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Old 12-13-2006, 07:35 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebtarta
Dp yopu have the full front end up on the air? It might be that the sway is putting some load from the other side preventing you to be able to match the strut with the hub.
i have one side up at a time, but the first thing i do is unhook the sway whenever i do any suspension work.


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Old 12-13-2006, 10:04 PM   #62
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man that is SO much easier than a VW suspension job. Killer writeup!
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Old 12-14-2006, 05:25 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmonet
i have one side up at a time, but the first thing i do is unhook the sway whenever i do any suspension work.
Seems like for this reason (uneven load on swaybars), it makes it that much more difficult to do one side at a time, rather than both fronts or both rears at once.
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Old 12-14-2006, 08:40 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebelp
Seems like for this reason (uneven load on swaybars), it makes it that much more difficult to do one side at a time, rather than both fronts or both rears at once.
Yeah but if he unhooked the sway bar it wouldn't affect anything by having only one side up at a time.
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Old 12-14-2006, 04:46 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ver7wannabe
Yeah but if he unhooked the sway bar it wouldn't affect anything by having only one side up at a time.
exactly. hell, you *always* unhook the sways when you work on the suspension. you need to unhook them front and rear to corner balance, let alone pull the struts
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Old 02-11-2007, 09:26 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shomen
Great write up, question on 2 torque values. The 17mm that seperates the top hat from the spring and the 14mm bolt in the front springs that allows you to modify the bump stops.
According to the service manual, the torque for the top strut mount bolt that holds the top hat to the strut is 41 ft-lb.

There is no published number for the bottom nut on the strut (which you take off to replace the bump stops). Does Prodrive provide torque numbers for this bolt, since they are the only ones that provide replacement bumpstops with their springs?

In other words, what is the torque value for the bottom nut that is removed to replace the bump stop?
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Old 02-11-2007, 12:56 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nandanrp
Does Prodrive provide torque numbers for this bolt, since they are the only ones that provide replacement bumpstops with their springs?
Prodrive says 40Nm. (29.5ft-lbs I think.)

If you google "prodrive_bumpstop.pdf" you should be able to find the documentation somewhere.
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Old 02-11-2007, 02:39 PM   #68
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Great, thanks!
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Old 02-11-2007, 06:09 PM   #69
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Default spring compresser

u can get spring compressor for free like people say so..
go to autozone and rent one for free
keep it as long as u want then return it after finish do spring install.
but u have to buy for about 40dollars to rent it but when u return it u will get money back. it like bowling shoes.
my brother did it before for his jeep wrangler to replace spring to make it liftable for offroad. it not that hard to rent it
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Old 02-19-2007, 03:26 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebtarta
With a rag grab the shaft and then pull (like never before) the stopper. Once both stoppers are out, you want to cut the 1st ring. (READ this why Bump Stops) Once you cut the ring out with a fine piece of sand paper smooth the end out. Once both are done place them back with the small end first...
What do you cut the bump stops with? Can you cut them with scissors? I want to make sure I have all the tools before I start this. Thanks.

Last edited by eggeegg : 02-21-2007 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 02-22-2007, 01:03 PM   #71
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I just use a sharp exacto blade to cut the bumpstops. They're foam rubber, so cutting them isn't hard to do.


Awesome thread guys.
I've done a dozen spring installs on WRX/STi in the last 6 years, and this thread still helps. It should be called lowering for dummies, or a reference for the rest of us.

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Old 02-25-2007, 03:39 PM   #72
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I think i also stripped my camber bolts on the left and right side at 130ft-lbs. It just turns and turns as I try to tighten. Is it safe to drive on for now? Where can I get replacements?

Quote:
Originally Posted by stretch
I just stripped the threads off of a lower strut bolt- the one that adjusts camber. I was trying to torque it to 140ft-lbs, just a smidge over the spec published in this thread, and it never came. Now the nut won't come off, it just spins (with some resistance).

I guess the recommendation to replaces these bolts every time they're removed might have some validity.
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Old 03-10-2007, 05:16 PM   #73
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How do you remove the rear seats?
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Old 03-11-2007, 05:29 PM   #74
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It's a total of 5 bolts if memory serves me correctly. remove the first two that hold the seat bottom in place and remove the cushion. Then remove the 3 holding the back in place and lift it out. Seriously, its so easy that if you REALLY have to have it explained to you, you shouldn't be turning wrenches on your own car.
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Old 03-11-2007, 06:50 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eggeegg
I think i also stripped my camber bolts on the left and right side at 130ft-lbs. It just turns and turns as I try to tighten. Is it safe to drive on for now? Where can I get replacements?
IMHO if the bolts aren't tight, it is not safe to drive.


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