Kartboy Rear Diff Outrigger Bushings

kts262 · 05-29-2006, 02:21 PM

This is a really simple install. The instructions on Scoobymods are really all you need so I probably shouldn't have documented this install, but it can't hurt to fill out this part of the site more.

Original ScoobyMods directions: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?p=17472

Peaty wasn't lying when he said it's a 10 minute per side install. I usually figure it'll take me twice as long as people say the install is but this took me 25 minutes from backing my car up onto ramps until I was down off the ramps and I took pictures!

Tools:

- Ramps or jack + jackstand (You can do this on the ground if you want but I wanted to try out my new lowprofile ramps.
- 12mm and 17mm sockets + socket wrench/breaker bar (I just used a breaker bar)
- Grease
- Rubber gloves (so you don't get grease on yourself)

1. Get the car up on ramps.

2. Find the rear diff outrigger on the driver's side and the plate that covers it. It looks like this:

Where is this? It's right by the rear jack points along the side skirts. (jacking point pointed to in red.)

3. I started removing the 17mm bolt first with a socket and a breaker bar. It turned pretty easy and came out. then I removed the 2 12mm bolts and removed the plate covering the outrigger.

4. On top of the outrigger is a metal stopper plate. Lift it up and remove it from the outrigger. Peaty had to pull down on the outrigger to get it out, it just slid off for me.

This is what you're left with:

The Kartboy kit comes with 6 bushings. There is a large diameter bushing that is thin, that is for older GC8s. You'll use the 2 thicker bushings.

Smaller thin bushing on the right, compared to the thicker bushing we will use.

These are the 2 bushings we'll use (Larger one goes on top, smaller on bottom):

5. Grease up the large diameter bushing and mount it on top of the stopper plate.

6. Place the bushing and stopper plate back on top of the outrigger. Use the 17mm bolt as a guide to make sure you have them on right if you need to.

7. Grease up the smaller bushing and put it on the bottom of the outrigger. Push it in there a little bit and it will stick.

8. Now you need to reinstall the outrigger cover plate. I used one hand to push up on the plate and outrigger and the other to turn the 17mm bolt and start to thread it. Then I got the 12mm bolts back in and tighted them down some. I went back and forth between the 17mm and 12mm bolts until they were tightened down.

Torque specs:

12mm - 24ft-lbs.
17mm - 74ft-lbs.

This is the end result:

Now move over to the passenger side and repeat all of the steps above. Then you're done! Take the car out for a spin and enjoy.

I took the car out for a little bit post-install. The back of the car does feel more responsive and connected. I didn't notice any increased NVH.

Not bad for a $30 mod.

UPDATE (6/7/06): After having this mod on the car for about 2 weeks there was a vibration around 80mph that was driving me nuts. I replaced the top large bushing with the large thinner bushing. I took it out for a spin at the vibration at 80mph is gone. I was being a bit rough on the car and didn't notice any clunks and most of the responsiveness is still there. A win for me.

TRM 23-AUG-2006: added to the How-To catalog sticky

wjc04wrx · 05-31-2006, 11:25 AM

Did the top bushing sit inside the stock rubber bushing as the bottom one does? I tried, tried, and tried to make the top bushing fit inside the stock one, but it was just not possible. The top bushing is the same diameter or larger than the stock bushing and it would not go in.

kts262 · 05-31-2006, 01:08 PM

See the last pic in my install guide, I did not get it to sit down in the Outrigger. Peaty's pic on Scoobymods looks the same as mine does and I do not think it is supposed to sit down in there.

After driving on this mod a bit more I'm feeling a lot more NVH that I had expected. At times it feels like my seat is a massage chair. I'm going to swap in the thinner bushing this weekend and see if that makes things a bit less rough for daily driving.

wjc04wrx · 05-31-2006, 03:35 PM

Ok, I can now sleep better at night knowing that I'm not the only one. The scoobymods instructions, which I fully read, states that if you work it enough it will fit inside the stock rubber bushing. To me, it was impossible.

So, are you saying that you have a much harsher ride with the bushings on?

LightWerkz · 05-31-2006, 03:57 PM

if you are having a much harsher ride with these I cant wait to find out how my cusco motor/tranny mount, kartboy tranny mount bushings, and Klunk killer kit feels !

kts262 · 06-01-2006, 03:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wjc04wrx

Ok, I can now sleep better at night knowing that I'm not the only one. The scoobymods instructions, which I fully read, states that if you work it enough it will fit inside the stock rubber bushing. To me, it was impossible.

So, are you saying that you have a much harsher ride with the bushings on?

I didn't see that they stated the top bushing would fit insided the stock rubber bushing. If you feel up there there really isn't anything. The bottom bushing will fit inside the stock rubber bushing easily. Take a look at Peaty's finished pic:

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/att...achmentid=3795

His didn't go in either.

I have been feeling a much harsher ride. I drive at ~80 a fair amount and when I left off the gas and the car deccelerates a bit I get some loud diff sounds and I get a vibration in my seat. At other times while accelerating it's making diff sounds and it really does change the sound of the car. You can feel it's a lot stiffer and the energy is going to the wheels instead of the gaps in bushings on the outrigger but it takes some getting used to. As I said I'm going to try the smaller thin GC8 bushing this weekend to see if that is a better mix of performance and less NVH for me.

kts262 · 06-01-2006, 03:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ESsTeAEyEe

if you are having a much harsher ride with these I cant wait to find out how my cusco motor/tranny mount, kartboy tranny mount bushings, and Klunk killer kit feels !

w-w-w-w-hat? t-t-t-he c-a-r i-i-i-s sh-sh-sh-sh-shaking t-t-t-t-oo m-u-c-h f-f-f-for m-e t-t-t-o t-t-t-alk r-r-r-right n-n-n-n-ow....

kts262 · 06-07-2006, 05:07 PM

UPDATE (6/7/06): After having this mod on the car for about 2 weeks there was a vibration around 80mph that was driving me nuts. I replaced the top large bushing with the large thinner bushing. I took it out for a spin at the vibration at 80mph is gone. I was being a bit rough on the car and didn't notice any clunks and most of the responsiveness is still there. A win for me.

Stee · 06-07-2006, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ESsTeAEyEe

if you are having a much harsher ride with these I cant wait to find out how my cusco motor/tranny mount, kartboy tranny mount bushings, and Klunk killer kit feels !

Trust me, it's OK!

Stee · 06-07-2006, 05:58 PM

I actually ordered two sets of these for one application.
I addressed the issue pertaining to the top bushing to Clint in the past, and while he was wholly receptive, it's just how he or whoever else he had design it.

I plan on removing the 'tangs' from the disk pictured on the left here:

this will allow me to install a second, small bushing on top- the same one that is installed on the bottom. Keep in mind that you would need two of these kits to do this. The second small bushing on top will do a much better job at quelling lateral and vertical movement than the plate with the 'tangs' itself could ever do. Couple this with either the larger thick or thin bushing on top and now you have a pretty locked up outrigger FTW.

p.s. I don't give the slightest ---- about NVH, lol.

kts262 · 06-07-2006, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stee

p.s. I don't give the slightest ---- about NVH, lol.

hahahahaha. i tried to ignore it but feeling it every day on the highway was driving me nuts. it made me feel like the rear diff was grinding and something bad was happening. it wasn't but it still freaked me out. a little less performance for keeping my mind more at ease is worth it to me.

if i had the STi as a full time track car i wouldn't care and i would go all out, but for now i have to mix daily driving and weekend auto-x use.

Stee · 07-04-2006, 04:18 AM

**Update:**

I already had Cusco tranny/engine mounts, Group N rear diff mount, and a custom pitch mount and there was STILL some kind of drivetrain movement which resulted in some wheel hop at the last few drag outtings and autocrosses. I had 2 sets of TIC outrigger bushings to do what I explained in the ^above^ post but waited until today to install them. Let's just say that I'm glad I finally did!

Despite my ^above^ post, I went ahead and left the 'tangs' intact on the metal plates whose purpose is to keep movement of the stock outrigger bushings to a minimum, which we know doesn't happen. I installed the driver's side bushings as per the instructions but took great care in keeping the top large, thick bushing perfectly centered upon tightening, allowing it to fit inside the metal cylinder. Otherwise, it will be squooshed inbetween the plate inself and the stock outrigger support housing when you are tightening it.

Moving on to the passenger side, I noticed that the stock outrigger bushing was recessed on top much more than the driver's side, allowing a small donut to be also installed on top, in the same manner as the bottom. This coupled with a thick, larger bushing on top worked absolutely perfect.

As soon as I drove the car out of the driveway, I immediately knew that I had a drivetrain the was finally 'locked down' the way I wanted it. The outrigger bushings were the missing links all along and I'm glad that I installed them.

STI5150 · 07-09-2006, 04:29 PM

^^^Darn I was about to install these this week. Let's see now-you basically did the following:
1. Install bushings on driver side as per original instructions.
2. Install bushings on passenger side as per original instructions with the exception of putting one of the small bushing on top between bigger bushing.

Darn is that how you did it?

Good Info...

Stee · 07-10-2006, 02:41 PM

^Yes, but you'll need 2 kits... or beg someone from TIC to give you that extra one.

Doctor Subie · 07-11-2006, 05:20 PM

I installed this last week, with large thinner bushing up top, and smaller one on bottom. Didn't remove tangs, or mess with the thicker bushing (for the Forester I presume). Anyhow, didn't notice any vibration that you had--the one thing I did notice was that my clutch pedal was quite a bit stiffer, and engagement seemed a bit more direct. That was about it...

05-29-2006, 02:21 PM	#1
kts262 HowTo Contributor Car: 2008 DGM (BBS+Navi) Fav Mod: stock FTL? Location: College Park, MD Posts: 2,088 Join Date: Jan 2005 Trader Rating: (7)	Kartboy Rear Diff Outrigger Bushings This is a really simple install. The instructions on Scoobymods are really all you need so I probably shouldn't have documented this install, but it can't hurt to fill out this part of the site more. Original ScoobyMods directions: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?p=17472 Peaty wasn't lying when he said it's a 10 minute per side install. I usually figure it'll take me twice as long as people say the install is but this took me 25 minutes from backing my car up onto ramps until I was down off the ramps and I took pictures! Tools: - Ramps or jack + jackstand (You can do this on the ground if you want but I wanted to try out my new lowprofile ramps. - 12mm and 17mm sockets + socket wrench/breaker bar (I just used a breaker bar) - Grease - Rubber gloves (so you don't get grease on yourself) 1. Get the car up on ramps. 2. Find the rear diff outrigger on the driver's side and the plate that covers it. It looks like this: Where is this? It's right by the rear jack points along the side skirts. (jacking point pointed to in red.) 3. I started removing the 17mm bolt first with a socket and a breaker bar. It turned pretty easy and came out. then I removed the 2 12mm bolts and removed the plate covering the outrigger. 4. On top of the outrigger is a metal stopper plate. Lift it up and remove it from the outrigger. Peaty had to pull down on the outrigger to get it out, it just slid off for me. This is what you're left with: The Kartboy kit comes with 6 bushings. There is a large diameter bushing that is thin, that is for older GC8s. You'll use the 2 thicker bushings. Smaller thin bushing on the right, compared to the thicker bushing we will use. These are the 2 bushings we'll use (Larger one goes on top, smaller on bottom): 5. Grease up the large diameter bushing and mount it on top of the stopper plate. 6. Place the bushing and stopper plate back on top of the outrigger. Use the 17mm bolt as a guide to make sure you have them on right if you need to. 7. Grease up the smaller bushing and put it on the bottom of the outrigger. Push it in there a little bit and it will stick. 8. Now you need to reinstall the outrigger cover plate. I used one hand to push up on the plate and outrigger and the other to turn the 17mm bolt and start to thread it. Then I got the 12mm bolts back in and tighted them down some. I went back and forth between the 17mm and 12mm bolts until they were tightened down. Torque specs: 12mm - 24ft-lbs. 17mm - 74ft-lbs. This is the end result: Now move over to the passenger side and repeat all of the steps above. Then you're done! Take the car out for a spin and enjoy. I took the car out for a little bit post-install. The back of the car does feel more responsive and connected. I didn't notice any increased NVH. Not bad for a $30 mod. UPDATE (6/7/06): After having this mod on the car for about 2 weeks there was a vibration around 80mph that was driving me nuts. I replaced the top large bushing with the large thinner bushing. I took it out for a spin at the vibration at 80mph is gone. I was being a bit rough on the car and didn't notice any clunks and most of the responsiveness is still there. A win for me. TRM 23-AUG-2006: added to the How-To catalog sticky This ad is not endorsed by this member. Please register or login to hide this ad. Last edited by TRM : 08-23-2006 at 08:17 AM.

06-07-2006, 05:58 PM	#10
Stee Spec C Club Car: 2008 Fitrari Red Fav Mod: Getting 40mpg Location: North Jersey Posts: 1,537 Join Date: Jan 2004 Trader Rating: (8)	I actually ordered two sets of these for one application. I addressed the issue pertaining to the top bushing to Clint in the past, and while he was wholly receptive, it's just how he or whoever else he had design it. I plan on removing the 'tangs' from the disk pictured on the left here: this will allow me to install a second, small bushing on top- the same one that is installed on the bottom. Keep in mind that you would need two of these kits to do this. The second small bushing on top will do a much better job at quelling lateral and vertical movement than the plate with the 'tangs' itself could ever do. Couple this with either the larger thick or thin bushing on top and now you have a pretty locked up outrigger FTW. p.s. I don't give the slightest ---- about NVH, lol. Last edited by Stee : 06-07-2006 at 06:04 PM.

07-11-2006, 05:20 PM	#15
Doctor Subie Junior STI Driver Car: 2006 STI OBP Fav Mod: Kartboy SS Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 164 Join Date: May 2006 Trader Rating: (1)	I installed this last week, with large thinner bushing up top, and smaller one on bottom. Didn't remove tangs, or mess with the thicker bushing (for the Forester I presume). Anyhow, didn't notice any vibration that you had--the one thing I did notice was that my clutch pedal was quite a bit stiffer, and engagement seemed a bit more direct. That was about it... This ad is not endorsed by this member. Please register or login to hide this ad.

05-31-2006, 11:25 AM	#2
wjc04wrx Junior STI Driver Posts: 88 Join Date: Oct 2004 Trader Rating: (0)	Did the top bushing sit inside the stock rubber bushing as the bottom one does? I tried, tried, and tried to make the top bushing fit inside the stock one, but it was just not possible. The top bushing is the same diameter or larger than the stock bushing and it would not go in.

05-31-2006, 01:08 PM	#3
kts262 HowTo Contributor Car: 2008 DGM (BBS+Navi) Fav Mod: stock FTL? Location: College Park, MD Posts: 2,088 Join Date: Jan 2005 Trader Rating: (7)	See the last pic in my install guide, I did not get it to sit down in the Outrigger. Peaty's pic on Scoobymods looks the same as mine does and I do not think it is supposed to sit down in there. After driving on this mod a bit more I'm feeling a lot more NVH that I had expected. At times it feels like my seat is a massage chair. I'm going to swap in the thinner bushing this weekend and see if that makes things a bit less rough for daily driving.

05-31-2006, 03:35 PM	#4
wjc04wrx Junior STI Driver Posts: 88 Join Date: Oct 2004 Trader Rating: (0)	Ok, I can now sleep better at night knowing that I'm not the only one. The scoobymods instructions, which I fully read, states that if you work it enough it will fit inside the stock rubber bushing. To me, it was impossible. So, are you saying that you have a much harsher ride with the bushings on?

05-31-2006, 03:57 PM	#5
LightWerkz STI Master Car: E46 M3 Fav Mod: ZCP Wheels Location: Clifton Posts: 7,485 Join Date: Aug 2005 Trader Rating: (77)	if you are having a much harsher ride with these I cant wait to find out how my cusco motor/tranny mount, kartboy tranny mount bushings, and Klunk killer kit feels !

06-07-2006, 05:07 PM	#8
kts262 HowTo Contributor Car: 2008 DGM (BBS+Navi) Fav Mod: stock FTL? Location: College Park, MD Posts: 2,088 Join Date: Jan 2005 Trader Rating: (7)	UPDATE (6/7/06): After having this mod on the car for about 2 weeks there was a vibration around 80mph that was driving me nuts. I replaced the top large bushing with the large thinner bushing. I took it out for a spin at the vibration at 80mph is gone. I was being a bit rough on the car and didn't notice any clunks and most of the responsiveness is still there. A win for me.

07-04-2006, 04:18 AM	#12
Stee Spec C Club Car: 2008 Fitrari Red Fav Mod: Getting 40mpg Location: North Jersey Posts: 1,537 Join Date: Jan 2004 Trader Rating: (8)	Update: I already had Cusco tranny/engine mounts, Group N rear diff mount, and a custom pitch mount and there was STILL some kind of drivetrain movement which resulted in some wheel hop at the last few drag outtings and autocrosses. I had 2 sets of TIC outrigger bushings to do what I explained in the ^above^ post but waited until today to install them. Let's just say that I'm glad I finally did! Despite my ^above^ post, I went ahead and left the 'tangs' intact on the metal plates whose purpose is to keep movement of the stock outrigger bushings to a minimum, which we know doesn't happen. I installed the driver's side bushings as per the instructions but took great care in keeping the top large, thick bushing perfectly centered upon tightening, allowing it to fit inside the metal cylinder. Otherwise, it will be squooshed inbetween the plate inself and the stock outrigger support housing when you are tightening it. Moving on to the passenger side, I noticed that the stock outrigger bushing was recessed on top much more than the driver's side, allowing a small donut to be also installed on top, in the same manner as the bottom. This coupled with a thick, larger bushing on top worked absolutely perfect. As soon as I drove the car out of the driveway, I immediately knew that I had a drivetrain the was finally 'locked down' the way I wanted it. The outrigger bushings were the missing links all along and I'm glad that I installed them.

07-09-2006, 04:29 PM	#13
STI5150 STI Driver Car: 2005 STI Location: RGV Texas Posts: 215 Join Date: Jun 2005 Trader Rating: (3)	^^^Darn I was about to install these this week. Let's see now-you basically did the following: 1. Install bushings on driver side as per original instructions. 2. Install bushings on passenger side as per original instructions with the exception of putting one of the small bushing on top between bigger bushing. Darn is that how you did it? Good Info...

07-10-2006, 02:41 PM	#14
Stee Spec C Club Car: 2008 Fitrari Red Fav Mod: Getting 40mpg Location: North Jersey Posts: 1,537 Join Date: Jan 2004 Trader Rating: (8)	^Yes, but you'll need 2 kits... or beg someone from TIC to give you that extra one.