a Motive Power Bleeder. Works like a charm. Alternate between Ate Typ200 and Super Blue, you know you've done a complete fluid flush once the color has completely changed. Interestingly enough, I bled the brakes when the car had 2200 miles and you wouldn't believe the air bubbles and debris that came out of the calipers! Much, much improved pedal feel now...

10-29-2006, 05:44 AM	#53
*KarlSTI* Titanium Member Car: 05 CGM STi Fav Mod: Bill Location: Neptune Bch, FL Posts: 4,114 Join Date: Mar 2005 Trader Rating: (1)	I followed the video and it worked pretty well for me. I used a small flat blade screw driver to take the rubber caps off the bleed valve though because I would easily tear them with needle nose pliars. The SS lines and the HP+ pads work great....noise is not bad at all and the dust seems less than stock pads. Used them for 2 days of autox last weekend and I'm happy with the brake feel.

02-13-2007, 03:46 PM	#55
pearwear Amateur STI Driver Car: 06 Subaru WRX STi Fav Mod: Coming Soon Location: North Bay, ON Posts: 24 Join Date: Sep 2005 Trader Rating: (0)	what would one use to clean dirty / squeaky pads and rotors? is there something I can buy somewhere, or does just using water and a rag do the trick?

02-13-2007, 04:10 PM	#56
Ben Retired Admin Car: 2006 Audi S4 Fav Mod: Weight Loss Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 2,828 Join Date: Dec 1969 Trader Rating: (11)	Squeaking isn't caused by dirty pads or rotors, so cleaning them isn't reallly going to solve your problem .

04-10-2007, 10:19 PM	#58
Minnesota01R6 Amateur STI Driver Posts: 22 Join Date: Jul 2004 Trader Rating: (0)	Some things I wanted to comment on after doing a SS line install: 1) you guys must have loosened and then re-tightented the brake lines before filming, because I rounded all 4 nuts with my flare wrench. I ended up using a vice grip and that seemed to work better. My nuts are now cylinders. 2) the rear banjo bolt was puzzling to me at first, but then I got a flashlight out and figured it out. Would have been nice to be included in the vid. 3) you can plug the open line with your finger and then take your time getting the new SS line in place - fluid won't run out until you take your finger off.