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Old 03-11-2007, 08:05 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supermarkus
It's a total of 5 bolts if memory serves me correctly. remove the first two that hold the seat bottom in place and remove the cushion. Then remove the 3 holding the back in place and lift it out. Seriously, its so easy that if you REALLY have to have it explained to you, you shouldn't be turning wrenches on your own car.
Thanks, but I just needed the location of them. I'm a mechanic by trade, so I know a thing or two about turning wrenches.


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Old 03-12-2007, 12:22 AM   #77
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k, check out the calf area for the seat bottom. then just above the seat bottoms for the seat backs.
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Old 03-13-2007, 12:33 PM   #78
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Default This hack method has been used by many..

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Originally Posted by b0oSt1N_LrG
one question... i don't know how you're supposed to take this nut off if i'm using hand tools... i thought this is where i use the wrench and the allen key, but how do i get the wrench to hold on to the nut? it's inside the upper mount...
I bought a spar socket and dremelled the sides flat so that that a set of vise grips could grip it without slipping. the allen wrench goes right through the top of the socket. I use a set of plyers or another set of vise grips to hold on to the allen while I tighten with the socket.
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Old 03-13-2007, 09:29 PM   #79
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GearWrenches FTW.
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Old 03-14-2007, 06:36 AM   #80
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So when putting the strut back together (the nut you take out for the bumpstops, and the nut for the strut top) is it possible to get a torque wrench on there? Or will it keep rotating while you try to torque it to spec?

Or do you just have to wing it with the impact gun?
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Old 03-14-2007, 06:51 AM   #81
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the bottom you can't do much but wing it on.

the top nut, if you have an offset box wrench + allen key you should be able to get it tight.
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Old 03-14-2007, 07:04 AM   #82
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^^^Well, a box wrench won't let you set it to specific torque specs either, so I guess impacting it on is the best bet

Man, I hope I don't F those nuts up using the impact wrench 41 lb-ft is nothing!
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Old 03-14-2007, 07:55 PM   #83
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In the process of doing this..however came across this idea that worked and am now passing on as a tip.

Loosen the top 17mm bolt while it is still in the car. This eliminates the need for the allen wrench if you don't have an air impact.

and as far as torquing the top bolt back to spec..anyone tried putting it back in the car and tightening it under load? I got it off that way maybe it will go back on that way

Last edited by IDAHOSTI : 03-14-2007 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 03-14-2007, 08:24 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDAHOSTI
In the process of doing this..however came across this idea that worked and am now passing on as a tip.

Loosen the top 17mm bolt while it is still in the car. This eliminates the need for the allen wrench if you don't have an air impact.

and as far as torquing the top bolt back to spec..anyone tried putting it back in the car and tightening it under load? I got it off that way maybe it will go back on that way
i was able to tighten one of those bolts that got loose that way, but after tightening it a little it just started to spin. you can give it a try but i can't promise anything.
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Old 03-15-2007, 05:58 PM   #85
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Well I managed to torque the top bolt to 41 (as stated here, don't have a manual, is that correct???) by installing the strut back in the car, setting it down and turning nice and steady.

however the rears are a diff story as there is no access hole.

Maxed out the camber and ready for alignment
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Old 03-15-2007, 06:26 PM   #86
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This is a good write up. Doing my springs as well, very soon.
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Old 03-16-2007, 05:17 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nandanrp
So when putting the strut back together (the nut you take out for the bumpstops, and the nut for the strut top) is it possible to get a torque wrench on there? Or will it keep rotating while you try to torque it to spec?

Or do you just have to wing it with the impact gun?
I had no problem tightening that bolt down by hand. No impact gun is needed for any part of this install....convenient, but not needed.
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Old 03-16-2007, 06:27 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebelp
I had no problem tightening that bolt down by hand. No impact gun is needed for any part of this install....convenient, but not needed.
So the shaft didn't start to spin as you tightened by hand? That's good to know...
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Old 03-16-2007, 02:25 PM   #89
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I used an airgun on everything, entire install took less than an hour.
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Old 03-25-2007, 10:39 AM   #90
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Used this to put on tanabe's this weekend.

Tips:

I second the comment to loosen the 17mm nuts in the top hat before taking the spring/strut off. I used a long adjustable torque-bar/socket wrench (like a breaker bar but better) along with a 17mm extended length socket, worked like a charm. To get the nut all the way off, I used a large vice-lock pipe wrench, and clamped onto the socket, passed the allen wrench thru, and held that with another wrench... ghetto, but worked fine.

The 19mm nuts (bottom of the two) on the rear struts are a big pain... Cant get a socket over them b/c of the rear axles. I slipped a 19mm gear wrench over the nut, held the bolt with my torque-bar, and had to hammer on the wrench to get the nut loose... used plenty of pb-blaster too. BE careful if you do this to hold the gear wrench steady (I used a rag) b/c if it starts backing-off the nut and you whack it with the hammer, you will strip it.

Make sure the top hats are pointing in the right direction - towards the part of the strut that attaches to the knuckle, or you will have to twist it like crazy to line-it-up when you go to re-instal.

Dont forget to re-check lugs are good and tight when done.


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