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Old 11-19-2006, 01:59 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasv11
Yes! It does look like the front bar has been installed upside down or left to right incorrectly.
The reason I brought this up is because this is the third time I've seen/heard of someone doing this on their STi. I have the Progress bar installed exactly the way the OEM bar is installed, with the loops down, not up as in the pictures above. And because my car is also significantly lowered, the Progress bar can only be set to full stiff since it already "slightly" rubs against the lower A arm (front). I can here it rub during heavy braking - but it is pretty slight and doesn't occur each time. My concern here is obvious: if I can flip the bar without any repercussions, it may make the fit more suitable for the lowered vehicle. Or maybe the Progress bars just have a fitment issue on the 05 STi's that I don't know about.

Can anyone give an informed opinion as to what the repercussions/affects would be if the front sway bar was flipped? The moments on the beam would essentially be the same, but directions would be different - that is my concern. But since the moment of inertia of the bar is the same in both directions - no real issues would be expected. Correct?

Also, does anyone know if flipping the bar would cause the bar to hit something else?


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Old 11-20-2006, 09:00 AM   #17
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If the bar is like a stock bar (and certainly appears to be in the pictures) then it is both upside down AND left to right incorrectly. As mentioned this should not have an effect on the performance of the bar; the concern would be with it hitting something else.

Here's a picture of an aftermarket (Hotchkis) swaybar on my car:

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Old 12-17-2006, 05:08 AM   #18
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great write-up man...i will be installing my whitelines today!
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Old 12-17-2006, 05:24 AM   #19
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Very thorough, thanks!
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Old 01-01-2007, 10:51 AM   #20
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Is there a reason the Worx bracket drops the sway bar so freakin much?
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Old 01-07-2007, 09:13 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk rex
Is there a reason the Worx bracket drops the sway bar so freakin much?
I would think that having fewer bends in the bar would make for a more rigid bar overall.
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Old 04-01-2007, 09:57 AM   #22
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Default Torque values and front Bar clearance.

I installed my 27mm adj whiteline bar up front and when I was putting everything back together I had some questions about the torque values in the manual.

On the subframe the manual lists
M8 @ 25ft-lbs
M10 @ 52ft-lbs
M12 @ 41ft-lbs

Does this seem off that the larger bolts would not receive the most torque? I don't doubt that the M10 can handle 52ft-lbs, but it seemed odd to me that the larger bolts wouldn't be speced as having the most torque.

Additionally for the Jack up plate it calls out 52ft-lbs for the small bolts (T9)! (12mm socket). Granted these were difficult to remove and they are indicated as being grade 11. But when I was trying to get to 52ft-lbs the torque stopped increasing and the bolt kept spinning. I decided that this would be a good place to stop before something bad happened. Is this an error or could someone offer an explanation please.


Finally the front bar seems really close to the crossmember and steering rack components. Any one have clearance issues with the 27mm whitline adjustable bar? (B/XSF36XXZ) 2005 STi
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Old 04-01-2007, 10:41 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doggyollie
Additionally for the Jack up plate it calls out 52ft-lbs for the small bolts (T9)! (12mm socket). Granted these were difficult to remove and they are indicated as being grade 11. But when I was trying to get to 52ft-lbs the torque stopped increasing and the bolt kept spinning. I decided that this would be a good place to stop before something bad happened.
dang, I had the same problem and was questioning the torque specs for that jack up plate. The one on the passenger-side, towards the rear, had that same issue, the bolt spun as I tried to reach 52 ft-lbs. I just stopped turning that one, but it seems a bit excessive.

The other one next to it was secure at 52 ft-lbs, but yeah, I think that's too high.

Looking at that pic, is that STi specific, and what year? I have an '05, and I don't recall having piece "(16)" over the jacking plate.

Last edited by Lang : 04-01-2007 at 10:44 AM.
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:19 AM   #24
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Piece 16 is for WRXs, STis use piece 33 instead. This is taken from the 05 manual.

I torqued them to about 35ft-lbs and called it good.

Last edited by doggyollie : 04-01-2007 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 04-12-2007, 12:02 PM   #25
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For the Cusco Sway bars, do you need to take off the stock sway bar mounts? i.e step 5?
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Old 05-17-2007, 08:42 PM   #26
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Default Re: Worx Tuning Sway Bar Install How-To

Installed my Whiteline front and rear sways last night--thanks for the install how-to. Only thing different I did was NOT removing the black box on the rear passenger side. I used a small 12mm socket wrench and was able to reach the bushing mounts just fine.
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Old 05-18-2007, 09:56 AM   #27
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Default Re: Worx Tuning Sway Bar Install How-To

Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmithjr732
Installed my Whiteline front and rear sways last night--thanks for the install how-to. Only thing different I did was NOT removing the black box on the rear passenger side. I used a small 12mm socket wrench and was able to reach the bushing mounts just fine.
Did you use your stock mounts for both front and rear?
Any issues installing on the '07?
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Old 05-19-2007, 05:24 PM   #28
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Default Re: Worx Tuning Sway Bar Install How-To

Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmithjr732
Installed my Whiteline front and rear sways last night--thanks for the install how-to. Only thing different I did was NOT removing the black box on the rear passenger side. I used a small 12mm socket wrench and was able to reach the bushing mounts just fine.
Same here, swivel sockets FTW. Or maybe the design has changed on the 06+? I could not see why anyone would have taken the box off when I was looking under my car.

I also removed the subframe...it sounds like it's a hassle but really it's like 10 bolts and made it so the FSB drops straight down, new one lifts right up. It also helps if you have a nice 3/8 or 1/2" cordless impact gun...

Couple things I suggest from my install:

Make sure you install the FSB with the ends going under the tie rods...originally I put mine in upside down because I didn't bother the advise of "note the factory bar's orientation." Same with the endlinks, I replaced mine and had to look at pictures of multiple how-to's to make sure I was bolting it up correctly. Finished installed pics of my Whiteline's with KB endlinks here: Whiteline BIG bars with Kartboy Endlinks installed - 2006 STi

-Marcus
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Old 07-21-2007, 04:34 PM   #29
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Default Re: Worx Tuning Sway Bar Install How-To

Quote:
Originally Posted by matter-of-time
Did you use your stock mounts for both front and rear?
Any issues installing on the '07?
Yes, I used the stock mounts. I think I stripped one of the bolts though. Taking off the subframe to have a look at the passenger side mount today.
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Old 07-22-2007, 01:02 AM   #30
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Default Re: Worx Tuning Sway Bar Install How-To

Update: I took off the subframe and checked the sway bar mounts. Just as I thought, one of the bolts (passenger side bolt, not nut) was installed but not tight. It was stuck in the welded-on nut and I couldn't get it out. Just kept spinning when I would loosen or tighten it.

Solution was to get a mating nut and install it on top of the welded-on nut. I tightened them down and was good to go. I don't plan to take off the sways anytime soon, so this works for me.

While I was doing that, I decided to take off my Kartboy endlinks for the front. I was getting some clunk sounds from the front and they "may" have been the culprit. I suspect it was most likely the loose bolt (99% confident), but I like the OEM spherical design. KB links are still on the back, but they may come off as well.

With this change, my clunking and popping sounds appear to be gone. Car feels great.


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